Brake job

Step 6 Remove pads

Now withdraw the pads, one at a time, from the back of the caliper.

Comments

[Johnny_B_Good]

I just finished mine and this instruction was great. For clarification I am adding one additional photo that shows the difference between the caliper mounting bolts framed in red (dont need to be touched) and the caliper slide bolts (with the rubber protectors) highlighted with a yellow border in the new photo. You will see what part of the caliper sort of underneath slides on these two bolts. Mine didn't slide very easily but they did slide.

[miamor]

(Here I'll improve on the Aug 6 details so I deleted those to avoid duplication confusion)
DESCRIPTION:
It's been a while, but where I wrote, "In fact, one of the bolts was finger loose! But the bushings..."
I meant those 2 bolts holding caliper to car, which Johnny-B now shows in Yellow. They each have rubber boots to keep the corrosive effect of water out, but it gets in. The top one is a metal-to-metal bearing, the bottom is metal-to-rubber. But both need to be greased. I just checked on mine after 2 years. They are still lubed ok on top pin, but dry on lower one. Need to ask Ford what grease they use here. Someone....?
DISASSEMBLY:
Remove the bolts but leave caliper connected to brake line hose. Hang it with wire, and pull spring clip off hose to allow even more free movement. Once caliper is loose and bolts are out, you'll see the bushings that the bolts went through (in caliper). That caliper was supposed to be sliding on these! But you may need to pull*do not* pound (DAMHIK) those bushings out of caliper if they corroded in place. Hereafter I'll call it a "pin" like Ford does.

See my photo, it shows the caliper hanging off wire, 2 pin faces, and red anti-squeel on the casting where inner pad rests.

There is enough "pin" exposed if you push boot down to grab it with channel locks. Whatever you do, don't scuff up the pin where it slides into caliper. Only scuff up the ends which remain exposed outside bearing surface.
CLEAN & ASSEMBLE:
Boots won't remove nor install while pin is still inside. You'll want to only pull the 2 top ones for cleaning, leave the bottom one alone. It's one long boot all the way through caliper. Just clean its inside surface.

To pull top boots: pull out pin first. Then 2 boots. Clean, apply BRAKE GREASE to pin and bore. Insert 1 boot, insert pin, push too far until it clears groove for other boot, insert 2nd boot, now retract pin into it. You'll now see the way boot is retained in its groove by the pin.

Both pins do need grease, so pull lower pin. Clean, apply BRAKE GREASE to lower pin and inside surface of lower boot, insert pin. I think this boot accepts much more grease than the tight clearance upper bore. It dries out if you don't generously grease it. I tried injecting more grease than on upper pin.
FINISH-UP
After bolt onto car (30 Lb-ft) push and pull the caliper, you'll see it slide as long as pads aren't tight against rotor. Make sure before you leave that all the boots are snapped into the groove on end of pin. It should stay dirt and water tight for a couple years. And put the clip back onto hose.

[miamor]

This is a floating caliper
Right about now you should be pulling the 2 -14mm bolts to grease the bushings. If you don't, you will have a stationary, sticking assembly. I know, I just did mine, and it was absolutely stuck. In fact, one of the bolts was finger loose! But the bushings where both really stuck in there with crusty 'ol grease/dirt goop.

[Johnny_B_Good]

(removed by author or community request)

[Johnny_B_Good]

See my comment on Aug 18th.