I've been into steampunk for a few years now and it has pushed me to try out different skills such as leather working and metalsmithing. I wanted to add a more steampunk look to my outfit and I did not have a good pouch at the time, so I endeavored to make one. I had a very limited knowledge of metal working when I made this, and while making it, I did not take the best photos for a step by step, so bare with me, some of my images are photoshopped.
So, in this instructable, I'll try to tell you how to make a metal pouch you can wear on your belt and hold a few essentials.
A sheet of 20 gauge brass. It needs to be at least 20x20 inches. (if you would like to use a thicker or thinner gauge, that is fine as well)
Paint thinner (about 2 cups)
At least 10 leather rivets for the leather and the lock. More if you choose to rivet the metal together.
A 10x10 sheet of leather. It needs to be a thick sort use for tooling leather, the pouch is heavy and thinner leather or fabric might not hold it.
Leather dye, in whatever color you'd like.
A small metal tube at least 6 inches long. The thickness will depend on how big you make your hinge
2 brass round head nails. These need to fit snuggly into your metal tube.
I used this turn lock from Tandy leather, but with tweaking, you cold use any locking clasp you'd like (http://www.tandyleatherfactory.com/en-usd/product/turn-lock-bag-clasps-1307-504.aspx)
(Optional) Poster board, tape, and a pencil, for making a paper mock up before cutting into metal (Highly recommended)
Clear spray paint. Glossy or matte will depend on your preference.
Masking or painters tape
Jewelers saw and blades for cutting metal details
I used a jump shear to cut my metal, which was available to me, but this is obviously not a normal household piece of equipment. You'll need a way to cut out your large pieces. A jewelers saw will work, but it is slower.
A sheet metal bender. Once again, this is not something I would think a normal household would have. I would think you could use a vice and a hammer to bend the metal. You will need to bend some pieces at a 90 degree angle.
Pliers, preferably those without teeth, as they might scratch the metal.
If you have an anvil, that's awesome, but a flat piece of granite will also work, or even a sturdy table. This is for setting rivets and bending metal.
A drill press or a hand held drill.
Drill bits made to drill metal.
A center punch, to mark your holes you will drill, which prevents the drill bit from 'walking'. A nail and hammer can be used instead of this. This just punches a tiny dent where you want your hole to be drilled and holds the drill bit in place while drilling.
Metal files, to fine tune your metal after cutting it with your jewelers saw and to file down burs from the drill.
Sand paper and polishing tools.
Leather cutting supplies, a box knife will work fine.
Leather rivet setting tools
Scraps of wood, this will go under the metal as you drill holes into it. I think I used a 2x4 and a few 1x4s.
Painters face mask (don't breathe in the metal dust while sawing)
Please be safe when making this. The metal can be sharp, and there are a number of sharp tools that you could hurt yourself with. If you have access to machinery like the drills, jump shear, or metal bender, please do not use them unless you feel safe doing so. It's always a good idea to have someone with you to help as well. Even the tiny jewelers blade can cut you if you are not careful.
Step 1: Cutting out your pieces
I made mine out of 20 gauge brass, but you could go up or down a few gauges if you'd like. The finished pouch will be 5.5 inches wide by 5.75 tall, and 2 inches deep. The front plate is the exact size of the pouch, but the back plate will have a hinge cut out of it on top, so it is taller than the front. The lid will also have a hinge cut into it, so it is cut taller than it will be when finished. The lid flaps were hastily added, so feel free to make your own pattern. If you make a great paper mock up and get your pattern down perfect, you may be able to avoid the gap that I had and eliminate the flaps all together.
The side piece will wrap around the sides and bottom of the box. It is cut 3 inches tall, because we will fold the top and bottom edge over by 1/2 an inch. 18 inches is an arbitrary number, we will cut it down to fit flush with the front plate in a bit (I believe my side plate is about 16 inches when finished, but it's better to be too long than too short)
I used a jump shear to cut my brass sheet into rectangles, and then rounded the bottoms off by using a jewelers saw. (If you have photoshop, using the rounded rectangle tool set to 50 px radius gets you the same roundness I have.) I printed the shape, then traced the round edges with a pencil and cut them out. I believe I cut the entire lid flaps out with a jewelers saw. You could use a jewelers saw to cut out all of the pieces, and while this will take some time, it gets the job done. If this is your first time using a jewelers saw, you may break a ton of blades. I know I did, it takes a lot of practice to not snap them.
So, cut out these shapes, with your safety goggles on of course!