Brazing Non-Ferrous Metals

video Brazing Non-Ferrous Metals

This is meant to be a fast demonstration so that viewers can get a sense of what the process looks like. The written word doesn't always capture the nuance involved like how red will the metal glow or how 'angry' the torch should sound.

I Joined two pieces of copper sheet using Stay-Silv 5 solder, Stay-Silv flux, and a MAPP torch. Cheap supplies, cheap tools, not a complex process. The solder and flux can be bought at any welding supply.

The solder melts at about 1600 degrees and is one of the hottest ranges I have worked with. Even so I find it easier to work with than other silver-solders with lower melting points and much easier than working with soft solder. The Stay-Silv 5 in particular is very good at bridging gaps and filling recesses.

wgriffith says: Dec 21, 2012. 11:28 PM

What you are doing is soldering not Brazing. Soldering is done at 350 to 600 degrees with solder, Brazing is done at 1100 to 1500 degrees with a brass rod. Other than that it was a nice instructable.

ArtificerMade (author) says: Dec 22, 2012. 9:25 AM

Thank you for your comment. If you had actually watched the tutorial you would know that the solder I use melts here at 1500F and is a brazing alloy of 92% copper, 5% silver, and 3% phosphor.

What you are describing is the difference between 'soft-soldering' and 'hard-soldering' (or brazing). Soft soldering uses an alloy that is primarily tin and/or lead which melts at a very low temperature (relatively speaking).

There is actually nothing happening to the metal that is different in soft-soldering and hard-soldering/brazing it just happens at a lower temp when using a tin/lead alloy brazing filler. If you are in the south-east Miochigan area and are interested in a refresher course I'm putting together a series of workshops that lead up to the 'Up in the Aether Convention', a Steampunk event in May.

drewgrey says: Feb 5, 2012. 9:38 AM

What kind of flux do you use?

ArtificerMade (author) says: Feb 5, 2012. 11:42 AM

I mention in the text that Iam using Stay-Silv flux. If you buy stay-silv solder or Safety-Silv 45 or 56 then they will have the stay-silv flux there as well. It's not expensive and works very well.

Keep in mind, that if you are using the Stay-Silv 5 solder I mention in the video, or any Phosphor bearing solder, then you will not need to flux the work as long as you are joining copper to copper.

Alternatively, the powdered borax you get in the laundry detergent aisle of the grocery store is an excellent flux for this kind of work. Make a small pile of the stuf and sprinkle a few drops of water. Fish out the clump and smush a small bit against the joint.

Hope that helps.