Step 1: Supplies
ScrapGutted (Flatline) Paracord
Mini Needle Nose Pliers
Side release buckle
Swivel Snap Hook
And of course the Paracord in the colors you would like
Step 2: Gutting the Paracord
I then gutted the paracord to make it flat. To gut the cord and make flat, you need to pull out the inner strands, the longer the paracord the more work it is to pull out.
To prevent fraying you want to fuse the ends with either a hot knife, or my preference a lighter, just be careful because the ends will be hot and could potentially burn you. (I how ever do mold the ends carefully to make them neat/clean depending on the project.)
**NOTE:If you do not intend to use a breakaway connector, you will not need 2 of each, just 1 of each and double the length I used or longer**
**NOTE:It will depend on your preference to gut it or not, I just found it to be narrower and to me looked a little better for this project.**
Step 3: Neck Part of the Lanyard
The repeat the following until the desired length. There are 2 pictures for each part, I labeled the 2nd one in each set from A-D.
1. Take D and wrap it around A.
2. Now take B and wrapping it around D. Try to keep the braid tight as you go
3. Next wrap C around B.
4. Then wrap A around C.
(You may notice that the next strand to wrap around previous one will be higher then the rest)
It is also easier once you get the hang of it to keep them tight, I found it helped to practice with scrap pieces.
Step 4: Adding on the Connector and Finnishing One Side
***NOTE: If you are not using a connector you will only need a section of this Step, the part attaching the connector to the first half and finishing.***
Since the holes are small on the connector, I used scrap gutted cord to function as a loop.
First cut 2 sections about 1.5 inches of cord.
Fuse the ends.
Then tie a over hand know about half way down, if you want you can adjust it back and fourth before you tighen it up completely, and try to make the know flat.
I found that using a bobby pin as a needle was easier to get it through the hole in the connector.
Pull the cord through and much as possible, as you can see in 2 of the pictures I used the pliers to get the know in all the way.
If there is excess trim, it off and fuse it, be careful not to warm/heat up the connector, you will melt it.
Repeat for the other half of the connector to use it ready for later.
Now finishing the first half of the neck (or if no connector is used)
Pass two of the working ends through one side of the loop (or the buckle if no connector is used).
Start working them back along the pattern once or twice(I used the pliers but you can use a paper clip or similar hook to help weave along the pattern).
Pass the remaining 2 working ends through the other side of the loop, and begin working them back along the pattern.
Work each of the ends to similar distances, I worked them until they were about 1.5 inches from the connector.
Trim the ends back almost flush, but leave enough so that you can carefully fuse the ends. When fuseing try not to heat them up to much, you do not want to start melting the braid.
Step 5: 2nd Half of the Neck Part
This step is similar to step 3. I wanted the 2 halves to mirror each other.
In order to have two mirrored sections I swapped the 2 colors around as you can see in the pictures.
I also swapped the braid as well, so instead of starting with the right strand I started with the left. The pattern is the same. If needed refer to step 3.
Work the pattern until the same length as the other half.
I found binder clips worked great to help hold the strands in place if I need to set the project down or to prep the next step.
Use the same instructions as in step 4 and add on the 2nd connector, and finish off the working ends.
Step 6: Base of the Bottom Part of the Lanyard (Solomon Bar)
For the bottom part I decided to use a Crisscrossed Solomon Bar. (A great resource was http://www.fusionknots.com/graphics/gallery/knots/Crisscrossed%20Solomon%20Bar.html)
It starts with a Soloman Bar as a base (I used approximately a 29 inch piece), I show the crisscrossed part in the next step.
There are also many instructions for the bar, so I decided not bore you and repeat it again.
What I would like to note is finishing it off. Once the bar is complete bring the running ends around and weave or work them on the backside of the project to hide the ends, shown in the pctures. You only need to hide about an inch for the project to stay tight.
Step 7: Adding the Crisscross and 2 Stripes.
Start by creating an opening and threading the 2nd color half way. (I didn't note the length, since I was using a odd/scrap piece)
Then on the opposite side do the same thing.
You will next weave the strand around with one end going laterally across and the other end angled down. Continue this process until the desired length or the whole bar. Bring the running ends around to the back and tuck underneath for now.
For the stripes I used about 5 inches of each and gutted both.
What you will need to do is start is center one of the pieces on the project and tuck a end on the backside of the bar, underneath the crisscross. Move back to the front and then weave the 3rd color underneath the crisscross. (I chose to just weave the 3rd and 4th colors under the angles.)
When you reach the end wrap the 3rd color to the back and tuck underneath the backside of the crisscross to hold it.
Repeat what what just done with a 4th color if so desired.
Once you are finished tucking the ends underneath trim the end almost flush, and very carefully fuse.