Originally I was going to just buy a few professionally made break away bottles, but I had sticker shock and figured I could just make them myself.
Here is a popular supplier of all things break away glass.
http://www.alfonsosbreakawayglass.com/shop.php
Here is a "Budweiser" bottle
http://www.alfonsosbreakawayglass.com/shop.php?main=Glass&sub=Bottles&subsub=Beer+Bottles
$16.00 each!
But wait how much for shipping?
1 #108 BROWN LONG NECK BEER BOTTLE $16
PACKAGING CHARGE $10
SUBTOTAL: $26
SALES TAX: $2.15
TOTAL: $28.15
Almost $30.00 for 1 bottle!
However you can order up to 4 bottles for the same shipping/packaging price so maybe closer to $20.00 But they don't guarantee the bottles after the package has left their hands and that it will make it in one piece.
So that wasn't the route I was going to take and instead started researching how break away glass was made. After emailing a few people I learned that professionals use a special type of resin instead of "sugar glass". Although either will work.
I recommend watching this video by "Indy Mogul" to get a feel for what's being done. He uses sugar glass but the techniques work just the same for resin. Candy glass is also still a cheaper route to go.
http://youtube.com/watch?v=GqkSDkHOots&feature=related
Materials:
1 dedicated cooking pot ( I used a dollar store pan)
1 dedicated candy thermometer
Break Away glass resin
Resin dye (I used brown, comes in a 2oz bottle)
Silicone (tin or platinum cured, don't need a lot, about 6 lbs total)
mold release spray ( there are other options explained later)
foamcore/legos to build the mold (I used foamcore with a glue gun)
glue gun
a timer
gloves
rubber bands
bernzomatic/igniter
measuring cup
I decided to try tin-cure silicone, it's a little bit cheaper than platinum cure and works just the same. It however doesn't last as long as platinum cured.
I purchased the silicone and brown dye from Smooth-On:
http://www.smoothonsecure.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=278_279_281_80&products_id=392&osCsid=45268e37fd4d3661fda645fbed0b87db
The brown dye is translucent and does a real good job of simulating brown beer bottle glass.
http://www.smoothonsecure.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=291_270_28&products_id=541&osCsid=c588d75e90bc12b5c0d34e73fb8e80a3
The resin i used had a generic name of "break away bottle blend"
It's a combination of Piccolastic and Piccotex which are also generic names. Piccolastic is more elastic while piccotex is more brittle. They are all reusable, in the sense that after you break them or if a mold didn't come out perfect you can remelt them. I don't know about how green recyclable they are though. And definitely not edible, very nasty, like a mouth full of sand.
I ordered from a place called "Special Effect Supply Corporation", has a family-run feel, based out of Utah. However I could have saved a lot more money if I had bought locally. On the Smooth-On website I found a distributor for their products that also carried the "break away glass" resin.
Check out a local distributor for smooth on products, chances are they will have the Break away glass resin (Piccolastic/Piccotex) products as well.
http://www.smooth-on.com/distrbtr-2.htm
Here is the resin. One can buy in different quantities. (Buy locally though)
http://www.fxsupply.com/catalog/index.php?cPath=152
I also ordered the DVD on break away bottles. (PM me if you want to see it)
http://www.fxsupply.com/videos/videos.html
Also ordered mold release spray:
http://www.smoothonsecure.com/store/index.php?cPath=278_279_282_304&osCsid=30362f3d080392f208f38ec6c450817f
Here is where I should have ordered the materials. They had everything I needed and cheaper.
http://www.artstuf.com/
However not everything is listed on the website.
They are in fact cheaper than Smooth-On. Smooth-On charges more to encourage it's customer to shop locally.
Now to construct the mold...
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Construct your mold
The DVD I bought utilized "fixatropics", basically it's stuff you add to silicone to make it thicker. You can brush it on to vertical surfaces and it won't run. Regular silicone is runny like honey. If you had the thickener it'll hold it shape like whip cream but it's still thick like honey. Can build it up or brush it on and it will "defy gravity".
Here is a link more about silicone.
hhttp://www.bnglifecasting.com/diy/skin_mold/index.html
The dvd approach also used dental grade hyrdocal as a mother mold. Hydrocal is like plaster of paris. With a mother mold you have a thin innner silicone mold that is encased in the thicker supporting hyrdocal.
The square block mold uses more silicone but it's simplied in a way. The squareness and thickness of the silicone provides support doing away with the mother mold/ And you don't have to worry about fixatropics.
Just briefly I'll describe my mold making in this project. I glued a Budweiser beer bottle to foamcore to secure it. Then built up clay an inch of clay all the way around the bottle stopping at the parting line in the Budweiser bottle. I glued on a plastic bottle top to the inside of the Budweiser bottle. This is the sprue. It will make mold a funnel into the silicone so you can pour in resin in later. I then created keys or registration marks. This will align your silicone mold halves. Then a foam core wall around the entire thing. Originally I built a square box but then realized I wouldn't have enough silicone so I tapered off the top of the bottle.
Mix the silicone thoroughly and in the right amounts. Smooth-Ons Ooo-Moo 25 is nice because it has equal parts, measuring is not necessary. However I must stress mixing thoroughly, if you don't your silicone will fail. It won't ever set. Mix the sides of the mixing pot and then do it again.
After allowing the silicone to dry I then removed the clay on the bottom and poured silicone on the bottom side.
I used two orders of the trial size kits of Smooth-On OooMoo 25.
http://www.smoothonsecure.com/store/product_info.php?cPath=278_279_281_80&products_id=392&osCsid=269879e7f2cdded1956c24f07d091174
$22.00 each, times two, $44 bucks total + $10 shipping, $54.00 total shipped)
($18.00 each, times two, $36 bucks total at your local distributor and save on shipping too!)
The 25 refers to the durometer. The hardness of the silicone.
I had used a silicone with a 40 durometer for the Han Solo in carbonite chocolate bar. It was a much harder silicone. The 25 is much softer and I imagined it helped to remove the fragile resin bottles. Something to take in consideration. Are you pulling out cement or egg shells out of your molds? The resin bottles when dry will be like egg shells.
| 1-40 of 44 | Next » |
Madrias357 says:
Feb 27, 2009. 7:26 PMReply
killerjackalope says:
Jan 19, 2008. 12:31 AMReply
T3h_Muffinator says:
Jan 1, 2008. 12:17 PMReply
T3h_Muffinator says:
Jan 1, 2008. 3:04 PMReply| 1-40 of 44 | Next » |
























Not Nice





































![[Video] Large Scale Mold Making - Making the Negative](http://cdn.instructables.com/FS0/BHXH/FWWEZTBB5X2/FS0BHXHFWWEZTBB5X2.SQUARE.jpg)



Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »



