I got into blacksmithing recently and my forge design seems somewhat unique so I figured I'd share it. I am currently burning charcoal but it might work with other fuels. It seems to heat metal just fine. The forge does not require cement and is about as simple as they come.

Step 1: Materials

1. At least 8 fire bricks (fire bricks are different than normal brick in that they are more resistant to heat and have more of a clay-like texture)

2. Shop-Vac (or similar appliance) with hose

3. Steel Pipe (length and width don't matter that much as long as it is close to as wide as the vacuum hose and is at least 3ft long to prevent damage to the vacuum)

4. 7ft Wire

5. Duct Tape

Step 2: Lay the Bricks

Start with a base of 1x3x2 bricks if you want it elevated (you will need 6 more bricks for this). the other steps are near impossible to explain so just follow the pictures. I use a broken cinderblock for the lid because it gives me a bit to grab on to however a normal brick would work just fine.

Step 3: Finishing Steps

Duct tape the hose to the pipe. Then prop the pipe up with something (like extra bricks) so that the end is facing the opening on whichever side of the forge that you designate as the back. Wrap the wire around the top 4 bricks and tighten it as much as you can. That's about it. The opening on the top is used to load charcoal/whatever fuel you're using.

Step 4: Suggestions?

I'd love to improve my design so if anyone reading this has any suggestions please post them in the comments section.

I dunno, I think tis is kinda messy. but whatever works. won't work for any big projects.
<p>Very true but it's still better than some forges I've seen. I've since upgraded to more of a trough style forge that works much better and can handle larger pieces. This one could still heat railroad spike with no issue within a few minutes and it didn't cost me a thing. I'm working on a new design for a waste oil forge because I'm tired of burning through so many charcoal.</p>
No problem. I have a friend who built his forge using cinder blocks. His was a very decent size and worked quite nicely. If you are able to incorporate that into your forge, it might help structurally and allow you to also make it a bit bigger allowing the &quot;pit&quot; to also grow a bit as well possibly.
<p>My original forge used cinderblocks (actually it was pretty much just a cinderblock with a hairdryer stuck in it). Unfortunately, after a couple of hours it broke into pieces from the heat. Until it broke, the cinderblock was excellent so I have to figure out how to make something similar to the cinderblock design but with firebrick.</p>
Have you tried making the &quot;pit/mouth&quot; bigger and tried raising up the forge up some?
<p>I have seen the type of forge where the air is pumped up through the bottom and tried to make one. My designs have never worked but I think I they could if I had more bricks and some kind of metal grate. The main benefit of a forge like this is that the dust and impurities fall out through the grate. In my forge they just build up. As far as making the &quot;pit&quot; bigger I've tried but I couldn't find a brick placement that would stay together. I'd raise it a bit but I don't have any more bricks. Thanks for the suggestions.</p>
I have my metal working merit badge and from taking the class saw some awesome stuff and made some really cool things. One kind of forge I've seen in class and from their people using it, it was raised off the ground and the air was pushed from the bottom to the top. Of course it is a more dangerous forge, just as effective.
<p>I'm interested in knowing where the fire goes as well as whatever piece your are heating in the forge. </p>
<p>by &quot;where the fire goes&quot; do you mean where the flame comes out or where you burn the charcoal? Anyway, I've heated 1/8 inch round stock steel as well as 1/4 inch rebar and a railroad spike.</p>

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