One day I was driving our 2001 Buick Century Custom, and I noticed that the odometer wasn't lit up. At first I thought that a bulb was out, but this instrument panel cluster (IPC) is completely digital, so there are no bulbs in those locations. The odometer/tripometer is all LED segment displays. It wasn't until later I noticed that the transmission indicator was also unlit. This can be dangerous if you think you are in park and are actually in reverse and let off of the brake. My wife and I kind of just dealt with the absence of indicators for a few months until I finally got around to fixing it.

Since there was no erratic behavior of any sort, I figured this was just a faulty discrete component somewhere and set out to look for it. If certain parts of your IPC are not illuminated when they should be, there is a good chance that this is what's wrong with it. I have found lots of people who had or are having the exact same issue, and this procedure fixed them all!

Step 1: Helpful Tools

While this isn't a precise list of what you may need, it should get you started on the right track. 

To remove and open the instrument panel cluster I used:
Socket Set with Extension - Primarily a 7mm Socket
Battery Terminal Wrench - Equivalent to a 1/4" socket in most cases
Auto Carpet Plug Puller - Pliers and a flat head screwdriver should work as well
Flat head screwdriver

To fix the IPC I used:
Soldering iron and solder
Alcohol wipes
4 x 150 ohm resistors
Hello I recently replaced my stock radio with an after market one. It was working fine (I drove it at night) and when Monday rolled around and I headed to work in day light hours it went completely dead after about five minutes. There was a correlation between it dying and my day dash lights clicking on (which doesn't happen as soon as I start driving but approximately 5 minutes in). The next day I tried the drive with my headlights on and the stereo remained on even after the automatic clicking on of the dash lights. I turn them off and the stereo immediately dies. What is going on? The stereo was wired correctly. Everything on it works when it has power but it's as if it's surging or having power redirected when the dash lights come on. Even after it has died if I turn on the headlights it will not come back on until at least an hour has passed.
<p>Well, this doesn't have anything to do with the instrument panel cluster, but I have done a bit of work with stereos and other auto wiring harnesses.</p><p>Who installed the stereo? How do you know it is wired correctly?</p><p>Stereos typically need three power connections: Always On 12V (essentially, straight from the battery with an inline fuse), Accessory (12V Only when key is on), and Ground (to the car chassis). There is absolutely no reason any sort of &quot;power surges&quot; or &quot;redirects&quot; would take place if it is wired correctly, unless you also installed a high power amplifier or something else that the alternator cannot generate enough current to keep running. Given that your radio works with the headlights (which will draw significantly more power than the radio does), I doubt that is happening.</p><p>In the harness that connects the stereo to your speakers and accessories, there is also typically a wire that goes to your dash lights. This is for the illumination of the stereo display to change with your dash light brightness. In my opinion, this wire is not connected to the right thing, so when your dash lights kick on, the stereo is shutting off as a safety precaution. Sometimes electronic devices have a component that act like a circuit breaker and trips when too much current passes (called an MCB). They will automatically reset after so often (so you don't have to do it manually like the breaker panel in a home).</p><p>In my opinion, either the stereo is installed incorrectly, or you have some other short in a wiring harness. I once had a cluster of wires overheat and fuse together, but this completely drained my battery overnight.</p>
I was the one who installed the stereo and although it's something I've never attempted before I did do my homework and was overly cautious. The stereo has no option to dim the lights on the unit. All wires were put to their corresponding colours. I did not ground the black to the car as had been suggested because there was nothing but a flat back panel made of metal and it was too far for the wires to stretch. The original stereo was not grounded to the body so I was under the assumption it would be fine. <br>The dash lights clicking on after driving for a short distance was concerning but the car seems generally happy and has not exploded thus far. My battery has not drained enough for me to not start the car and the stereo has been in for two weeks (I've just run out of time to rip it all out again). I'm thinking the accessory (red wire) is correct and fuels the stereo and then my alternator takes over and the yellow constant isn't doing anything at all. I don't understand how my headlights could be tied into the whole contraption. The only wires I used were from the previous deck. Unless some how there was a manufacturers defect in the placement of the wires? But then one would think I would be missing a channel/speaker and everything works...when it has power. I feel like if I were to rip it out I would rewire it all the same because I was so careful the first time. I just don't get it.
<p>Electrical issues can be confusing...<br><br>It might help to know the year and model car you have, and more importantly, the brand and product number of the installed stereo.<br><br>The stereo absolutely MUST be grounded. That doesn't mean you have to ground the metal stereo chassis to the car chassis, but there MUST be a ground connection to the car chassis somewhere. Sometimes it's in a separate harness with accessory and and constant 12V, sometimes it's in the harness with the speaker wires.<br><br>The stereo wire colors are not a standard. You cannot just go by those alone. Most reputable brands stick to similar things, but not always - it's a bit of a mess. Consult the manual on what the wires actually do, and if you used the receiver harness already in the car, those colors usually are standard (and found on the internet).<br><br>How did you connect the stereo wires to the car wire harness? Solder? Crimp tubes? Twist them together and tape over them (I've seen people do this enough to warrant me asking...)? The antenna connection is usually just a plug/jack (like a bigger headphone jack).<br><br>As for the power, typically, it is a red wire that is &quot;switched power&quot; so it is only on when your key is on (also called accessory power). This is what actually powers the stereo. The constant power is typically a yellow wire, and it is wired to a constant (fused) power source and keeps your radio from losing its settings (time, favorite stations, etc - although, the auto industry is decades behind when it comes to this technology). You should take a volt meter and measure these power source.<br><br>Have the dash lights always turned on a while after you start the car? That's common in a lot of cars, but I want to make sure it isn't a new thing.<br><br>Without me able to physically inspect things, there isn't much else I can do for you. If can double check the stereo manual for connections, but that's about it. It might be time to take it into a car audio shop (that does installations) for help. If it really is some other external power issue, it needs to be taken care of by a professional.</p>
<p>Thanks for sharing, I used this link to explore my 2000 Buick Century Custom odometer, and the need for repair was identical to yours. However, isn't there always, I soldered eight 8 inch wires to each pair of resistor contacts and soldered each pair to a properly rated potentiometer. After I reassembled the housing with the wires sticking out, soldered to each pot, I tucked them in the more than enough room available behind the instrument cluster.</p><p> I didn't have the 150 ohm resistors, which I would have really appreciated, so I adjusted the dial to 150 ohm, soldered them in and have 142840 miles again. (Don't worry, the miles keep on rolling even though you can't see them). Thanks again.</p>
<p>No problem. I'm a little confused about this one statement you made...</p><blockquote>However, isn't there always, [...]</blockquote><p>I cannot really recommend doing what you did, but it should work at least for a little while. If you used wire leads to potentiometers, I do hope you insulated the contacts so they don't short anything. Also, I'd recommend putting hot glue or something similar on the pots to keep them from spinning due to vibration. I have no idea what will happen if that resistance goes to 0 or the max of your pots, but I doubt it would be good.<br><br>Finding a Radioshack with parts can be a PIA any more, but you can always order resistors from a place like digikey.com for about $0.10 each, plus a few dollar for shipping, and get them in a few days.</p>
<p>The &quot;however,&quot; is the caveat. There's always something. The type of adjustable potentiometer I used was the long barrel, high turn to adjustment ratio. And surrounded by electrical tape so I kept the ability for them to short of a minimum. Hot glue would have been a nice touch.</p><p>Will see in about a week if it's going to hold up. With the outside temperature and the circuitry building up heat inside we'll see if it will last.</p>
My buick centery 2003 wont go from drive to park to i can start it ....ive tryed alot an cant find it ....does anyone know ?
<p>What? Try that question again, because I don't really know (at all) what you are asking...</p>
Before you try anything, try pressing the ODO/TRIP ODO BUTTON. I tried that first! Guess what, it reset the circuit and my display came back on without any disassembly or soldering!
<p>Nice tip. I've also had to reset the passenger door fuse block to get numerous notification lamps to turn off (when they shouldn't be on).<br><br>I actually did this, but it was no use. In my case, the resistors absolutely needed to be replaced.</p>
<p>Hi, I went through the steps here, got it all done, plugged it back in, and now the car will not start at all. Turn key, check eng light comes on, dings that key is in and turned to on/start position, but start isn't clicking or anything as I try to start it. Any ideas at all? </p><p>Thanks.</p>
<p>Well that's not good! The only reason this could affect the starting mechanism at all is if you messed up a sensor like the oil pressure. Then the car won't start as a safety precaution. Are you SURE you didn't touch anything else, and only replaced these particular faulty resistors?<br><br>What is your vehicle year, make, and model?</p><p>You probably need to find someone with an OBD-II reader to see if the car is giving you any diagnostic error codes. If you don't know what that means, then it's time to call in a professional... :(</p>
It's a 2001 Buick Century. I only replaced the 4 resistors in top corner, one had fallen off the board entirely. Can't get board to light up still and now having the issue of the car not cranking at all.<br>I don't have anyone with an OBD reader, and since it won't run I can't limp it to auto store. Might have to grab one myself .<br><br>Bought the car used a month ago to piece back together for a spare car, and seems to be turning into more of a project than I'd hoped for.
<p>Aside from double checking your work, there isn't much else I can suggest from here aside from ensuring your battery didn't get drained while you were working (this happened to J Scott above you). Sorry, and good luck.</p>
<p>Same problem as TimH156. Replaced the resistors, plugged it in, and the car won't start. Panel indicator lights light up and then go out as it should, but the blinker, which I accidentally turned on as you can imagine, wasn't blinking, and I tried both right and left indicators. I double checked my soldering and the panel, and can't see any damage on the panel. Like Tim, everything comes on when the key is turned on, but starter doesn't engage.</p>
<p>Problem solved. The blinkers were working very dim and slow, and the &quot;light came on over my head&quot; (pun intended) that I had battery problems the other day when I left my e-cig battery charger plugged in over night. I got a jump, and waa-laa, everything fired right up, including the odometer/shift indicator. It turns out I took a break pulling apart the dash, left the doors opened with all the lights on, and it was enough to weaken the battery to where it would light up the dash, but not start the car. Thank you! the fix itself was a lot easier than I could've ever imagined!</p>
<p>Didn't you read step 2: Don't get killed! You were supposed to disconnect the battery before starting! In any case, I'm glad you got it figured out. Sometimes it's the simple things...</p>
<p>great repair job.</p>
<p>Hi, I've got a real similar issue on my 2001 Regal, theres two digital displays in the cluster, one of them is absolutely dead and the other is wonky: sometimes its really dim, sometimes it's really bright, and other times I can control it with the dimmer switch, but often enough the dimmer switch does nothing for the digital displays only. I've got a buddy of mine at GM who's gonna give me the wiring diagram soon, but what's your take on this? do you think my issue lies with the resistors, will soldering some connections maybe help me with my dimmer switch situation ? do you think I'll need more than 4 resistors since I have two digital displays?</p>
<p>It's really impossible to know without having the schematics to see how things are hooked together. I'm not familiar with that model, but I'd imagine it's similar to the '01 Century. It could be a similar issue, but I cannot say that with certainty. I would probably just open it up to see if anything looks bad - these resistors were easily identifiable, just crumbling on the board. If it is a resistor issue, you can usually buy packs of 10 or so at Radio Shack (if you can find one that still sells parts, that is).<br><br>If you open it up and nothing looks wrong, then I'd either just learn to deal with it or buy a new one. Of course, if I was going to buy a new one anyway, I'd probably poke around a bit first without fear of damaging the original one. Just remember, you can't really drive without it... (you can, but it's not recommended)</p>
Thank you so much for showing this. I got one going again because of this.
Have you ever heard of ur headlights not working after making this repair? Not sure if it's a coincidence but I fixed my odometer with this repair now my headlights don't work
<p>No, sorry. Is that the only thing wrong? Are you sure you got the IPC connector plugged back in all the way?</p>
<p>This worked perfect. Dash came apart easier than I thought and the soldering was not too hard at all. The resistors were in OK condition but one of them was burnt our badly. This fix was great and the instructions spot on. Thank you.</p>
<p>Fantastic to hear.</p>
<p>Thanks a lot!!! It worked!!! </p>
I replaced the four resistors and it didn't cure the problem .I also replaced two others that were below the 4 and that didn't work either . does anybody have any suggestions?
I replaced the four resistors and it didn't cure the problem .I also replaced two others that were below the 4 and that didn't work either . does anybody have any suggestions?
<p>will 150 ohm 1 watt be to much to put in it?</p>
<p>That is fine. The wattage rating is how much power the resistor can safely handle. A higher value is fine - it will typically just cost more and be larger parts.</p>
<p>i took everything apart and there looks like a burnt mark in the bottom right corner of the digital display . does that mean its something other than the resistors? mine was very dim when i got the car and it was like that for months and all of a sudden there was no display at all</p>
<p>Possibly. It's hard to say. There are numerous components that could fail. This guide just explains how to replace this common point of failure.</p>
RadioShack only had 150 ohm 1/8 watt resistors. Will that work?
<p>I believe so. The original resistors on the board weren't marked with a power rating. I chose 1/4 watt as a safe guess. I presume 1/8 W would work OK, as I don't think these resistors need to handle much current.<br><br>It's hard to test, since plugging in the board will hide the resistors away. If they were exposed, you could just measure the voltage dropped across them to calculate the power, or even simply feel how much heat they are generating.</p>
Do you need solder experience to do this? I'm a novice but I really need to get this done
<p>You do need to be able to solder - there is no other way to reliably replace the resistors. The solder joints don't have to be perfect, but they do need to be good enough to last. If you can wiggle the resistors, the solder joint is bad.<br><br>There are plenty of 'ibles that talk about how to solder!</p>
<p>Does this procedure apply to a 2002 Buick Park Avenue?</p>
<p>I want to perform this repair to my car, but it looks scary. I feel like taking the whole thing apart may take me a long time, and I am not sure if I will be able to put it back together nicely the way it looks before I disassemble it. Do you have any advice about the dismantling and reassembling the dashboard? How long would it take for a complete newbie to do do it?</p>
<p>Hey, I know it can seen overwhelming at first, but the trick is to just take it slow. Before you take anything apart, look around and find the actual mount points for the dash panel components. Make sure you have the tools you need before you start.<br><br>It might help if you make yourself a little diagram, or even take pictures of what piece you take off from where in what order. Label each piece with some masking tape.<br><br>There typically aren't a lot of individual pieces .. I think my car had less than 5. The fact that most of the dash was one big piece was actually the tricky part - I had to turn the key to accessory to pull the gear shift lever down and tilt the steering wheel down in order to get the dash piece out.<br><br>The best thing to do is try to find a friend that is handy in some way. If you've never soldered before, that is really the trickiest part, but there are plenty of other instructables that talk about how to do that.<br><br>Good luck!</p>
<p>Hey! Thank you for this instructable! I have the problem you described with the gas meter and gear indicators not working. The mechanic where I took the car to get that looked at got me looking for the entire dashboard panel cluster to replace the one in the car, so as this model is discontinued, I have been hunting for the part in the wreckers, but if your method works, it sounds a lot more simple than replacing the whole thing for another used part that may also have its own issues.</p>
<p>OK, this sounds like loads of fun, yet I lack the equipment (soldering iron, tools) and the desire. How much should I pay for this repair? Thanks!</p>
<p>The repair in a garage can cost upwards of a few hundred dollars. Do you have any friends or friends of friends who do have the equipment?</p>
I'm working on it!
Thank you! we followed your steps and it worked..made it easy for 2 old ladies
Kurt the only thing that is not lit is the odometer is that a bulb
<p>No, the odometer is a group of 7 segment displays. You can see them at the bottom of the first picture in Step 6 (kind of looks like an old clock radio display, but with a lot more digits).<br><br>Mine was out as well, and this fixed it.</p>
Kurt, have you ever had issues with the lights on the radio not workin on a 98 GS regal?
<p>No, I can't say that I have...</p>
<p>just did the girl fiends 2001, radio shack did not have the single 150's so I got a pack of everything for $14.00. after getting past the color code for resisters to find the 150's, they are not stamped just color codes. made the repairs as noted and shazam....it worked as he said. I am now a hero. thank you.</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: Jack of All Trades, Master of One: Being Me!
More by Kurt E. Clothier:RV Awning Tension Adjustment Simple Steps to Give Your Robot Personality United States Photo Map 
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