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This is a simple project that evolved from a promise to my son, Max. Earlier this spring, I found him dragging some plywood and bricks out of the garage. I asked him what he was doing, and he said 'building a bike ramp', I told him not to do that, and we would build one the right way.

So we sat down and looked at some commercially available ramps, and got some ideas for size. Then we sketched some construction ideas and came up with a plan.

We went to the local home supply store and picked up a sheet of 3/8" plywood, a 2X4X10 and a box of 2" screws. As we don't have a truck, and the ramp was going to be 2 feet wide, we had them cut the plywood sheet lengthwise. This gave us two sheets of 2'x8' plywood. This is more than enough to make two ramps with scraps left over. Also, I ripped the 2x4 in half (for the support cross beams) on my table saw. You can do the same, or you can use 2X4. Our supplies were about $17 (a real bargain, eh?).

The project shouldn't take more than 4 to 5 hours to complete. I used my table saw, jig saw, and drill. You can use a circular saw as well, just remember to use a guide and cut really straight.

Please wear a helmet when using the ramp. Also, be aware of your ability or the abilities of your child. This ramp was designed for a ten yr old for recreational use. If you are bigger or want to hit it harder I recommend using thicker plywood for your vertical supports.

So what do you need?

3/8" plywood sheet
2x4x10
Table or Circular Saw
Jig Saw
Drill and bits for pilot holes and driving screws..

So, here is the result. Enjoy.

Does it work? Sure check out the video.



Step 1: Cross Beam Supports

The first thing we need to do is to cut three identical cross beam supports.

These will support the ramp deck, and lock the vertical supports together.

I started with a 2X4X10 that I ripped in half (lengthwise) on my table saw. This gave me a cross beam that was roughly 1 1/2 x 1 1/2. You can do the same, or use the full 2X4.

Cut them to a length of 24".

In addition, you will need one more support beam that is 23" long. This will go on the back bottom edge.

Step 2: Vertical Supports

Next we need to cut out the vertical supports. There are three of these and they are just about identical.

Start by cutting your plywood into rectangles that are 24" x 12". Take three of these rectangles and tack them together temporarily. You can use screws or nails, as long as they are kept together and all the sides are square. If they are not perfectly square, use your table saw or circular saw to cut them so they are square.

Now sketch a curve on one side. This will be the profile of your ramp. Feel free to make it straighter or more curved than mine. We wanted a little 'kick' so we could get some 'air'. Our curve was made with the TLAR (That Looks About Right) method.

Using your jig saw, cut the curve from one end to the other. Now you should have good shape for your ramp.

Now you need to cut the slots for the cross beam supports. Find three points on the curve, one near the top, one near the middle, and one towards the bottom. Draw an outline of the shape of your cross beam (either 2x4 or 1 1/2 X 1 1/2) at those three points.

Start cutting the support slots with your jigsaw. Make 7 or 8 parallel cuts for each slot. Then using a screw driver or chisel, break out the pieces. Next use your jigsaw to clean up the bottom so your opening is clean and square.

Test each slot with your cross beams to make sure they fit snug and are flush with the curve.

When you are satisfied with the fit, separate the supports, and pick one to be the middle support.

Cut the bottom corner of the middle support to allow the bottom cross beam support to pass through it. See the diagram below.

Step 3: Cut the Deck

Since we completed the vertical supports, and the horizontal cross beams, now is a great time to start on the deck.

The deck should be 24 inches wide, and approximately 26 inches long. So cut this out of your plywood sheet using your table saw or circular saw.

The next issue to overcome is the curve of the deck. Honestly, I figured that 3/8" plywood would easily bend to the curve on its own. I was wrong. However, before I started, my wife advised me that I should score the back of the deck to allow it to flex. Yeah, she was right.

So here's how to do it. Set your table saw, or circular saw to a depth of 1/8" and cut lengthwise channels approximately 1" apart on the back of the deck.

Step 4: Base Plate

So whats the deal with that extended base plate?

Simple.

This is a portable ramp, and if you went to use it without that extended base, then there is a good possibility that the ramp would tip when you used it. Not only could it be dangerous, you would lose momentum and not get the air or distance you were expecting.

Cut the base plate to be 24 inches wide, and at least 34 inches long. That should allow it to extend at least 10 inches beyond the end of the ramp.

See the picture below for detail.

Step 5: Assemble the Frame

You've got all your pieces cut out, so now it's time to start putting them together.

Start with a clean level surface. (Or as clean and level as you can get it.)

Start by screwing one of the outside vertical supports into the bottom rear cross beam. Make sure the supports are lined up square. I used at least two screws to prevent the cross beam from rotating. Do the same for the other vertical support.

Next, attach the middle vertical support to the bottom cross beam. Carefully drill a pilot hole from the cross beam into the vertical support, and the drive in a screw.

Now, you can start the the horizontal cross beams that will support the deck.

Pick a cross beam and insert it into the slot. Drill a pilot hole from the cross beam into the vertical support at and drive a screw into it. Repeat this all the way across and for the two remaining cross beams.

When you are done, you should have a pretty sturdy skeleton for you ramp.

Step 6: Attach the Ramp Deck and Base

Almost done!

Get your ramp deck and align it on the frame. The back side of the deck should have the horizontal scores that will allow it to flex.

Push against it and drill a pilot hole through the deck into one of the cross members, either the left or right side so you can see where the cross beam is located.. Then drive a screw to hold it. Make sure your screw heads are countersunk so they don't tear up any bicycle tires. Repeat this on the other side of the deck.

Attach the deck to the other cross beams in the same way. You might want to snap a chalk line from side to side to ensure you hit the cross beam, and to make your screw line look straight.

Now you can attach the deck to the vertical supports the same way.

Last step!

Turn the ramp over and align the base plate to the ramp. Attach to vertical supports and rear cross beam by drilling pilot holes and driving screws.

Thats it.
<p>Followed the basic images to create my own 2' launch ramp (didn't take pictures)...just like to add you do not need to mess with the plywood to make it more flexible i used my wood after a hard rain and it was very easy to bend when soaked in water. also try not to drill screws to vertical because they will be more likely to split and come undone....cheers!</p>
<p>Nice! Feel free to share a photo if you can!</p>
drilling screws vertically into plywood is not very strong and can cause the plywood to split and pull out.
what do you suggest to do instead of screwing down in to the plywood? Do you have a ramp instructable?
Yes, that is correct. However, lets not forget this ramp was designed for the recreational use of a 10yr old. Not a skate park with 100+ teens per day. :-)
When he gets bigger, he will need it stronger. P.S. Sk8ter20art is making U look bad.
Could i pay you to build one for me? I am terrible at that kinda stuff and i dont wanna waste wood. Im young as well so my parents wont help me and dont think its a good idea to build it myself.
scoring the back of the plywood is not necessary especially for such a small ramp. If you need to make the wood more plyable to bend soak it in water for about 30 mins before bending it (lay it in the grass and set a sprinkler over it). If the curve is too steep you risk cracking the plywood. ( I Built all the ramps at our skatepark many stayed solid for over 4 years with 100 kids on them daily) everything from a 2 foot launch ramp all the way up to a 11foot tall wall ride with 6 feet of vert.
Hey man, hope for some reason you check this and see this but I'm lookin to build a solid slip 'n' slide ramp into my pond after about a 100+foot entrance from said slide. Do you think I should use this same approach and pack some dirt on top to soften the transition from ground to ramp? <br>Cheers
yeah you can use a similar method as far as ramp design. The main thing i would be most concerned about is the ramp placement and size. you dont want to land in the water where its still very shallow. ramps can be tricky when it comes to the curve. depending on the curve you can go far forward but not high, or go high and not far forward. So finding a good balance is hard.<br><br>If your pond has a quick drop off then you can place your ramp at the waters edge and it should be fine, if the drop off is very gradual, then you may need to extend it out into the water or at the end of a small dock.<br><br>Hope this helps, i am attatching a diagram i made for a launch box design of mine. I have used this design on several large ramps. It should give you a better idea for support on a larger ramp than this instructable,
Yes, I was aware of that. Perhaps we will try that next time. Thanks! :-)
would this work for a mountain bike
Sure would.. My kids have used it with their mountain bikes.<br><br>Have fun, and be safe!
thanks<br>
I can't even count high enough to document my ramp related injuries, which when I think of it are probably due to those very ramp related injuries.
is your inability to count due to a concussion from launching ooff of said ramp? lol
How Do You Make The Wood Bend?
Check Step 3. <br><br>https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-A-Bicycle-Ramp/step3/Cut-the-deck/<br><br>I cut horizontal grooves across the bottom.<br><br>Also, as someone else mentioned, you could wet it and bend it too.<br><br>Good luck!
Thanks for this instructable! Easy to follow directions, great diagrams, measurements. I made mine wider than yours and added a fourth rib because I'm out of practice and need a bigger target, check out the finished product. Thanks again
Awesome!<br><br>Didn't see a link or a picture.. feel free to post one!
oops, I'll try again. seriously, you gave me part of my childhood back so thanks again!
sweet black mag skyways
Very Cool!<br><br>Enjoy your second childhood!
Cutting grooves on the back of wood is called kerfing.
Simple and yet, reliable! Thumb up!
I think the idea of scoring it is great, all of the ramps I have built a usually flat. Great Instructable.
Great job, Dad! It's good to see you using your carpentry skills to support your son. I built all of my ramps, to include a four foot half pipe, on my own or with a few friends. I learned through trial and error, whereas your son has your knowledge and experience to benefit from. It's good to see parents actively supporting their child's interests and posting the results here!
Thanks for the kind words! <br><br>Check out my other instructables, most are inspired by my kids, and executed with their assistance.
You are absolutely correct. <br><br>However, those notches hold those supports in place and they will never come out. If they were simply nailed or screwed from the other side, the could and would weaken over time with use and weather.<br><br>Sometimes, a little more effort on the front end provides for a better product in the long run. :-)
What is a 2x4x10?
A piece of wood that is 2 inches x 4 inches x 10 feet.
Actually, 1-1/2&quot; x 3-1/2&quot; x 10', but I'm being pedantic. Good work on the 'able.
a 2x4 that is 10ft long
it is verry good,but is not happy&iexcl;&iexcl;&iexcl;
lol'd
Hrm... Next time I'll try to make my projects happier.... I guess... :-/
just curious? :)<br>did you use sketch up, solid works, or autocadd for the drawings?<br>thanks :)
Sketch up!
could i possibly also extend the vertical supports?<br>so imagine the piece extended, visualize a line from the peak of the ramp to the base of the ramp about 8 to 10 inches out.<br>thanks :)
wow great quality ramp and the design pics look like the real thing. 5 out of 5!
&nbsp;nice instructable
Would I be able to use MDF?
<p>You could, but&nbsp; you need to get it curve.&nbsp; I guess you could wet it, and then form it.<br /> <br /> However,&nbsp;I think in the long run, you'd be better off with plywood.</p>
sweet ramp man! Very nicley done. do you think i could use my scooter on it,im 180?
You probably shouldn't be riding a scooter if your a hundred and 18...
dude stfu im 190 what you gonna do about it
Dude how old r u?
since that comment? i've grown A YEAR ALMOST. 15
lol 191. - almost

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