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Build A Mobile Bar - BaR2D2

Build A Mobile Bar - BaR2D2
BaR2D2 is a radio-controlled, mobile bar that features a motorized beer elevator, motorized ice/mixer drawer, six-bottle shot dispenser, and sound activated neon lighting. The robot is driveable so you can take the party on the road! It was created in my garage using standard hand/power tools and readily available parts and materials.



The concept for BaR2D2 was born when a friend showed up to an event with a radio-controlled cooler. We joked about taking the idea to the next level and in the Spring of 2008, construction began.

If you enjoy BaR2D2 as much as we have, be sure to rate this Instructable a 5 and vote for it in The Craftsman Workshop of the Future Contest!

Just a quick note about me - I am a regular DIY'r and don't have any formal robotics, electronics, or mechanical training. I have picked up most of my skills from various hobbies and projects, as well as my father who is a skilled woodworker. If you have a basic knowledge of woodworking and working with low voltage power, then you can build a mobile bar! Enjoy!
 
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Step 1Creating the Framework

Creating the Framework
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As far as tooling for this project, here is a pretty good idea of what you'll need:

Drill Press
Table Saw
Router/table
Hand Drill
Screwdrivers
Pliers
Wire Strippers
Soldering iron
Voltmeter
Various Clamps
Vise
Hammer
Dremel Tool
Utility Knife
Heat gun (hairdryer will work)
Welder
Air Compressor
Air Stapler/nailer
Socket Set
Belt Sander

First, purchase a sheet of 4ft x 8ft x 3/4 inch plywood. I used the flooring grade as it will be covered later.

Cut the sheet into 8 2ft x 2ft squares and mark their center points by drawing an X across the middle from the corners. Drill a 1/4 inch hole in the middle of them.

Using a router table, measure out 9 inches from the edge of the cutting bit and bolt your wood square loosely to it. Turn the router on and plunge it slowly upwards until it goes through the wood. Lock the router in place and proceed to rotate the squares until you complete the circle. Repeat eight times. This will give you 18 inch circles. Why 18 inches? I am using an off-the-shelf plastic dome that is that size. Specifically, it is a clear dome from Aspects used for bird feeders. This was purchased from a bird store for $35. The shot dispenser we are using is available on ebay new for $30.

Three of the circles will be cut into rings. To cut out the centers, I made a quick jig as pictured to be able to rotate the circles against it. Two of the finished rings should be 1.75 inches thick and one will be 1 inch thick.

Take one of the circles and setup the router to create a groove about 3/4 through the thickness for the dome to sit in.
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120 comments
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Jan 31, 2009. 6:26 AMnopesi says:
I have been trying to figure out how to make something like this for my home. I have bought a windshield wiper pump and it sorta works just dont have the money to pay that much to do it!! Where would I find a push button panel like the one shown? See link and pictures below.
http://www.sidebarbeverage.com/Sidebar_Instruction_Man.pdf
May 1, 2012. 12:38 PMsouichi says:
Why not just use an air pump that ill just push the liquid out rather than passing thru a pump... and to choose the drink have a servo motor to grip the hose to open and close with the switch...

or another is have an electronic valve..
Sep 5, 2011. 8:31 AMbotronics says:
Sidebar does sell replacement pumps for $39 at this link
Feb 2, 2009. 11:57 AMnopesi says:
I went to bar monkey but that looks real complex and what I would love to find out if someone were to call this company what type of pumps they use as it does not work on CO2 and where can u buy momentary swithes like whats pictured?
Feb 4, 2009. 11:34 AMnopesi says:
Any idea on where to get these pumps and switches like in the picture????You can call me 1-800-809-8433
Nov 19, 2011. 9:23 PMrolltidehank says:
Wow. That's amazing. Great job!
Jul 12, 2011. 12:49 AMgyromonkey says:
Possibly the best invention since the wheel……………..
Feb 20, 2011. 7:06 PMbpark1000 says:
I have built "R2D2" type robots, and the problem is that they are always top heavy, and tend to upset. One that I built had a top made almost entirely of foam, and still, it tends to upset. The dilemma is with a tripod wheel arrangement, with a castered 3rd wheel, you must keep the load light on the unpowered wheel. That makes the robot tend to upset easily, even with lead-acid batteries low in the bottom.

It looks like yours has a lot of weight up high, and a tripod wheel arrangement that looks even tighter than mine. How do you get stability? What is the total weight of the robot? Has anyone ever been "heavy handed" at a party and knocked it over? Mine gets overturned at Halloween.

I am taking a 2nd shot at getting the AGC schematic on the site (for the neon driver). Another comment about modulating lights to music: I have never seen anyone else have lights that are on and get dimmer with the music. Having lights in pairs (one dims, one brightens) guarantees that the amount of light is constant, but where it comes from changes. No blackouts when the song ends!
Feb 11, 2011. 9:45 AMbpark1000 says:
A comment concerning the modulation of the neon to the music: because the light has less dynamic range than audio, you need an Automatic Gain Control to effectively "compress" the audio dynamic range, and to deal with differing sound levels. This can be done with hardware or software. You detect the level of the audio. Feed this into an integrator that integrates the difference between a constant and the audio level. You want the time constant of the integrator to be on the order of 10 to 30 seconds. The integrator level controls a variable-gain amplifier on the incoming audio. If, the audio level gets loud, the integrator over several seconds adjusts the sensitivity down so the light isn't on constantly. If the level drops, the gain will be adjusted upward, keeping the light from going off totally. These adjustments will keep the light "active" despite differing sound levels. You need to get into the neon driver to get its performance more "linear" and less "flashy". Virtually every "neon" product I have bought has this problem. I have schematics using few parts that can do this.
Feb 20, 2011. 6:15 PMbpark1000 says:
Here is the schematic. This is from a "color organ" that has +/- 15V supply, so you will have to most likely modify to run in a single supply. Audio from the microphone is amplified to about 1VRMS for loud room (you need to do that, not included in my schematic). C1 is AC coupling. R1 and Q1 form a voltage divider (JFET Q1 acts as a "voltage-controlled resistor" if the audio level is kept small on the FET). Attenuated audio is fed to X10 gain amp U1. From here, you insert any frequency filtering you want (for example, 30-80 Hz for bass response). The output of the filter rectified and filtered by U2/R13/C7/C8. This signal goes 2 places: 1. to your neon driver circuit control input, and 2. to the AGC integrator via R17. Also feeding the integrator is a fixed voltage via R18. The integrator integrates the difference between these (one is negative). C9/R17 sets the time constant. When the audio is quiet, the integrator output goes positive. A reduced version of this voltage goes to the gate of the JFET, causing its channel resistance to increase. More audio gets to the filter, and more drive to the neon. When the audio gets loud, the integrator goes less positive, reducing the amount of audio that gets through the JFET circuit.

Trimpot V3 sets the level the AGC regulates to. Meter (or LED) indicates whether the circuit is getting enough/too little/too much audio.

Your neon driver probably will need work. You need an input that causes the neon to smoothly brighten/dim as the control voltage is changed. You will most likely want to regulate the current to the driver rather than the voltage. You can use LM324 (4 opamps in an IC) instead of 741.

You can run this on one voltage if you float +input of integrator to about +3V (use resistor divider between +V/GND), and feed GND into R18. You may also need AC coupling/bias network going into U1.
Oct 26, 2010. 10:59 AMAngelAscanio says:
I've seen this project around 100 times, and every 100 times I think it's fantastic! Congratulations. The project itself is incredible, and the instructable was neat, simple, and sharp clear! Thanks for sharing this.
Jan 5, 2011. 3:11 PMtde1806 says:
how about some more information on how you made it electronic,

would be cool with some more pictures
Jan 5, 2011. 3:12 PMtde1806 says:
Oh forgot to say I'm crazy about your projects super cool
Oct 20, 2010. 5:23 AMking kolton9 says:
could i put cokea-cola in it
Oct 9, 2010. 9:34 AMJackus95 says:
It may seem harmless but just wait until it learns to poison drinks...
Oct 9, 2009. 1:45 PMLuciferRex says:
As if it wasn't already the end-all of machines....now you have to add a liquor mixing component?!?  Amazing.  I bow to your ability.
Sep 23, 2010. 7:27 AMtechtech777 says:
All hail the moving alcohol machine!
Aug 6, 2010. 6:04 PMkill1234 says:
I saw you at Daily Planet...
Jun 18, 2010. 12:26 AMPeterTheUnGreat says:
Amazing project - great Idea, well executed and well explained. Pete
Oct 10, 2009. 11:29 AMsunrisetoday says:
Dear Author:
I still do not understand your method of wiring between the radio controller/receiver and the speed controllers.  Can you send me the sketches that you made for the wiring?  Do I have to use the servo - and does it take signals from the radio controller?  Thank you. 
 
Apr 29, 2010. 3:26 PMsteliart says:
Wow!
Excellent project!
Congratulations
Mar 1, 2010. 10:41 AMfloryzzz says:
 the star wars robot sucks
BaR2D2 rulez
Feb 21, 2010. 9:54 AMvalcider says:
You are a genius! 
Nov 20, 2009. 9:18 AMkaptaink_cg says:
That's incredibly awesome.


Will you be my friend?? LOL
Sep 28, 2009. 8:36 AMGamer917 says:
does it play the star wars cantina music?
Sep 25, 2009. 10:22 AMhalolord says:
this is awsome i have recently saw this on tv. i didn't belive it at first but now i do .i also noticed that your i star wars geek like me.Do you happen to have a degree in any thing or no? log live star wars die treckies -jason
Sep 12, 2009. 12:40 PMlobonse says:
I think there should be an evil version, like the little dudes on the deathstar, that moves around really fast and shoots cans of beer at unsuspecting partiers. or even better, glass bottles!
Aug 27, 2009. 8:58 PMAllowance10 says:
Sick Project. Your project inspired me a few months ago and ever since I have been working on something like it. It use a lego mindstorm NXT to control it via bluetooth logictech remotes. I am using lego and tetrix(metal parts that are compatable with legos!) parts to construct it. It will have a drawer with a table on top that holds an ice bucket and two litter soda bottles. It will probably be done by early september I hope! Very nice ible! -Hunter
Aug 23, 2009. 7:12 PMon a path to instruction says:
do i bow before i read or after?
Feb 5, 2009. 7:20 PMbastion72 says:
Excellent job. I was looking at all that wasted space in the beer turntable. Maybe have some beers laying behind the upright ones that can fall into place to replace the empty spot? I was thinking of a wall behind the rotating beers and the replacements on a chute at 45 degrees or so. Then a hole in the wall in the first empty spot that would let the beer fall into place.
1-40 of 120next »

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