Step 2: Creating the Vertical Stringers and Grooves

Next, I ripped the vertical stringers from poplar on the tablesaw. You will end up with six pieces that are 1 inch x 3/4 inch x 43 inches.

You will need a dado saw blade for the next steps. This tool allows you to stack blades and spacers to cut nice, clean grooves.

Cutting 3/4 inch grooves in the poplar vertical stringers and circles will make the bar fit together like a puzzle when assembled. Cut grooves at the end, then at ten inches down, then 20 inches, then 32 inches, and finally, the other end.

To cut the grooves in the circles, I stacked them, put a bolt in the middle to hold them together, then clamped them between two blocks and ran them through the dado blade as pictured. The six uprights will be spaced equally all the way around. Note - Take note of the pictures in the other steps as some of the pieces will get cut away to allow for the drawer.

I've seen this project around 100 times, and every 100 times I think it's fantastic! Congratulations. The project itself is incredible, and the instructable was neat, simple, and sharp clear! Thanks for sharing this.
thanks! on a related note - you can friend the robot on facebook and see his travels (just got back from Hong Kong, China!)<br><br>facebook name:<br>Bartwo Dtwo
<p>I looked on Facebook and there is no option to friend BaR2D2. Did you reach the max # of friends?</p>
On another note - check out my latest project that is in the Humana contest. If you think it's a winner, vote and rank it highly. Thanks! <br>http://www.instructables.com/id/Occupational-Therapy-DexterityCognitive-Aid/ <br> <br>Jamie
I have been trying to figure out how to make something like this for my home. I have bought a windshield wiper pump and it sorta works just dont have the money to pay that much to do it!! Where would I find a push button panel like the one shown? See link and pictures below.<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.sidebarbeverage.com/Sidebar_Instruction_Man.pdf">http://www.sidebarbeverage.com/Sidebar_Instruction_Man.pdf</a><br/>
Why not just use an air pump that ill just push the liquid out rather than passing thru a pump... and to choose the drink have a servo motor to grip the hose to open and close with the switch... <br> <br>or another is have an electronic valve..
I have seen that system. This system basically uses pumps and switches. You can get switches at Radio Shack and custom make your own plate. Another place to google is barmonkey. they have been experimenting with this type of thing. one note about washer pumps - some say they are fine, but some say they are concerned about the oils and seals in them being toxic. just something to think about.
Sidebar does sell replacement pumps for $39 at this<a href="http://www.sidebarbeverage.com/online-store/6500-series-vertical?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=24&category_id=7"> link</a>
I went to bar monkey but that looks real complex and what I would love to find out if someone were to call this company what type of pumps they use as it does not work on CO2 and where can u buy momentary swithes like whats pictured?
Momentary switches are sold anywhere electronic parts are sold. As for their pumps, they are probably using food grade pumps or non-contact pumps. As for complexity, I thought the barmonkey setup was one of the more straight forward ones I have seen. jamie
Any idea on where to get these pumps and switches like in the picture????You can call me 1-800-809-8433
No, I don't know where to specifically get the ones in the picture. jamie
Wow. That's amazing. Great job!
Possibly the best invention since the wheel&hellip;&hellip;&hellip;&hellip;&hellip;..
I have built &quot;R2D2&quot; type robots, and the problem is that they are always top heavy, and tend to upset. One that I built had a top made almost entirely of foam, and still, it tends to upset. The dilemma is with a tripod wheel arrangement, with a castered 3rd wheel, you must keep the load light on the unpowered wheel. That makes the robot tend to upset easily, even with lead-acid batteries low in the bottom.<br><br>It looks like yours has a lot of weight up high, and a tripod wheel arrangement that looks even tighter than mine. How do you get stability? What is the total weight of the robot? Has anyone ever been &quot;heavy handed&quot; at a party and knocked it over? Mine gets overturned at Halloween.<br><br>I am taking a 2nd shot at getting the AGC schematic on the site (for the neon driver). Another comment about modulating lights to music: I have never seen anyone else have lights that are on and get dimmer with the music. Having lights in pairs (one dims, one brightens) guarantees that the amount of light is constant, but where it comes from changes. No blackouts when the song ends!
A comment concerning the modulation of the neon to the music: because the light has less dynamic range than audio, you need an Automatic Gain Control to effectively &quot;compress&quot; the audio dynamic range, and to deal with differing sound levels. This can be done with hardware or software. You detect the level of the audio. Feed this into an integrator that integrates the difference between a constant and the audio level. You want the time constant of the integrator to be on the order of 10 to 30 seconds. The integrator level controls a variable-gain amplifier on the incoming audio. If, the audio level gets loud, the integrator over several seconds adjusts the sensitivity down so the light isn't on constantly. If the level drops, the gain will be adjusted upward, keeping the light from going off totally. These adjustments will keep the light &quot;active&quot; despite differing sound levels. You need to get into the neon driver to get its performance more &quot;linear&quot; and less &quot;flashy&quot;. Virtually every &quot;neon&quot; product I have bought has this problem. I have schematics using few parts that can do this.
sounds interesting.... yeah, these are off the shelf neon rings with a sound module with a knob gain adjustment. something that is self correcting could be nice. shoot me the schematics/parts info to jamieaprice at yahoo.com thanks, jamie
Here is the schematic. This is from a &quot;color organ&quot; that has +/- 15V supply, so you will have to most likely modify to run in a single supply. Audio from the microphone is amplified to about 1VRMS for loud room (you need to do that, not included in my schematic). C1 is AC coupling. R1 and Q1 form a voltage divider (JFET Q1 acts as a &quot;voltage-controlled resistor&quot; if the audio level is kept small on the FET). Attenuated audio is fed to X10 gain amp U1. From here, you insert any frequency filtering you want (for example, 30-80 Hz for bass response). The output of the filter rectified and filtered by U2/R13/C7/C8. This signal goes 2 places: 1. to your neon driver circuit control input, and 2. to the AGC integrator via R17. Also feeding the integrator is a fixed voltage via R18. The integrator integrates the difference between these (one is negative). C9/R17 sets the time constant. When the audio is quiet, the integrator output goes positive. A reduced version of this voltage goes to the gate of the JFET, causing its channel resistance to increase. More audio gets to the filter, and more drive to the neon. When the audio gets loud, the integrator goes less positive, reducing the amount of audio that gets through the JFET circuit.<br><br>Trimpot V3 sets the level the AGC regulates to. Meter (or LED) indicates whether the circuit is getting enough/too little/too much audio.<br><br>Your neon driver probably will need work. You need an input that causes the neon to smoothly brighten/dim as the control voltage is changed. You will most likely want to regulate the current to the driver rather than the voltage. You can use LM324 (4 opamps in an IC) instead of 741.<br><br>You can run this on one voltage if you float +input of integrator to about +3V (use resistor divider between +V/GND), and feed GND into R18. You may also need AC coupling/bias network going into U1.
how about some more information on how you made it electronic, <br> <br> would be cool with some more pictures <br>
check out bar2d2 and more pics on flickr... also, you can friend him on facebook: bartwo dtwo<br><br>jamie
Oh forgot to say I'm crazy about your projects super cool <br>
could i put cokea-cola in it
It may seem harmless but just wait until it learns to poison drinks...
As if it wasn't already the end-all of machines....now you have to add a liquor mixing component?!?&nbsp; Amazing.&nbsp; I bow to your ability.
All hail the moving alcohol machine!
I saw you at Daily Planet...
Amazing project - great Idea, well executed and well explained. Pete
Thanks for the props! Fun project. FYI - the liqour mixing tower upgrade is done and operational! Works great and makes over 5,000 drinks! Once instructables has another good contest and I get some time, I will do a write up on it. jamie
Dear Author:<br />I&nbsp;still do not understand your method of wiring between the radio controller/receiver and the speed controllers.&nbsp; Can you send me the sketches that you made for the wiring?&nbsp; Do I have to use the servo - and does it take signals from the radio controller?&nbsp; Thank you.&nbsp; <input type="hidden" id="gwProxy"><!--Session data--></input><input type="hidden" id="jsProxy" onclick="jsCall();" /><div id="refHTML">&nbsp;</div>
Sunrise - most speed controllers plug right into the radio reciever. No - you don't use the servos. Your speed controller will have wiring diagram. jamie
<div>Wow!</div> <div>Excellent project!</div> <div>Congratulations</div>
&nbsp;the star wars robot sucks<br /> BaR2D2 rulez
You are a genius!&nbsp;
That's incredibly&nbsp;awesome.<br /> <br /> <br /> Will you be my friend?? LOL
does it play the star wars cantina music?
this is awsome i have recently saw this on tv. i didn't belive it at first but now i do .i also noticed that your i star wars geek like me.Do you happen to have a degree in any thing or no? log live star wars die treckies -jason
Thanks for the compliments! While I "enjoy" the Star Wars flicks, I am not gung-ho about them. I have seen them all, but probably only a couple of times. As for the degree, I have one in advertising/public relations/journalism. Most of my crazy building projects are self-taught from experiences here and there. Note - the images you see on this instructable are the older ones without the computerized liquor carousel.
I think there should be an evil version, like the little dudes on the deathstar, that moves around really fast and shoots cans of beer at unsuspecting partiers. or even better, glass bottles!
Sick Project. Your project inspired me a few months ago and ever since I have been working on something like it. It use a lego mindstorm NXT to control it via bluetooth logictech remotes. I am using lego and tetrix(metal parts that are compatable with legos!) parts to construct it. It will have a drawer with a table on top that holds an ice bucket and two litter soda bottles. It will probably be done by early september I hope! Very nice ible! -Hunter
do i bow before i read or after?
Excellent job. I was looking at all that wasted space in the beer turntable. Maybe have some beers laying behind the upright ones that can fall into place to replace the empty spot? I was thinking of a wall behind the rotating beers and the replacements on a chute at 45 degrees or so. Then a hole in the wall in the first empty spot that would let the beer fall into place.
thanks. as for the extra room, at first, there was a steel container that held dry ice to help keep the beers cold. it did ok, but if I could put 3 more beers in there, it would hold an 18 pack. I had considered springs that would push the next beer into place after one left to fill the empty hole. jamie
i was in a retail supplies supply store (they sell shelving, pegboard hooks, etc.) and i saw the kind of thing that are in the beverage fridges near the checkouts at some stores, the little plate thing that continually pushes shelved items forward, its got a flat metal spring type thing in the back that pushes it forward. that seems like it might the right thing for the job. maybe v2's shelves will be plexi and have truckbed liner in some places, and not all over.<br/>I also want to say that the vibrant blue lights that are in <em>EVERYTHING </em>(not just your awesome robot) are very bright and irritating, could v2 have a different color?<br/>
You should find an efficient way to make them, patent it, and sell them. I estimate that you could sell them for up to three thousand dollars, and people would still buy them.
whoa!!! dude awspme <br/><br/>i read about this in popular science<br/><br/><strong>didnt know waz on instructables!!!!!!</strong><br/>
elevator too... The turntable is under plexi glass which is bar level and i want the elevator to bring it up to bar level.
for the limit switches to control the spin of the table and the elevator, you need to make sure these things happen: limit switch that is actuated by the elevator hitting its full down position. This allows the spin motor to energize. limit switch that is actuated by the "teeth" of the spin table. This will interupt power to the elevator unless the table is in a position for the elevator to go up without hitting a tooth. limit switch (reed switch) that is actuated by the beer bottle. This kills power to the spin table as soon as a beer hits it. when the beer goes up and the elevator goes back down, the next beer advances. A 3 way switch for loading, unloading, and off position. This reverses the table for loading, and then allows for forward motion of the table. In your application, another 3 way switch would probably be used to actuate the beers instead of a remote control. jamie
Great Instructable, and congrats on getting the front page of How 2.0 in Popsci!
how did you cover up the staples on the clear plastic were the beer bottles are?
I used the chrome detail trim that is adhesive backed to cover all that. Comes in different colors, sizes, and styles at autozone and similar. check out www.jamiepricecreative.com and scroll through the pics. jamie

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