Are you tired of those old black speakers that only just make sounds? Maybe sound reactive lights are just not enough to impress you? How about a Plasma Speaker?

A plasma speaker is a device that generates an high voltage electrical arc that makes purple light and music! Without any speakers or any moving parts! Sounds too good to be true? Well, you're wrong, the high voltage arc really does 'sing' by vibrating in the air. (Of course, you will need to give the device musical audio for it to work.) And just leave this instructable if you still don't believe me...

And this is something I always wanted to build - I have been dreaming to build one for about 6 months, until Kiteman has greatly boosted my encouragement to build one. (Thanks Kiteman!)

The video of my plasma speaker - early prototype.

Step 1: The dangers you must know...

A plasma speaker is no toy...

Health Hazard
Unlike the ordinary speakers, the plasma speaker are dangerous high voltage device, do NOT attempt to build this device unless you know what you are doing... And do NOT even attempt to build one if you have heart problems or weak heart or wearing a pacemaker, because one little shock from this thing can put you out...
I am not responsible for any injuries or deaths caused by this device.

Why should you know all of this? it is because you can ONLY live once, and no more...
If you don't think that you shouldn't build one, just watch movies of it working instead, much better than risking your life to build and operate one.
If you think you are okay to build one without killing your self, then move on to the next step.

Hazard to Electronics
Since the plasma speaker generates high voltages, there is a chance there will be high voltage spikes on the low voltage side of the device, which can get onto the audio line and damage (or destroy) the player. They are some safety features to prevent the spikes damaging the player, but they can fail... So I am not responsible if your player gets damaged, and use cheap players like CD players, if you're rich, you can use expensive players if you want. :-)

Step 2: Schematics

I got the idea from scopeboy's website on his flyback driver section, but the schematic was quite complex and buying four MOSFET's is a little too expensive for me...

So I simplified the design to using one MOSFET.

I get a lot of complainants of this project is not working very well or at all. This new design WORKs, however, for most people it may not work. This is due to the MOSFET (and some other components) is poor quality.

I just recently found out that manufacture who makes the components sell the best quality ones to other manufactures and sell the poorer quality ones to the whole sellers and retailers. For this project, the best grade MOSFET's is critical, and it can only be gotten by salvaging old electronic devices, unless you are willing to pay for thousands of components for the manufacture... :-)

Step 3: So, how does it actually work!?!?!?

Okay, you must be very curious how the plasma speaker works...

Note: This information is technical, skip this step if you don't understand...

The TL494 acts like an oscillator and a modulator, it generates a high frequency (5KHz to 45KHz) to drive the flyback transformer to make high voltage arcs. Then when you give it audio, the TL494 modulates the audio frequency into the main high frequency. Now the flyback transformer is being driven by the high frequency and the audio frequency, and when the arc is produced, the arc vibrates the air with both the audio and high frequency creating sounds.
If you tune up the 22K potentiometer, the high frequency increases, when it goes higher than 20KHz, we cannot hear it, but only the audio frequency...

I hope you can kinda understand this..

Step 4: What you will need...

You will need quite a lot of stuff to make the plasma speaker...

  • TL494 chip (Datasheet for TL494)
  • 200uF (or 220uF) - 50v electrolytic capacitor
  • 47nF - 250v (or similar voltage ratings) capacitor
  • 100nF - 50v capacitor
  • 10nF - 50v capacitor
  • 2.2K - 1/4W resistor
  • 10 ohm - 1/4W resistor
  • UF4007 diode (or other fast diode that is rated 1A (or more) and 500v (or more)
  • 10K - 1/4W potentiometer (same thing as a variable resistor)
  • 22K - 1/4W potentiometer (same thing as a variable resistor)
  • Audio jack
  • Wires
  • IRF540 MOSFET (other MOSFET's with similar ratings should work)
  • Large heatsink
  • Flyback transformer (can be found from old CRT.)
  • 12v power source (for TL494 oscillator / I used a 9v battery)
  • 12v to 40v power source (for the flyback transformer)
  • Breadboard (for testing)
  • Veroboard

I bought most of my electronic parts from Farnell.

  • Soldering iron
  • Wire strippers
  • Wire cutters
  • Pliers
  • Helping hands
  • Hot glue gun

  • Good with a soldering iron.
  • Can read schematics.
  • Know what you are doing when you are dealing with high voltage.

Step 5: Build the prototype on the bread board

Do what the title says... Build the circuit on the bread board!

Why on a bread board and not build it directly onto the veroboard?

Well, it is a very good idea to build the prototype on the bread board before you solder the components onto the veroboard because...
  • You will get a better idea on how to build a 'real' one on the veroboard.
  • You can make sure all the components are working fine, if not, you can replace it easily.
  • You can modify or tweet the circuit a bit to give the plasma speaker a better performance.

I built my circuit using my simplified schematic on the bread board that is connected to the "Electronic Lab" kit that I got a long time ago.

To connect the flyback transformer to the circuit, wind 5 or more turns of thick solid-core wire on the ferrite core. That will be your primary coil.

Step 6: Test the prototype

After you had built it, go ahead and test it!
If it does not work, don't get all frustrated or anything like that, go back and check your circuit closely, make sure there are no missing connections, and check the components are properly connected to the circuit...

Mine works quite well, unfortunately, the MOSFET is wasting large amounts of energy into heat, so it is blazing hot... I have to make the heat sink bigger to try keep it cool longer. But it still goes blazing hot after three minutes of continuous operation.
Oh well, that is my efficient design so far...

If yours working well with out very much problem, thats great!

Step 7: Build the circuit

After you have tested to make sure everything is working, start building the prototype onto the veroboard.

If you notice in the pictures, I use an 16 pin socket for the TL494, it is really good idea to use sockets for the IC' s because you won't risk heat damage from soldering, and if the IC fails, you can easily replace it instead of desoldering it and solder another one in..
I also added an LED indicator, that is a good idea to add that on too, so you know whether the circuit is on or off. The LED indicator is connected to the TL494's power supply line.

After you had done soldering, make sure you made nice shiny solder joints and they are no solder bridges. If you think it is all good enough, add some dab of hot glue onto the loose components and wires for strain relief.

Step 8: Final test

Okay, you are very close...
Test your plasma speaker to make sure if it is working or not.

If its working, let out a sigh of relive that you did it!

If its not working, don't overreact of frustrated, (I know it is very frustrating when something does not work).
A few things can go wrong with this circuit, here is a list of some problems...
  • Solder bridge - That is the most common problem in soldering.
  • Some connections missed out - Also another common problem...
  • Damaged components
Try find and fix the problem, there is no point giving up - unless you are really lazy to do so...

After you got your plasma speaker working, it is a good idea to the circuit into a project box. I will protect the electronics from being damaged from foreign objects and protects people from an electrical shock.

Step 9: Enjoy and impress your friends!

Well, there is the instructions to make your own Plasma Speaker! Go ahead and pump in your favorite music then listen and watch the arc dance with the music and admire what you had built...

Then show it to your friends and family, I can guarantee you they will be greatly impressed.

When my Dad first saw my plasma speaker in operation, his first words about it are: "What the f... Tha... Thats impossible." He is wrong, nothing is impossible... Nothing.

Step 10: How to use the plasma speaker

Here is how you can control the plasma speaker with the two potentiometers.

The 10K potentiometer is used to change the TL494's internal oscillator frequency - from 5KHz to 50KHz. If you want to play music on the arc, tune the frequency up until you don't hear it and play the music. Note: The 10K potentiometer does NOT affect the input audio (music).

I am not too sure what the 22K potentiometer's job is, but it seems to change the volume of the audio, fiddle with the 22K potentiometer until you can hear the music loudly. Note: Making the music louder will shorten the length of the arc.

Step 11: Interesting discharges...

Just a little story I like to tell you about...

While I was testing (well, playing) my plasma speaker, the 12v battery is going flat and the arcs are becoming unimpressively short. So I replaced the battery with my lab PSU I modified from an ATX PSU and put an 22,000uF capacitor in parallel with its 12v output and ground.
The 22,000uF capacitor is used to adsorb any high voltage spikes that may appear on the line.

When I connect the PSU's power to the plasma speaker and turned it on...

The arc are very different, instead of a sting of purple light, the arc flaps furiously and it makes very interesting light display. But this is not suitable for a plasma speaker, because the arcs flaps so much it just simply drowned out the music...

Here is a video of the arcs.

Well, I hoped you enjoyed this instructable!
If you have any questions, or need help, or found an error, or anything, make a comment! I like comments! :-)
<p>Hey, how do you think we could go about the build if we replace some of these components with a CFL driver? Is it feasible? </p>
<p>Cool! but what's the use of the diode in parallel with the mosfet? </p>
<p>in my opinion it isnt really needed as mosfets have diodes built into them anyways </p>
To help absorb emf puose in the oposite polarity, to protect misfet<br>
<p>Just curious, is it possible to modify an electric arc lighter to do this same thing?</p>
Hi, i have a problem. I also built this speaker, but when i start it, my mosfet instantly dies :) i tried to take a pulldown resistor, but it also doesnt work. Could anybody help me?
Dear Plasmana, <br> <br>I used my plasmaspeaker for over a year now but I have a problem. <br>I always used a laptop power supply (90 watt) for the flyback transformer and last week I bought a heavyduty power supply (50 volt/16 amps, 800VA) and now I killed my MOSFET (IRF640). My question is; wich MOSFET can I use for pulling a few hundred watts without killing it. The max the IRF640 took was 26 volts and about 3.80 amps (at 30 volt and 4 amps it blew up). I had a 2SK1082 MOSFET laying arround but that doesnt work very well. I got a very little arc from that one. <br> <br>Please help me, I really need a MOSFET that can handle much more current/voltage and still give a nice big fat arc from the flyback. <br> <br>Greetings, <br>Jochem
<p>irf3205 it has 110 amps of current handling and 55 volts</p>
I gave eight of those, they can make 7&quot; arcs when used in this circuit at 40 volts, 30 amps
<p>there made for car batteries</p>
It's not really about the MOSFET handling current but rather the switching. Get some IRF540's on Ebay for about a dollar a piece and they're 100V, 30A.
Thnx for the reply,<br> I got 2 irfb20n50k's now. 500V 20A and I guess they can handle 280 watt at 25 degrees celcius. Atleast that is what I read in the datasheet. :) This MOSFET works great at 35V and 3.4A but I don't want to blow it up, haha. Got a 50V 16A (800VA) toroidal transformer attached to it with a variac and a 100V 22000uF capacitor.<br> This MOSFET don't get that hot with a CPU cooler attached to it and I got a pretty long and loud arc. But I guess the MOSFET can handle even more! :)<br> Here is a movie of my power supply and plasma speaker (only on 25V) :p<br> <div> <iframe frameborder="0" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/XtfuMuHwWTk?rel=0" width="640"></iframe></div>
Sweet setup and spark! =)<br>When ever I bother myself to make another of these I think I'm gonna add a 148watt Peltier cooler. Might help those poor MOSFETS from dying? =)
good idea about using a cooler but one side of them gets really hot so your just moving the problem. im probably wrong. will the cool side being heated by the MOSFET cancel out the other side from overheating.
<div> Hey Crimson-Deity,<br> Here is just another video of my plasma speaker at 34 volt this time.<br> The arc is now longer and louder! :)<br> I will probably crank the voltage up some more in the near future, but I really hope I don't pop the MOSFET. :P<iframe frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/YvvjjsOXlFk" width="560"></iframe></div>
Thnx, I still need to build the variac, bridge rectifier and capacitor in a box :) <br>And maybe I will build a volt and amp meter in it aswell. Looks alot better then a separate volt and amp meter if u ask me! :) <br>I bought this stuff a week ago so that's why it lays all over the floor. :p <br> <br>About dying of MOSFETS, I guess if u stay in the voltage, amps and watt range of what they can handle, u will be fine and keep them cool as possible. :)
how much current requirement of FB transformer...?
how much current requirement of FB transformer?
Hi, 47nf capacitor or 47uf capacitor?
<p>i made it~ but it doesn't work.<br>i think that there isn't enough power to drive the flyback transformer.<br>how can i get the power to drive the flyback transformer?<br>can i use a switching power supply to provide enough power to the flyback transformer?</p>
<p>Wow. Completely impractical but completely awesome. I so wish I had the time to build one.</p>
<p>&quot;Here's a video of the arcs.&quot;</p><p>Click on play and get &quot;THIS VIDEO IS PRIVATE&quot; = B.S. </p><p>WHY even have this on the pages?? </p><p>https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&amp;v=c9hkcDjotWk</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/c9hkcDjotWk" width="500"></iframe></p><p> <iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/c9hkcDjotWk" width="500"></iframe></p>
<p>Wow, flashing back to 1968, high school chemistry class... my project was a &quot;Flame Speaker&quot; from an article in Popular Electronics, as I recall. Plasma created by wicking a potassium chloride (I'm pretty sure...) solution into a Bunsen burner flame, as high as it would go. Worked fine at home as a tweeter with my Fender guitar amp's speaker output to bare copper wire electrodes spaced above each other in the flame! Lugged the amp to class, set it up... and the flame wiggled and danced so much due to the room's A/C's fan blowing that it only squeaked once and blew the speaker fuse! Went back after school, turned the A/C off, and proved to the teacher that I wasn't &quot;blowing smoke.&quot; I imagined that a columnar flame of 24&quot; or more would lower the freq response range, but between music, girls, and cars, I never messed with it again. Thanks, Plasmana. :-)</p>
Reminds me of the OLD IONOVAC speaker...<br>Since nobody mentioned hazards except getting killed be high voltage here it goes..<br>OZONE GOOD. UV GOOD its all good.
<p>Gotta try to make one of these someday! nice 'ible!</p>
I cant get frequency modulation for lower frequency what shud I use I used 47nf 2kv capacitor
Hi dude! Thats realy work after i use filtered supply. When i use just diode and transformer dond work well.. good intructs!!!
<p>I've built it but I was wondering if you could measure how much current it draws since the power supply that I was using has now passed away ;( RIP Power supply</p>
<p>This seems little bit risky type of thing.</p>
Tesla would be wicked proud.
<p>will a center tap 12-0-12 flyback work?</p>
<p>hey!!!<br>can i convert a tattoo gun into one of these?</p>
<p>So fantastic! But I am a little confused that, the TL494 has 16 pins, where the second and tenth pins go??? Thanks!</p>
<p>In the schematic it says 47nF 2kV which you corrected to be 47uF 250V, but in the parts list it says 47nF 250V, so is it 47uF or 47nF? Thanks</p>
<p>I used 47nF 2kV.</p>
<p>Is there anybody still online? </p>
<p>I like the design and may attempt something similar sometime, however I did notice one thing in the schematic that would perhaps explain why the mosfet was getting so hot. there is no gate to ground resistor, meaning that the gate goes from 12v to 12v and high impedence when it should be going from high to low. the tl494 has an essentially open emitter output to the mosfet, otherwise I like the idea of using dead time control as modulation, very cool. </p>
<p>What's your solution to the heat problem? Just putting a resistor from gate to ground? </p>
<p>Also, read the datasheet for the tl494, it will show that the gate driving pin is an &quot;open source connected transistor&quot; (google it if you want to) and my previous comments will make sense. </p>
<p>There is probable a pull down resistor in the tl494 or the mosfet gate, thus the circuit works in the first place, however the mosfet is probably switching slowly or partially, due to the high driving impedance on a low impedance gate. If the gate to ground resistor doesn't work, try heat sinking the mosfet along with it. I reccommend a resistor value of around 100-1000 ohms, try 1000 first. </p>
<p>the 22k potentiometer controls the duty cycle or the power supplied to the flyback</p>
<p>Thats helpful<br><br></p>
Alright. So i built this with blind luck (Many of the projects i try to replicate fail in some way shape or form...) And well, i was surprised it actually worked! The shock was electrifying!! (No pun intended) But alas, i do have an issue. <br> When i powered it on, it worked at an extremely high frequency, but even worse, it blew out my power supply! Now, this was an older power supply i scavanged from a satellite dish box or something (It had +5 +12 +22 and +30 which was much better than my ATX, considering it only goes up to +12 volts...) This being the first time trying it out, i thought maybe it was a bad power supply that was already bad, i just finished it off. I was wrong. I pulled out my 12 volt SLA battery, to use that instead. Not sure if it was the power supply's fault last time, i decided to only turn it on for a few seconds. The cable leading to the board got really hot, the battery got warm (Uh oh...) and the mosftet got hot to the touch; Only in a matter of seconds! Thankfully, the battery is still ok at the time of writing, but what would be the cause of such an issue? I am thinking it may be shorting somewhere, but looking with my multimeter i dont seem to find any errors. Only the mosfet and the power cables get extremely warm as far as i know. Any ideas? Great 'able BTW, was very easy to follow and understand.
UPDATE: Alright, so i swapped out all the wires with 14 gauge wire, which by the way is complete overkill, and tried using an ATX power supply. The ATX didn't even try powering it, being way too high of a current for it to do anything... <br>Any idea why this is happening?!

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