Step 9: Enjoy and impress your friends!

Well, there is the instructions to make your own Plasma Speaker! Go ahead and pump in your favorite music then listen and watch the arc dance with the music and admire what you had built...

Then show it to your friends and family, I can guarantee you they will be greatly impressed.

When my Dad first saw my plasma speaker in operation, his first words about it are: "What the f... Tha... Thats impossible." He is wrong, nothing is impossible... Nothing.

<p>Hey, how do you think we could go about the build if we replace some of these components with a CFL driver? Is it feasible? </p>
<p>Cool! but what's the use of the diode in parallel with the mosfet? </p>
<p>in my opinion it isnt really needed as mosfets have diodes built into them anyways </p>
To help absorb emf puose in the oposite polarity, to protect misfet<br>
<p>Just curious, is it possible to modify an electric arc lighter to do this same thing?</p>
Hi, i have a problem. I also built this speaker, but when i start it, my mosfet instantly dies :) i tried to take a pulldown resistor, but it also doesnt work. Could anybody help me?
Dear Plasmana, <br> <br>I used my plasmaspeaker for over a year now but I have a problem. <br>I always used a laptop power supply (90 watt) for the flyback transformer and last week I bought a heavyduty power supply (50 volt/16 amps, 800VA) and now I killed my MOSFET (IRF640). My question is; wich MOSFET can I use for pulling a few hundred watts without killing it. The max the IRF640 took was 26 volts and about 3.80 amps (at 30 volt and 4 amps it blew up). I had a 2SK1082 MOSFET laying arround but that doesnt work very well. I got a very little arc from that one. <br> <br>Please help me, I really need a MOSFET that can handle much more current/voltage and still give a nice big fat arc from the flyback. <br> <br>Greetings, <br>Jochem
<p>irf3205 it has 110 amps of current handling and 55 volts</p>
I gave eight of those, they can make 7&quot; arcs when used in this circuit at 40 volts, 30 amps
<p>there made for car batteries</p>
It's not really about the MOSFET handling current but rather the switching. Get some IRF540's on Ebay for about a dollar a piece and they're 100V, 30A.
Thnx for the reply,<br> I got 2 irfb20n50k's now. 500V 20A and I guess they can handle 280 watt at 25 degrees celcius. Atleast that is what I read in the datasheet. :) This MOSFET works great at 35V and 3.4A but I don't want to blow it up, haha. Got a 50V 16A (800VA) toroidal transformer attached to it with a variac and a 100V 22000uF capacitor.<br> This MOSFET don't get that hot with a CPU cooler attached to it and I got a pretty long and loud arc. But I guess the MOSFET can handle even more! :)<br> Here is a movie of my power supply and plasma speaker (only on 25V) :p<br> <div> <iframe frameborder="0" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/XtfuMuHwWTk?rel=0" width="640"></iframe></div>
Sweet setup and spark! =)<br>When ever I bother myself to make another of these I think I'm gonna add a 148watt Peltier cooler. Might help those poor MOSFETS from dying? =)
good idea about using a cooler but one side of them gets really hot so your just moving the problem. im probably wrong. will the cool side being heated by the MOSFET cancel out the other side from overheating.
<div> Hey Crimson-Deity,<br> Here is just another video of my plasma speaker at 34 volt this time.<br> The arc is now longer and louder! :)<br> I will probably crank the voltage up some more in the near future, but I really hope I don't pop the MOSFET. :P<iframe frameborder="0" height="315" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/YvvjjsOXlFk" width="560"></iframe></div>
Thnx, I still need to build the variac, bridge rectifier and capacitor in a box :) <br>And maybe I will build a volt and amp meter in it aswell. Looks alot better then a separate volt and amp meter if u ask me! :) <br>I bought this stuff a week ago so that's why it lays all over the floor. :p <br> <br>About dying of MOSFETS, I guess if u stay in the voltage, amps and watt range of what they can handle, u will be fine and keep them cool as possible. :)
how much current requirement of FB transformer...?
how much current requirement of FB transformer?
Hi, 47nf capacitor or 47uf capacitor?
<p>i made it~ but it doesn't work.<br>i think that there isn't enough power to drive the flyback transformer.<br>how can i get the power to drive the flyback transformer?<br>can i use a switching power supply to provide enough power to the flyback transformer?</p>
<p>Wow. Completely impractical but completely awesome. I so wish I had the time to build one.</p>
<p>&quot;Here's a video of the arcs.&quot;</p><p>Click on play and get &quot;THIS VIDEO IS PRIVATE&quot; = B.S. </p><p>WHY even have this on the pages?? </p><p>https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&amp;v=c9hkcDjotWk</p><p><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/c9hkcDjotWk" width="500"></iframe></p><p> <iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/c9hkcDjotWk" width="500"></iframe></p>
<p>Wow, flashing back to 1968, high school chemistry class... my project was a &quot;Flame Speaker&quot; from an article in Popular Electronics, as I recall. Plasma created by wicking a potassium chloride (I'm pretty sure...) solution into a Bunsen burner flame, as high as it would go. Worked fine at home as a tweeter with my Fender guitar amp's speaker output to bare copper wire electrodes spaced above each other in the flame! Lugged the amp to class, set it up... and the flame wiggled and danced so much due to the room's A/C's fan blowing that it only squeaked once and blew the speaker fuse! Went back after school, turned the A/C off, and proved to the teacher that I wasn't &quot;blowing smoke.&quot; I imagined that a columnar flame of 24&quot; or more would lower the freq response range, but between music, girls, and cars, I never messed with it again. Thanks, Plasmana. :-)</p>
Reminds me of the OLD IONOVAC speaker...<br>Since nobody mentioned hazards except getting killed be high voltage here it goes..<br>OZONE GOOD. UV GOOD its all good.
<p>Gotta try to make one of these someday! nice 'ible!</p>
I cant get frequency modulation for lower frequency what shud I use I used 47nf 2kv capacitor
Hi dude! Thats realy work after i use filtered supply. When i use just diode and transformer dond work well.. good intructs!!!
<p>I've built it but I was wondering if you could measure how much current it draws since the power supply that I was using has now passed away ;( RIP Power supply</p>
<p>This seems little bit risky type of thing.</p>
Tesla would be wicked proud.
<p>will a center tap 12-0-12 flyback work?</p>
<p>hey!!!<br>can i convert a tattoo gun into one of these?</p>
<p>So fantastic! But I am a little confused that, the TL494 has 16 pins, where the second and tenth pins go??? Thanks!</p>
<p>In the schematic it says 47nF 2kV which you corrected to be 47uF 250V, but in the parts list it says 47nF 250V, so is it 47uF or 47nF? Thanks</p>
<p>I used 47nF 2kV.</p>
<p>Is there anybody still online? </p>
<p>I like the design and may attempt something similar sometime, however I did notice one thing in the schematic that would perhaps explain why the mosfet was getting so hot. there is no gate to ground resistor, meaning that the gate goes from 12v to 12v and high impedence when it should be going from high to low. the tl494 has an essentially open emitter output to the mosfet, otherwise I like the idea of using dead time control as modulation, very cool. </p>
<p>What's your solution to the heat problem? Just putting a resistor from gate to ground? </p>
<p>Also, read the datasheet for the tl494, it will show that the gate driving pin is an &quot;open source connected transistor&quot; (google it if you want to) and my previous comments will make sense. </p>
<p>There is probable a pull down resistor in the tl494 or the mosfet gate, thus the circuit works in the first place, however the mosfet is probably switching slowly or partially, due to the high driving impedance on a low impedance gate. If the gate to ground resistor doesn't work, try heat sinking the mosfet along with it. I reccommend a resistor value of around 100-1000 ohms, try 1000 first. </p>
<p>the 22k potentiometer controls the duty cycle or the power supplied to the flyback</p>
<p>Thats helpful<br><br></p>
Alright. So i built this with blind luck (Many of the projects i try to replicate fail in some way shape or form...) And well, i was surprised it actually worked! The shock was electrifying!! (No pun intended) But alas, i do have an issue. <br> When i powered it on, it worked at an extremely high frequency, but even worse, it blew out my power supply! Now, this was an older power supply i scavanged from a satellite dish box or something (It had +5 +12 +22 and +30 which was much better than my ATX, considering it only goes up to +12 volts...) This being the first time trying it out, i thought maybe it was a bad power supply that was already bad, i just finished it off. I was wrong. I pulled out my 12 volt SLA battery, to use that instead. Not sure if it was the power supply's fault last time, i decided to only turn it on for a few seconds. The cable leading to the board got really hot, the battery got warm (Uh oh...) and the mosftet got hot to the touch; Only in a matter of seconds! Thankfully, the battery is still ok at the time of writing, but what would be the cause of such an issue? I am thinking it may be shorting somewhere, but looking with my multimeter i dont seem to find any errors. Only the mosfet and the power cables get extremely warm as far as i know. Any ideas? Great 'able BTW, was very easy to follow and understand.
UPDATE: Alright, so i swapped out all the wires with 14 gauge wire, which by the way is complete overkill, and tried using an ATX power supply. The ATX didn't even try powering it, being way too high of a current for it to do anything... <br>Any idea why this is happening?!

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