Step 2: Soldering the MP2307

The red marking numbers shown connectivity between the SOIC pad and Flower pad. Non-plated pad design make pads on different layer is independent. Please note that the SOIC pad  connect with bottom layer flower  pad. You need to make via if you want to connect top and bottom layer pad. The method will be mentioned below.
Wow, I'm impressed - what a great way to make a PSU!<br><br>Never heard of or seen flower board before - what a brilliant invention. Makes me want to build stuff.
How so? It's very large and costly for what it is, and due to component choices (mounting angles, relative height and positioning, it does not integrate well into an enclosure.<br><br>To be fair the protoboard is an interesting design for its flexibility in laying out circuits without jumpers, to speed up construction some.
Fair point - I only looked through very briefly before posting my original comment. What I meant was that I didn't know that for a hobbyist/amateur there was a simple way to make an adjustable buck converter, and for the DIY'er the circuit is an efficient alternative to linear PSU's, so to me from that perspective it looks great. I didn't look at the prices of any of the parts. Following on from your other comment I had a look on eBay for &quot;MP2307&quot; and found lots of converter modules using the chip going pretty cheap, but not the chips themselves. Digital panel voltmeter modules are pretty cheap too.<br><br>I like the flowerboard because it looks like a good way to make prototypes using smd's - and since my main source of components is from scrap, I have an increasing number of these. It doesn't look to be available in the UK though.<br><br>As you say though, now I've looked more closely, it does have a spammy feel.
How many watts can this handle?
It should be noted that in the parts list, &quot;some capacities and some capacities&quot; actually means 4 resistors, 1 inductor, 2 electrolytic capacitors, and 3 (usually film or ceramic type) capacitors.<br><br>It is a fair project to build, but it also feels a little like spam since this project was developed for the Elecfreaks website, posted there, posted here by a member named Elecfreaks, and uses not one or two but links four products Elecfreaks sells.<br><br>Lastly, it seems the total cost for this project, including ordering the other (more) parts elsewhere and shipping for everything, will slightly exceed $30 USD. That's quite a lot to pay for a low current power supply subcircuit (still needing to supply input power and support parts to do so), I'm fairly confident people could buy something equivalent or higher in functionality for half the cost if not less on eBay, probably even already built.<br><br>On a side note, if they are going to sell these protoboards which can't easily be sawed down to the smaller size because of the multi-layer design which could short out as a result, it would at least be good if Elecfreaks sourced and sold project cases that were an exact fit as there are many situations where an application calls for a little bit of protection for the construction instead of only a bare circuit board with components on it.
I'm really digging on the proto-board: double-sided for the hobbyist!<br><br>Your design is a voltage regulator which mostly works for this application. Far superior would be a current regulator as LED's are current-driven devices. The problem I foresee is that as time passes or temperature changes the LED's operating voltage will vary slightly.<br><br>Let's say it is running happily at 5 watts at 3.7 volts today. At that point on the voltage/current curve, it would need to draw about 1.3A. At 3.8 volts, the current draw may be 2.5 amps, though &mdash;&nbsp;9.5 watts. If the LED's voltage characteristics changed slightly (i.e. the 3.8 volt/2.5 amp point &quot;slid down&quot; to 3.7 volts but still 2.5 amps) &mdash;&nbsp;which they do over time or with changing temperature &mdash;&nbsp;then your supply would stay at 3.7 volts but now supply 2.5 amps and burn out the LED.
There are allot of things that I'm going to use this idea w/ thanks :-D

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