- Steel scourer
- Universal Solvent
- Synthetic cloth (not release hairs, balls, or lint)
- Paint nail remover (containing acetone)
- Hydrogen peroxide 110 volumes
Step 1: Clean With Steel Scourer
Clean heavy all zones and corners with steel scourer
it's very important for remove all dirty and solids micro materials
Step 2: Clean With Scarf
This step is important to thoroughly clean and remove any grease or adhesive layers or particles
Step 3: Clean With Synthetic Cloth
It is a good idea to use cloth or synthetic suede, textile and it does not leave residues or lint Soludos.
I do this because the passage of minutes the dust content of the air (and sometimes do your eye not see) goes keeping in our pcb board.
A speck of dust can ruin the line of a track, or break any letters or words.
Step 4: Acetone Step
With paper with draw of laser printer made, put flat over circuit board.
Then apply acetone finger draws, as if it were a finger brush, ensuring that the paper will be stuck on the board.
When acetone is in the process of drying and is still wet, rub gently to remove some layers of paper, to make the cut in a thin paper. (extreme care not to break or remove all layers)
Step 5: Bleach Step
Put in a bowl some very hot water (not boiling need)
Squirt of bleach (no need to calculate, the amount is not important)
Leave the board in water until cool.
I discovered this mysterious process with bleach.
Bleach helps the paper breaks down and peels off, and at the same time for reasons unknown causes the toner harden and stick better to board.
This step is key if you are using a normal plain paper.
If you skip this process, then the paper is not well off or cellulose trace prevent the good quality of the final attack.
If you not desire this step, then you need a special paper (like transfer paper and iron process)
Step 6: Wash the Plate With Water and Give Off the Scraps of Paper
Although bleach paper softens and melts, it does not release all of it.
With help of water and fingers, gently we get the paper is left.
For those who are habitual method of the laser&iron, they will realize with this new method, which in this step of washing with water, paper will not caught, is like a paste that goes almost without rubbing.
Step 7: Copper Corrosion Step
Search an airy and safe, and mixed in similar proportions:
- 1 part of cold water
- 1 part hydrocloric acid
- 1 part hydrogen peroxide 110 volumes
By immersing the board in this mixture will begin copper corrosion, and only where it is not covered by the drawing.
DO NOT BREATHE THIS GASES EVOLVED, IS VERY TOXIC
If the process is long and there are only small areas of copper, it is better to withdraw (a very long time can attack the copper even in drawing zones)
If when finished some areas of copper were not removed, we can attack it manually and separately, placing some acid in these parts using a napkin or cotton.
We can put and leave some acid over, or we can do with worthless acid to flick (as a woman when makeup powder is placed on the face), this action makes the copper will corrode quickly in that area where we are playing with the wet paper.
To finish clean with watter to stop attack
Step 8: Testing
With candles you can see the true opacity of copper and work quality.
It must not display any details light or transparency. A slight transparency or pores in a track, can cause problems of electrical conductivity or problems in the welding operation.
Step 9: Finished
This method allows you to make an accurate and quality work quickly and easily.
In the next step you can see more examples.
Step 10: More Samples
This is more samples with the same method
You can see more info in:
And video in: