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Build Garage Work Table With Attached Shelves

Picture of Build Garage Work Table With Attached Shelves
This is my first Instructable and one of my first projects I have done on my own. I believe it turned out very well but I did make a few little mistakes. My goal was to build work table for my wife and I to use for medium duty work. In other words it will easily hold 30 pounds and large objects but I don't think it would stand up too well to a lot of hammering and very heavy objects.

The table work surface is 30 inches off the ground. The table surface is 3 feet deep and 4 feet wide. The legs are 2x4s. The back legs extend up through the desk to use as the supports for the shelves.

Below is the finished work table.
 
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Step 1: Tools and Materials

Tools
Table Saw
Miter Saw
Jigsaw
Drill
Level/Square
Tape Measure

Materials
Approximately 30 feet of 2x4's (4 8 foot long 2x4's)
3x4 feet of plywood for table surface
1x4 feet of plywood for one shelf (double for two shelves)
2x4 feet of pegboard
3.5 inch wood screws
1.5 inch wood screws (for shelves and pegboard)

Step 2: Build Front and Back Leg Frames

Picture of Build Front and Back Leg Frames
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I built the frame for the back legs first using 2 4 foot long 2x4's with 2 43 inch long 2x4 horizontal pieces to hold it together. Note that this is 43 inches and not 48 inches long. This allows a 2.5 inch overhang of the table surface. The lower horizontal is 7 inches (check) above the ground (measure from the bottom of the 2x4) and the upper horizontal is 30 inches above the ground (measured from the top of the 2x4). I then used 30 inch 2x4's for the front with only one horizontal support set 30 inches high. The lower support on the front frame was left off to create leg room.

Step 3: Connect Front and Back Leg Frames

Picture of Connect Front and Back Leg Frames
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I cut and then predrilled and then prescrewed all the front to back horizontal supports. I then used clamps and help from my wife to hold everything up while the supports were screwed on. The front to back supports are 33 inches long and 31.5 inches long. The two longer ones go top. The two shorter ones are for the bottom supports. Again note that these are not 36 inches long to allow for a 3 inch overhang of the table surface in the front. The missing 1.5 inch on the lower supports was removed because there is no front bottom support.

Note that when attaching the front to back horizontal supports watch that your 3.5 inch long screws do not hit each other.

Step 4: Prepare Table Surface

Picture of Prepare Table Surface
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For the table surface I had to use one 2x4 foot sheet and one 1x4 foot sheet of plywood. The smaller sheet was just a 2x4 foot sheet cut in half length wise to give me the 3 foot deep table. If you have access to a 4x4 foot sheet of plywood just cut off a foot.

I used the 1x4 foot sheet of plywood for the back half of the table. I used a skillsaw to cut out the notches to allow the legs through. I should have cut the notches to fit around the back legs so that it would look a little nicer.

Step 5: Add Shelves

Picture of Add Shelves
I ended up using metal shelf supports that you should be able to find and most hardware stores. I am sure you could also use L brackets if you wanted to.

The vertical plywood is not attached. It is there as a place holder for my last minute idea to add a peg board. You can use that to hang tools and supplies.

Step 6: Attach Pegboard

Picture of Attach Pegboard
I attached a 2x4 foot sheet of pegboad to the back of the 2x4s supporting the shelves with screws. I did not cut the pegboard down to exactly fit the width of the table. It is over hanging the sides by a few inches.

Step 7: The Finished Product

Picture of The Finished Product
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 Everything is done.
jforester11 year ago
Just finished mine yesterday, only changes were I ran my pegboard to the top of back legs, also I put pegboard on the outside both left and right and screwed it to the upper and lower 2 x 4 side frame boards, then added two pretty heavy coats of polyurethane to the table top to keep plywood from sticking up and to liquid proof it so it wouldn't stain the top. The only other idea is maybe adding my last bit of pegboard to cover the inside back wall. I'll just cut it to width and heighth and screw it to the top and bottom frame boards, I also routered the shelves and the table top. Anyway nice idea, I just made a few small changes. Any questions just holler at me..

JEFF F.
Elk City, OK
lilchumy2 years ago
So about how much money did this cost you?
Eh Lie Us!2 years ago
Great looking doggie!
eranox4 years ago
Am I really the first to comment?

This looks like a fantastic work table, and is just what I need for my shop. It's easy, inexpensive, and useful, which meets all three of my requirements. I like that it features both shelves and pegboard storage. I'll likely throw a sheet of plywood over the stretcher boards underneath the main work table to give myself additional storage for large tools. I may also add additional support boards under the work surface so that the table might handle a bit more weight.

The lower shelf looks like a good place to add a cheap shop light, and I'll probably add a few electrical outlets and maybe an air hose coupling at the back of the table so that I don't have to fool with getting behind the table to plug and unplug my power and air tools. This is a great project, and has tons of potential for customization. Thanks for the great 'ible!
stidem (author)  eranox4 years ago
Yep, you were the first to comment.

Before I built this work table I actually built a very similar workarea to this that was workbench height. I put a sheet of plywood underneath just like you said. I also placed another 2x4 along the bottom to give more support for the heavy items I placed on there.
do the legs fold or does the table fold
stidem (author)  yousuffarooq4 years ago
Neither the legs or table fold. I would imagine that a few well placed hinges and a locking mechanism could make it foldable.