DRILLING THE HOLES Now is a good time to drill the holes for the neck, pick up rings, bridge, string furreles, the control plate and cavity. Here is where I wish I had a drill press but I don't, so I just use a hand held drill. It doesn't matter wher you start drilling you holes, just make sure you use the right size bit for the screws that you will put in them later. To figure this out I compare the thickness of the screw minus the threading. A good rule of thumb is to start off with a bit that will produce a hole that is smaller than the screw. If the hole is too small when you try to screw in the screw then you can move up to the next size bit an re-drill. Be careful of the depth that you drill you hole to as well. A good way to do this is to size up the screw with the bit and mark the bit with a peice of tape. This will help you to keep from going to deep.

DRILLING THE NECK HOLES ON THE BODY Before you do this you can carve down the back of the neck area if that is something you were going to do. If you are just going to leave it flat then that's ok too. The first step if you are using furreles is to map out where you want to place them and then mark the center of the hole where the screw will go. Then take your forstner bit drill enough to fit the furrele inside. Usually you can tell how deep to go if you drill a little at a time, and place the furrele in it to see if it is just low enough in the hole not to see the top of it if you look at the body horizontally or it is flush with the wood. After doing this you can drill the holes for the screws. Use a bit that has the same circumference as the screw including the threading so when you put the scre into the hole it just passes through with out you having to screw it in. Drill in the indention that was left by the tip of the Forstner bit, keeping the drill as straight as possible.

ATTACHING AND DRILLING THE NECK For this you will want to use a clamp to hold the neck firmly in place while you dril the holes. Attach the neck to the body and clamp it lightly so you can set it in the right possition before drilling. Make sure you have some protection between the clamp and the body so you don't leave any indentions in the wood. A soft piece of plastic or a soft rag will work nicely. Use a long ruler to allign the neck to the position of the bridge. Do this on both sides of the neck to see that you get it centered. Tighten down the clamp a bit more until the neck doesn't move. Drill the holes as straight as possible with a smaller bit that you used on the body. If you can't reach all of the spots that you need to drill at because the clamp is in the way, take a couple of the furreles and neck screws and screw them into the neck. Once you have done this you can finish drilling the other holes with out the clamp.

SHAPING THE BODY This is totaly up to you. You can carve down the body however you want. For my project I chose to carve down the body as close to the way the guitar I was modeling it after was. I used a verity of different sanders. I used a belt sander for the arm contour on the top back of the guitar, a dremmel tool with a sanding attachment for the small carve down under the neck, a 6" sanding disk attachment on my drill for the body contour on the back of the guitar, and a Black and Decker mouse sander for the neck area and smoothe down of all the other areas that had previously been carved. One rule of thumb is to only sand with a 220 grit when carving the body down. This will prevent any deep scratches any lower grit will cause. Don't use any electric sander on the falt parts of the guitar either, like the top or the back. Use a 220 grit paper with a sanding block to smooth out those areas. You can also run a slightly dampened cloth along the surface of the body and let dry before the final hand sanding. This will raise the small grains in the wood so they can be cut by the paper easier. Sand in the direction of the grain.

FINISH DRILLING THE HOLES After you have shaped and carved the body and the neck holes are drilled and the cavities routed out, you can preposition all of you parts and drill the last of the holes. Start with the pickup rings. It is good to assemble them first and then drop them into the cavity so you can line them up and mark where you will need to drill. Make sure they aren't crooked when you line them up. I like to have the neck bolted on so I can line them up with it. I do the same thing with the bridge. Be sure to check that the scale length is correct and that it is lined up with the neck as well. Drill the holes for the mounting screws and then the string through holes. Try to keep the drill as straight as possible when you do this because you will be going all the way through the body and if they aren't straight you will see it on the other side. This is the time that I wish I had a drill press.
Next you can move on to the holes for the control cavity. Use the washers that come with the electronic components to find out what size bit you will need. I use the 1/2" forstner bit that used on the neck to drill the input jack hole. It makes it straight and smooth.

TEST FIT It is a good idea to go ahead and test fit all the parts on the guitar before you move on to prep and paint to make sure that everything is in the right spot and that there is nothing that needs to be corrected.
<p>Hello everyone. My name is Tyler. I need to install a new tuning system on my Jackson electric guitar. As of right now, it has the Floyd Rose tuning system installed... How do I install a new tuning system, and what kind of setup should I use?</p>
you don't NEED to use the string locks on the neck if you don't want to...<br><br>BTW it's a locking bridge not a tuning system.<br><br>as to tuning one string messing with the other strings' tuning, you can &quot;block&quot; the tremolo...with a wood block. wedge a fittingly sized piece of wood on the outside of the tremolo base under the back cover, on the side opposite of the springs. some people will also advise additionally using all 5 tremolo springs with it (loosen the 'claw' screws to keep the bridge level). tah-dah, now you can tune strings independently.
<p>That's just the same as manufacturing. I'm more of a fan of cigar box diy instruments.</p>
<p>GuitarDiyDude to anwser your question locking tuners lock your strings down so they stay in tune when you do bends unlike regular tuners where they have a problem of going out of tune when you bend your string when you are doing licks and bending strings!! Mini tuners is what gibson come out with its like tuning for dummies,you select standard tuning and strum all 6 strings and it tunes all 6 simutaneously for you!! So i hope thathelps you,Guitargod6666!!!!!!</p>
<p>I am interested in making an electric guitar and I was wondering what a locking tuner does that regular tuners don't. Ideally I would go for some Tronical tuners (they make Gibsons 2015 mini e-tuners) but the cost &pound;275 odd pounds. They make them for strat style as well if your interested:</p><p><a href="http://www.andertons.co.uk/guitar-parts/pid33170/cid708/tronical-type-c-for-fender-guitars.asp" rel="nofollow">http://www.andertons.co.uk/guitar-parts/pid33170/c...</a></p><p>Thanks</p>
Total cost????
Did you run a ground to your bridge on these? I'm doing a p90 setup. I'm using shielding paint but didn't know if it were necessary to ground as well. Don't really wasn't to have to drill that hole. <br><br>Also, BVB, this should work for bass as well.
Hey. Do u think that I could use this tutorial for a bass and just us bass neck, strings etc...
<p>Thanks for this, tons of useful info! </p><p>I've been trying to make a ceramic guitar body but I'm not sure how to pre-plan for wiring and electronics. Any suggestions? Attached are pics of my 'sketch' attempt. I've made a mold so the shape will be relatively the same. </p>
<p>Hi Matt,</p><p>I have made dozens of molds and tooling parts over the years. What I would do with a ceramic part is insert flexible tubing where the wiring would go. then I would pull it out after the part was made.</p>
awesome, thanks for sharing
<p>How do you do kind of like a Zebra pattern for the guitar.What do you mix on with the paint?</p>
Very good instructable.<br /> I build this one myself when I was 15. I wasn't alowed to buy one, so I asked my parents &quot;what if I build one myself?&quot; They said &quot;OK&quot;, but they thought I couldn't do it. Man, were they wrong... :)<br />
<em><strong>AWSUM GEETAR DUDE!</strong></em>
<p>email me to a killer supremely awesome guitar dude!!! &quot;vampire guitar&quot; j. ghostr@shaw.ca </p>
How much round about did that cost you? I have a guitar but I get bored easy and it'll be nice to actually build one myself
To be honest, I don't know. It was almost 40 years ago. <br>I only know that it wasn't half as much as a good ready made guitar would have costed me. <br>Later on I bought me a couple of other guitars. Not that my own build wasn't good enough, but just because I happened to love the ones I bought. <br>And to have a spare one of course... :-) <br>One of those, a guitar made by hand by a professional guitar builder, cost me a minimum of 4 times more than the one I put together myself. <br> <br>Maybe you could make a list of the things you need and look around in the guitar shop. You have a good chance of finding all the pieces in a shop that has a repair service. <br>For the wood, you can inform yourself at the local carpenter's. Maybe they have some leftovers they don't use anymore. If you're lucky, you can get that for free. Just check the quality of the wood. Don't use wood that has cracks in it.
Dear Merlin. <br> <br>I will soon build my own guitar (Im 12) and I have a question will the sound change if i make in the wood a hole to hold or carry the guitar and can i do it if i can that how big does it have to be ? <br> <br>Hope to get your replay as soon as possible. <br> <br>Max. <br> <br>
You can build a guitar in any shape you want. <br>Have a look at some of the guitars from different stars around; You'll see many different shapes, some even with a hole in the body to 'carry' the guitar. <br>Make the hole the size it needs to be so your fingers easily fit into it. <br> <br>As you can read in the comment of zenguitar below, it might change the sound. <br>I realy don't know how much that change would be. <br> <br>I have a question for you: <br>You write that you're 12, but your profile says you're 19. <br>Lost count over the years? ;)
Im 15 and i am wanting to build a guitar.. What kind of wood did you use on the body?<br>
Hi there,<br><br>I used Meranti for the body. The neck is made out of beech.<br>Have fun building your own guitar.
Does the shape/material effect the sound?
<br> Just a tiny little bit. Most of the sound is determined by the pickups.<br> If the guitar has a hollow body, the sound is influenced more. Especially if you play with a microphone eventually combined with the pickups.<br> That's because with a hollow body the body acts as an amplifier, not so with a solid guitar.<br> Since this is a solid guitar, the sound influence of the wood is practically zero.<br> The different woods give different looks, that's their main influence. ;)<br>
I'm sorry to disagree Merlin, but the woods used really do make a big difference to the sound of a solid body guitar. Both the neck and body are resonators, the string energy drives the woods which damp some frequencies and use that energy to emphasise the resonant frequencies. That drives the string's vibration through the bridge/nut/fretboard. It's a feedback loop.<br><br>That is why pick-up manufacturers are always careful to explain that their pick-ups will sound different depending on the woods and construction of a guitar. Seymour Duncan (among many others) has written about this a lot, a you can read more on the Seymour Duncan website. You can also study more at the FRETS website, GAL (The Guild of American Luthiers), StewMac, and LMI (Luthier's Mercantile International).<br><br>You are correct, insofar as the pick-up can only pick up the string vibrations. But those vibrations are substantially modified by the materials and construction. In an acoustic the hollow box is the amplifier in combination with the height of the saddle, but the tone comes from the woods by a similar mechanism to that of the solid body guitar.<br><br>Andy
does it make any diference on the finish i want to use danish oil on my first guitar <br>will that change how it will sound
The way a finish can change the sound is when it forms a rigid, hard, shell that damps the vibrations of the woods. So a good finish for a musical instrument is one that allows the woods to vibrate freely but still offers good protection.<br><br>The good news is that an oil finish is a very good option for finishing a guitar, and a lot of guitarists actually prefer the oiled finish on the neck. Danish Oil and Tung Oil are both suitable for a guitar. So if you are happiest using Danish Oil, go ahead.<br><br>One oil finish that many luthiers use and recommend is Tru-Oil, which was originally formulated for finishing gun stocks. It is the oil finish that Luthier's Mercantile carries, and if you Google for Tru-Oil you will find plentry of information about using it on guitars including some very good instructions. And those instructions will help you with Danish Oil as well.<br><br>And congratulations on making your first guitar, I promise you that you will feel amazing the first time you play it. And every time someone says 'WOW!! You made it yourself?' you will feel great.<br><br>Andy
Thanks Andy for the info <br> I am a machinist i plan on making everthing from the body to the pickups even the tuners so this will take awhile but will be fun <br>thanks vern
Sounds good Vern. I can make truss rods and pick-ups but need to get my machining skills up to speed before tackling tuners and bridges etc, although I am very tempted to learn in the future.<br><br>Being a machinist will be a real advantage for you. The woodwork on guitars is actually pretty basic, but has to be very accurate. Many years ago one of my luthiery teachers described it was working wood to the tolerances usually found in engineering. <br><br>If it helps, Schaller have very accurate drawings of all their hardware on their website. You can also get very good drawings of all Gotoh parts as well, but theirs are harder to find (hidden in the parent company's site and I can't recall the full details). It is worth having a look at those, and pay attention to the way the tuning posts are shaped. That radiused section turned into the post is important , it really helps lock the strings firmly.<br><br>Best of luck and I promise two things. There will be frustrations along the way, but once you are finished it is deeply satisfying.<br><br>Andy
This is true, i made a guitar out of MDF to test this and it sounded terrible
yes different densities in the wood can give different tones
man i wish i could thumbs up this comment!
Very nice. I love wood finished guitars so much more over painted.<br>So much fun to build instruments<br>
&nbsp;SIX PICKUPS!<br /> <br /> I can't even begin to imagine about what that would sound like but I'm sure it would be awesome.
Actually there are only three. They are humbuckers. The white ones I bought, the black one in the middle I made myself with little magnets and thin copper wire (0.2mm&sup2;). The magnets I got out of relays that were no longer used from an old telephone central.<br />
did you actually make your own pick-up??
Yes I did. It's the middle one with the black top.<br> It's not that difficult, but you have to find the right materials.<br> <br> I used a 4 mm thick piece of hardwood to make the base.<br> From twelve relays that came from a no longer used telephone central (many, many years ago) I recycled the magnet shafts (about 4 mm diameter and 3 cm long).<br> I drilled two lines of six holes (it's a humbucker) in the wooden base right at the center of each string and put the magnets in.<br> One row of magnets were put in with the north pole up, the other row with the south pole up.<br> If you cant drill the holes to be just a tiny bit smaller than the magnet shafts, you can apply some glue to it to make sure the magnets are in the holes very tight. They have to be unable to move.<br> The top of the pick-up I made from a 3 mm thick piece of plastic in which I drilled the same holes as in the base to fit the magnets through the plastic. Same goes here about the fitting in the holes.<br> Then I wound very thin (0.02 mm diameter) laquered copper wire around a couple of thick nails that had about the same size as the magnets.<br> These nails I had placed in another piece of wood at the width of the outer magnets.<br> Some 4000 windings go into one spool.<br> Some tape was applied to cover and fasten the copper windings.<br> The second spool was wound in the opposite direction.<br> Next I placed the two spools over the magnets and connected them so that they were connected as serial spools.<br> The start and end of the complete spool went through a 1mm hole in the base and were secured with a drop of glue in the hole.<br> <br> You have to be carefull not to break the wire while winding a spool. If that happens, you have to start over. The spool needs to be in one piece for the best results.<br> <br> I used two ballpoint springs and a couple of metal screws to attach the pick-up to the front plate of the guitar.<br> The screws drive into the wood directly. I drilled a smaller hole and tapped wire in it. Because it is hardwood this works.<br> The springs and the screws make it easy to adjust the height of the pick-up to the strings.<br> <br> That's it for my mini instructable.<br> I don't have any pictures of the works because it was so long ago and instructables.com didn't exist at the time. As a matter of fact there was no internet, nor personal computers at the time either.<br> But I guess everybody understands what I have written here.<br> I bet you can find more info on humbuckers and how they work on the internet. I found my info in some electronics books at the time.
&nbsp;you should put out a pickup making instructable.
That's excellent!!!<br />
This is sick! <br>I love everything about it. Good job Merlin. :)
i herd about some british dude forging aluminum cans&nbsp; to make the guitars body or whatever its called&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; i admire the british culture
Well, maybe he's into soft metal rather than heavy metal... ;-)<br />
lol nice one
<p>If you did build a guitar out&nbsp;of aluminum cans, than why don't you post a pic of one?</p>
I never stated to have build a guitar out of aluminum cans.<br /> Please read the comments and replies in the correct order.<br />
Sorry&nbsp;but you did say &quot; I sure did m8.&quot;
That was about the guitar in the picture I posted. At that time there was no mentioning of the 'canned' guitar...<br />
Sorry but you did say &quot; I sure m8.&quot;

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