Introduction: DIY Vacuum Robot

Picture of DIY Vacuum Robot

This is my first Vacuum Robot, which it's main purpose is to allow anyone to have a cleaning robot without paying so much money, to learn how they work, to build a nice robot that you can modify, update and program as much as you want, and of course to vacuum all that annoying fluff.

This project is intended to be as easy to build as possible since all the elements and parts are easy to find on Digikey, eBay, Amazon, etc.

The whole chassis was designed in Solidworks so that it could be 3d printed.

Currently it uses an Arduino Uno (if you don't like it too much you can easily change it for another micro controller, I decided to use this since my objective is that anyone could actually build it), micro-metal motors, fan propeller, infrared sensors and respective driver modules.

Another one bites the dust!

Step 1: Materials

Picture of Materials

So, first I will define all the materials that I used and later I will suggest other options with a similar behavior.

Controllers:

  • 1 x Arduino Uno Board (or similar) (DigiKey)
  • 1 x IRF520 MOS FET Driver Module (Aliexpress)
  • 1 x H-bridge L298 Dual Motor Driver (Aliexpress)

Actuators:

  • 2 x Micro Metal Gearmotor HP 6V 298:1 (DigiKey)
  • 1 x Micro Metal Gearmotor Bracket Pair (Pololu)
  • 1 x Wheel 42×19mm Pair (DigiKey)
  • 1 x Fan Blower AVC BA10033B12G 12V or similar (BCB1012UH Neato's motor) (Ebay, NeatoOption)

Sensors:

  • 2 x Sharp Distance Sensor GP2Y0A41SK0F (4 - 30cm) (DigiKey)

Power:

  • 1 x ZIPPY Compact 1300mAh 3S 25C Lipo Pack (HobbyKing)
  • 1 x LiPo Battery Charger 3s (Amazon-Charger)
  • 1 x 1k Ohm resistor
  • 1 x 2k Ohm small potentiometer

3d Printing:

  • 3D printer with a minimum printing size of 21 L x 21 W cm .
  • PLA Fillament or similar.
  • If you don't have, you can print your file on 3DHubs.

Other materials:

  • 20 x M3 bolts with (3mm diameter)
  • 20 x M3 nuts
  • 2 x #8-32 x 2 IN bolts with nuts and washer.
  • 1 x Vaccum bag filter (cloth type)
  • 1 x Ball Caster with 3/4″ Plastic or Metal Ball (Pololu)
  • 2 pushbuttons
  • 1 x On/Off Switch

Tools:

  • Screw driver
  • Soldering Iron
  • Pliers
  • Scissors
  • Cable (3m)

Step 2: How Does It Work?

Picture of How Does It Work?

The majority of the vacuums have a motor with a fan. As the fan blades turn, they force air forward, toward the exhaust port. At the exhaust port it has a filter which prevents the dust particles being thrown away again.

How does a vacuum robot work?

The principle is pretty similar but as you can see in the second picture, the fan motor is at the last step which means that the dust is not driven through it. The air that is being sucked is first filtered and then pushed toward the exhaust port.

The main difference between each of the vacuums is that the robot one has a microcontroller and sensors which let the robot make decisions so that it can vacuum your room autonomously. Most of the vacuum robots nowadays have really nice algorithms built-in, for instance, they can map your room so that they can plan a path and perform a faster cleaning. They also have other features like side brushes, collision detection, return to its charging base, etc.

Step 3: About the Ingredients...

Picture of About the Ingredients...

As I said at the beginning, I'm going to explain as much as I can so that anyone can understand, but If you already know the basics, feel free to skip this step.

The Fan

The most important thing of a vacuum is to choose the appropiate fan with a decent CFM (Airflow cubic feet per minute), it is the force of this airflow across a surface that picks up the dirt and moves it to the dust bag or container. Therefore, the more airflow, the better the cleaning ability of the vacuum cleaner [BestVacuum.com]. Most of the big vacuums use more than 60 CFM but since we are using a small battery, we are ok with at least 35 CFM. The AVC fan that I will use has 38 CFM [AVC link] and it actually has a lot of power, but you can use any with the same dimensions (See picture 1).

The Fan Driver

Since we need a way to control whenever the Fan is On or Off, we need a Driver. I will use the MOS-FET IRF520 which basically works as a switch, whenever it receives a signal from the microntroller it will supply the input voltage to the output (Fan).(See picture 2)

The H-Bridge

For the motors we'll need something a bit different from the Fan driver since now we will need to control the direction of each motor. The H-bridge is an array of transistros which allows us to control the current flow, and by controlling that, we will be able to control the motors direction. The L298 is a pretty decent H-bridge that can supply 2A per channel so for our motors it will be perfect! Another example is the L293D but that only gives us 800mA per channel. (The picture 3 depicts the concept of an H-bridge)

Step 4: The Design

Picture of The Design

The design of the robot was done in SolidWorks, it consists of 8 files.

This step was the most time consuming since all the robot was made from scratch considering the bumper, the container, the filter, etc.

The total size of the robot is 210mm x 210 mm x 80mm.

Step 5: 3d Printing

Picture of 3d Printing

The design was done so that all the parts could be 3d printed. In case you don't have a 3d printer, you can use the 3DHubs wherever you are.

The robot consist of 12 parts (it takes a some time). It was printed on a Robo3d R1 plus using Blue Gray Colorfabb filament.

My printing settings were:

  • 0.2 mm layer height
  • 1.2 mm shell thickness
  • 30% fill density
  • 215 C printing temperature
  • 70 C bed temperature
  • Support type everywhere
  • Retraction (Very important!!) 50 mm/s 0.7mm
  • Printing Speed 60mm/s

Before doing all the prints I recommend to print the test samples that I attached so you can calibrate and modify the parameters. I took me a lot of time since the prints are big.

Note: Remove all the support filament with caution.

Look for the files here: Thingiverse Files

Step 6: Setting the Sensors Up

Picture of Setting the Sensors Up

For each of the two sensors I soldered cables but in case you have the connector, you can skip this step.

Once we have the sensors support, we will assembly them as it is showed on the picture above using the M3 bolts. It is important to mention that one sensor should be flipped because it will help us when we assembly them.

Step 7: Connecting the Motors and H-bridge

Picture of Connecting the Motors and H-bridge

The first objects that are going to be mounted, are the motors. Mount them using their brackets.

Once you have set them, you can start mounting the H-bridge as it is showed. After that, we shall start connecting the motors on the dual terminals. Don't worry about how the motors shall be connected, you can connect them in any polarity and we can modify the direction of the motors with the code. They should look like the last image.Mo

Step 8: Mounting the Ball Caster

Picture of Mounting the Ball Caster

The ball caster will help the robot to tilt it to the front so that robot can vacuum much better.

The Pololu Ball Caster has already its bolts but unfortunately they're too large. So, we shall cut them for about 3mm. Use a knife or a saw being really careful.

An image above shows the ideal length of the bolt.

Step 9: The Bumper

Picture of The Bumper

So what happens when the infrared sensors can't see the object?

Well I have designed a bumper so that it can detect when it touched a close object.

The first image shows the concept and the way it shall be connected.

Mount the push button pushButtonSupport and connect it to the small cilinder (see pictures).

Once both of the buttons are mounted, you can paste the bumper (use a small amount of glue).

Note: I will only use one of the buttons since one push button got broken :( But it still works really nice!

Step 10: Connecting the Sharp Sensors

Picture of Connecting the Sharp Sensors

In order to supply the Sensors I made a small board which will supply the power for each of the sensors.

Cut a small surface 3x3 cm then mount the connectors as it is showed on the second picture. Do the proper soldering being careful. Once it is done, mark the board so that you can know the polarity. I use by convention that the right side is always voltage.

Connect the Grounds of each of the sensors and also one terminal of the push button to GND, and the Red wires from the sensors to VCC (Right connectors).

Once they are all connected, fix the wires and set them nicely.

Step 11: Voltage Divider

Picture of Voltage Divider

We need a way to monitor the battery voltage because the if the voltage of a LiPo cell is dropped lower than 3.0 it can permanently damaged it. Our battery is a 3S LiPo battery which means that it has 3 cells of 3.7V each.

Since we can't connect the battery voltage directly to the Arduino (because you will kill the board), we should find a way to proportionally get the voltage of the battery within the range of the ADC (Analog Digital Converter).

Cut 12cm of wire (Red, Black and White. Use always white or other color for signals but not black nor red)

The Voltage Divider will help us to reduce the voltage proportionally and thus we can connect it to one of the analog inputs.

For this we will need to Resistors. R1 and R2. I recommend to use one fixed and the other one use as a potentiometer so you can manipulate your circuit and calibrate it carefully.

Use an R2 of 1k Ohms and set the Potentiometer to 1536 ohms. See the theory behind that so that you can probe the voltages (Or you can trust me Wiki Theory). I set my desired output to be Vout = 5V and my input was the battery voltage when it was fully charged = 12.68 V.

Once you have finished the circuit, test it! Use a Voltmeter and verify that the Vout is actually 5V when your battery is fully charged, otherwise adjust the potentiometer. (Don't set it above 5V or you can kill the Arduino!)

Step 12: Get Your Hands Dirty

Picture of Get Your Hands Dirty

We are going to start connecting a lot of wires right now so we should be really careful or we can make a short circuit.

The Battery will supply 3 different things:

  1. Motors
  2. Fan
  3. Voltage Divider

And everything will be connected to the MOS-FET board (it is not really ideal but it is a thing to improve)

We will need 2 male to male wires one to supply the motors driver and the other for the connector to the switch.

  • 21.5cm Red wire for the motors driver to the MOS-FET
  • 15 cm Red wire with male connector for the switch to MOS-FET

I had to modify the batterys wires since its connector was really big, so I added two new wires, the positive one is a male connector for safety. (see the battery picture)

  1. First we will connect the fan. Cut the wires 12cm length. We will only use the Yellow and the black wires. Connect the Yellow to the V+ and the Black to the V- as it is showed on the picture.
  2. Then we wiil connect 3 red wires to Vin of the MOS-FET: The one of 21.5cm for the H-bridge, the 15cm one for the switch and the Vin for the voltage divider.
  3. Connect the GNDs: Connect the Ground of the battery and the GND of the voltage divider.

See the notes of the pictures for more help.

Make sure everything is well connected! Hold this connection since we are going to use it later.

Step 13: Keep Connecting (Terminals, Fan and Motor Driver)

Picture of Keep Connecting (Terminals, Fan and Motor Driver)

We can start connecting everything together.

Mount the Arduino first with its respective bolt.

Then follow the steps showed on the picture. Connect the Corresponding wires to the terminals.

Place the Fan.

And connect the Voltage divider wire signal to the A4 analog input of the Arduino.

Step 14: Connecting the Motors Signal Inputs

Picture of Connecting the Motors Signal Inputs

We will need 4 wires Male to Female 27cm length because they are to be connected from the Motor Driver to the Arduino pins.

They should be connected to the Arduino inputs 3,5,6 and 9 respectively. (See the pictures for help).

Step 15: Connecting the Sensors to the Microcontroller

Picture of Connecting the Sensors to the Microcontroller

Start connecting the sensors as following:

  • Left Sharp sensor to A0
  • Right Sharp sensor to A1
  • Pushbutton to Digital pin 10

Using female to mal jumpers, connect the Mosfet Terminasl "Signal" and "GND" pins. The signal must be connected to the digital pin 12 and the "GND" pin to one of the Grounds on the Arduino. (See the pictures)

Step 16: Almost Done

Picture of Almost Done

We will need a switch tu turn our robot on so I attached a male and female connectors so that it could be connected to the battery.

I also wanted to use an indicator LED (optional) connected to the digital pin 13 and GND. See the pictures for help.

Step 17: Assembling the Container

Picture of Assembling the Container

Once you have all the Container parts printed we need to assembly it.

Mark the cloth filter to the dimension of the FilterTap then ad 1mm on each side and cut the rectangle.

Joing the pieces as it is showed on the pictures and put the filter inside the containter.

Step 18: Close It!! and Program It!

Picture of Close It!! and Program It!

Close it carefully and make sure everything fits nicely.

You can charge the robot by just pulling the charging cable and connect it directly to the charger without having to take the battery apart from the robot.

I have uploaded an Arduino Code that you can use, it is pretty simple but it works really nice. Download the Arduino IDE, compile the software and program your robot!.

The code includes:

1.- Battery monitor:

* It is constantly measuring the voltage and if the battery voltage is below the threshold it will turn off all the motors and the LED will start blinking.

* When starting it tries to turn on the Fan and if the battery voltage is below the threshold it won't start.

2.- Collision avoidance:

* It measures the distance from the sensors to an object and when it is close it turns to the opposite side.

* It senses when it is on a corner and turn 180 degrees.

* When the bumper touches it turn right.

3.- Fan control

* Turn on/off the fan

4.- Motor control

* With PWM it moves the motors in both directions.

I encourage anyone who wants to improve this to do it and share so that we can enhance our knowledge!

NOTE:

I have added a test code (VaccumCode_test_Motors_1.0.0) to make sure that the motors are wired correctly. If you run this code and the robot is not moving forward you must swap the motor wires on the L298 Driver.

I have also added a Beta Code for side sensors.(VaccumCode_SideSensorsBeta_1.0.0)

Cheers!

-César Nieto

Step 19: What's Next?

What about adding encoders to the motors so that you can predict the position of the robot?

Adding more sensors? you can follow edges to ensure a better cleaning

Mapping? Once you have the encoders you can save the objects that the sensors see and create a map!

This is a nice project to start building complex codes and complex navigation algorithms so I encourage you to do it!

Any suggestions?

Updates:

04/10/2017

  • Code updated to use Pololu motor encoders with PD controller
  • Almost all the code was modified to be more easy to understand

19/05/2017

  • Code updated (just some comments were erased)
  • Circuit diagram added
  • A better explanation for the battery was written

Step 20: Contribute

The project is now available on Github where you can share all your improvements:

https://github.com/cesnietor/VacuumRobot

Comments

filou63430 (author)2017-11-17

https://youtu.be/h_QPO4D5dFw

filou63430 (author)2017-11-17

https://youtu.be/-r5Zucc35mY

filou63430 (author)2017-11-17

https://youtu.be/BeNVHW-ly4k

filou63430 (author)2017-11-16
RemiM12 (author)2017-10-25

Hello, i'm french and i'm trying to build this perfect vacuum robot! Can you say me if they are 6v or 12v motors? because in parts list it seems to be 6v but when i go on digikey, voltage semms to be 12v. Thanks a lot.

CesNieto (author)RemiM122017-10-30

Hi! The pololu motors of 6V can handle 12V but it might affect their lifetime.

I recommend this ones:https://www.pololu.com/product/3056, their extended shaft will help when trying to add the encoders (which I recommend also to buy).

Since they are 12V the current consumption is less.

RemiM12 (author)CesNieto2017-11-02

thanks a lot! do you have solidworks files?

tomasvieira (author)2017-10-23
I've never seen your project it's very good. I built mine based on the roomba 600 series, but you gave me good ideas Congratulations. see my project is still unfinished https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDb9jKlR71I&t=25s
I would like to be able to print in 3d a more robust box, but in my country (Brazil) 3d printing still costs more expensive than an original roomba.
CesNieto (author)tomasvieira2017-10-30

It is actually really nice, the suspension on the wheels looks great. If it is to expensive you can try services like 3dHubs or maybe you can actually find someone who might be up to send you the printed parts for lowcost.

stefanied (author)2017-10-05

CesNieto (author)stefanied2017-10-14

Awesome work! Nice. Your improvements are going really well. The bumper looks better, eventhough is the same principle, it looks that it performs much nicer. Are you doing wall following? Did the encoder code work for you? (I saw that is actually moving straight)

stefanied (author)CesNieto2017-10-16

the wall following is enabled and works great, the encoders i am yet to wire in as i am waiting for 2mm pitch connectors to make it easier to solder as i have nurve trouble which makes for non stedy hands , i reprinted the lower body with a few modifications such as added motor mounts for brushes, your original code for the bumper seems to work better than other methods i tried, 1 idea i had was to add 5 basic ir sensors in between the front sharp sensors but that caused battery drain to the point of no start up from arduino so i used 4 micro switches instead which works.

stefanied (author)2017-10-03

sorry to keep asking things but i have the encoders you recommended, i found the library needs for the sketch but are there and tutorials out there as i can not fimd any for the polou one's or do you have any advice as to implementing them to the main sketch.

thanks

CesNieto (author)stefanied2017-10-04

I have uploaded a new code, I changed a lot of things but I hope you understand everything. The pins for the motors changed and since you are using arduino Mega, you will need to verify the attachinterrupt() because it has different ones. I tested the code with one motor and it works nice, still it can be improved though.

I saw your project on thingiverse and it looks really nice. Cheers!

cnx00x (author)CesNieto2017-10-16

Can i use the new code for adruino uno to get the side Sensord working and both bumpers ?

cnx00x (author)CesNieto2017-10-10

me help please connected everything together when the unit turns on everything works great but the output to the fan motor is only 6 V if I disconnect one of the ground to the board and rhe motors stop the fan is working full blast is that normal ?

CesNieto (author)cnx00x2017-10-14

Hi, make sure that all the connections are ok (like looking for any shorts that might be happening). Check specifically the Motor driver since some jumpers should be connected. It can also be the battery power, if it is not enough current, the voltage will drop. Try to connect each thing separately and add each element at a time. There are so many other things that I would check but I'm assuming that you are using the same fan (consider that some might be broken), and the same drivers (that support the correct current consumption). Sorry for the late response.

cnx00x (author)CesNieto2017-10-14

All good faulty FET Driver Module

cnx00x (author)CesNieto2017-10-10

Some help please connected everything together when the unit turns on everything works great but the output to the fan motor is only 6 V if I disconnect one of the ground to the board and rhe motors stop the fan is working full blast is that normal ?

stefanied (author)cnx00x2017-10-10

i had the same problem so swapped the yellow wire for the red ans it is now 12v

cnx00x (author)stefanied2017-10-10

Yellow wire from the fan?

stefanied (author)cnx00x2017-10-10

when i connected the yellow wire from the fan to the mos it never worked and it turned out that i had to change the fan yellow for the fan red for it to work, if the mos is only out putting out 6v when 2 or more grounds are connected but works when 1 is removed then try remove that ground wire and connect somewhere else but could there be a short elsewhere as something is coursing drain for that to happen

cnx00x (author)stefanied2017-10-10

I’m talking about the output of the mos fet how does change the wire change the voltage output on the mos fet?

stefanied (author)CesNieto2017-10-04

thanks for the code and the one i printed from thingiverse i am using to try other things such as lcd with battery monitor, bumper using limit switches, to which i will eventually upload a video and any files that may be of use to other's, i seem to be hooked on this now as its a good way of learning and has so much potential.

CesNieto (author)stefanied2017-10-03

No worries. For the encoders it needs a bit more of code since they need to use Arduino interrupts and a PID controller. I have a project where I used a similar encoder so let me adapt it to this project and I will reply you soon. You can start by looking at those concepts to try to understand why we need them, you don't need to understand all the theory behind PID controllers, just a bit of intuition.

cnx00x (author)2017-10-14

Complete

CesNieto (author)cnx00x2017-10-14

Great! Do you have any video? YouTube link? Looks really nice though.

cnx00x (author)CesNieto2017-10-15

" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen>

stefanied (author)2017-10-05

i made some positive progress with the bumper by using some 3mm nuts and bolts plus 3x limit switches, wired the same as the tactile switches but all were wired into pin 11 as pin 10 still refuses to work, even with filou63430 updated code but no worries, it all seems to work although i should have made the sensor holes wider.

filou63430 (author)2017-09-28

for activated 2 bumpers

------------------------------------------

// Variables will change:

int bumperState = 0; // variable for reading the pushbutton status

boolean control = true;

int counter = 0; // Prevents from being stuck

int bumperState2 = 0; // variable for reading the pushbutton status

boolean control2 = true;

int counter2 = 0; // Prevents from being stuck

------------------------------------------------------

// initialize the pushbutton inputs

//Bumper

pinMode(bumper1, INPUT_PULLUP);

pinMode(bumper2, INPUT_PULLUP);

--------------------------------------------------------

/////////////////////////////////////////////////MAIN CODE//////////////////////////////

void loop(){

/*

Serial.print("SD1= ");

Serial.print(sdSHARP(SD1));

Serial.println();

Serial.print(" SD2= ");

Serial.print(sdSHARP(SD2));

Serial.println();

delay(200);*/

bumperState = digitalRead(bumper1);

bumperState2 = digitalRead(bumper2);

----------------------------------------------

else if (bumperState==0){//BUMPER1

counter = 0;

backwardMotors(1500); //backward delay of 500ms

leftMotors(400);

Serial.print(" Turn Left ");

}

else if (bumperState2==0){//BUMPER2

counter2 = 0;

backwardMotors(1500); //backward delay of 500ms

rightMotors(400);

Serial.print(" Turn Right ");

}

cnx00x (author)2017-09-19

Where do you connect the second LED?

stefanied (author)cnx00x2017-09-23

cesnieto is right and by making me try do coding myself i then learnt enough of the basics to understand how it all works and because of this i went and purchased arduino programming by simon monk and it all means that i can now write sketch and learn from it, i think this is the idea from this project. if you look through the diferent sections of code then you can see the int, const and how they work and then write some code in those sections but for an led2 and allocate a spare pin, ie pin 7 and 8 are spare, lower down in main code you see the functions for the motors and sensors so add a few lines but for the led like

If the distance between an object and the left front sensor is less than 6.0 cm or the bumper hits, it will move to the left

digitalWrite(led2, HIGH); // set the LED on

delay(300); // set the LED off

digitalWrite(led2, LOW);

if (counter ==2){ // prevent of being stuck on corners

counter = 0;

if you study the code for the functions of sensor 1 and 2 then you can work out code for all sorts of functions to work on this sketch and most other's

hope this helps in some way but up untill 2 weeks ago my knowledge of writing code was zero

CesNieto (author)cnx00x2017-09-20

Hi, the second LED is not connected but you can connect it on a free pin with a resistor 220 or 330 ohms and do some code for it. It is optional.

cnx00x (author)CesNieto2017-09-20

So i can use the code from this site as log as i use pin 10 for the bumper switch and use The correct sharp sensors correct?

anything else i need to know

would you be able to provide the complete code with the second LED function enabled?

CesNieto (author)cnx00x2017-09-21

Yes follow the steps and if you have any doubts, refer to the comments on this site from other users, that might help. The code is complete, it is not necessary to have the second LED unless you want to use it for something. Try to understand the code so that you can see where I'm using it and how to use it. See the Blink example on Arduino, that might help.

cnx00x (author)2017-09-23

Side sensors pin A2 A3 ?

cnx00x (author)2017-09-22

Thanks guys for your help
Construction halfway done Spraypainting the lid at the moment since my printer can only print 200 x 200 I had to print 2 parts and glue them together

filou63430 (author)2017-09-19

Thank you Stefanied I will try this as soon as I will be thank you very well you also install an ir under the correct vacuum is Cool

stefanied (author)filou634302017-09-20

your welcome, i am currently building a second robot vacuum but bigger body, used a mega 2560 as it has more pins and added a voltmeter using a 16x2 i2c lcd mounted on the top and will be adding an extra sensor above the bumper, will be a while before i finish though as i have to get all the parts all over again

filou63430 (author)2017-09-16

Hello nice work stefanied for the moment I think buy ir SHARP I still have the same problem it would be more judicious to use 2 ultrasonic sensor like that more ir and bumper

stefanied (author)filou634302017-09-17

ok, forget thingiverse for code, i managed to send you it in a message instead

stefanied (author)filou634302017-09-16

are you using sharp sensor numbered GP2Y0A41SK0F, i tried GP2Y0A21SK0F and that caused problems but the 2yoa41skof worked great

stefanied (author)filou634302017-09-16

i made a seal ,aka rubber gasket for the motor to sit on. its not very flat on one sit but does squash down nicely and slightly improves the suction, i added 2 two sketches that i use to thingiverse as they would not upload here, although bumper 2 does not seem to do much other than mess with direction, if you succeed in making it work as it should could you please re upload

filou63430 (author)2017-09-16

For the suction actually it will require seals and under the suction motor a ventury system like on the dayson the brushes also I am not available for the moment but I would have wanted the 2bumper active also if you can send me the code I can not do it thank you

stefanied (author)2017-09-15

my ideas and thoughts as follows plus 2 unread comments below this comment,

still use side sensors, these are almost as important as the front,

bolt holes to secure top and bottom better with tubes to which the bolts go through,

choice for lipo or mimh battery but eigther way,more power full,

a form of lcd volt meter digital display,

side brushes such as those from member filou3430,

small bar as shown in one of my pics for air flow to make sure it travels through the dust collector,

add 1mm walls where the sensors shall be to make printing easier, i had problems with parts of print flopping around- an example of this is also on the remix part of your thingiverse page where is designed a bigger body,

make the walls of the robot 2mm or 2.5mm instead of 1.5mm

I have added a few remix's on your thingiverse vacuum robot page as idea's including a redesigned bumper with magnets as support.

stefanied (author)2017-09-11

above, you was asking about any suggestion's, i found out that the buttons fixing to the bumper have a weak spot, mine snapped off and i replaced them but maybe use button magnets in between the bumper and the weak part that presses on the button, all that would happen is the bumper would fall off but not break anything

CesNieto (author)stefanied2017-09-13

Yeah, the bumper can definitely be improved, I saw some issues as well that can be changed like a larger bumper to cover all spots, different batteries like NiMh, a smaller microcontroller, etc.. If you have any idea you can model it and we can discuss it, it would be nice. It is great that you finished your robot! Any video? Congratulations! It would be nice if you try to see all the things that you consider should be improved and write them down for the 2nd version of this robot!

stefanied (author)CesNieto2017-09-13

also to add to the other comment, i added a bar where air could be sucked under the dust box but placed it as seen in the photo

stefanied (author)CesNieto2017-09-13

i am sure i can redesign the bumper and will see what i can come up with for a battery, i will do a video when another lipo charger arrives, i am living in the usa but moving back to the uk soon and gave my friend both my chargers to take back but meant to give only 1, i am also thinking about gaskets to minimise air leakage, maybe printed from ninja flex, a second version would be great, its nice to see it is not a one off project and so much pottential

stefanied made it! (author)2017-09-12

one part of the print got a bit bent out of shape as seen in one pic but it works great, i am impressed that i managed to make something that actually works or i never blew it up, which i appear to be an expert at.

added are 2 side sensors, a second led which lights when a sensor detects and object.

next for me to do is add 2 more sensors and encoders.

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Bio: I studied Digital Systems and Robotics Engineering. Currently I'm working as a Software Engineer. I love to do special projects on my spare time ... More »
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