Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 6Build the Skeleton or Substructure, Connections, etc...
A normally build Pepakura figure or object will support itself. A monumental figure such as this requires some special engineering to create a skeletal support system - without this this figure would have collapsed from it's own weight. I built the support structure within the complete Pepakura forms - this can get a bit tricky:
1) LEGS I started with the legs. Inserting carpet tubes in the legs through holes drilled from the bottom of the sandaled feet, these were inserted and pieces of the honeycomb cardboard were formed to fit around the top of the tubes inside the legs. I then put a 1/4" masonite board cut to fit hot glued onto the sole of each sandal for extra support. (see photos).
2) I then cut some larger diameter cardboard tubing that I slid over the leg tubes, these will be attached to the support structure for the waist of the body to create a connective system.
3) WAIST For the waist area, I build an interior structure within, first forming a honeycomb cardboard shape to fit within the cavity that rests on the crotch area, glued and secured with smaller pieces of board glued above and below where the piece meats the body form. I then formed a box-like structure of the honeycomb board to rest on this platform, this was supported and glued with various pieces attached to the body form. Before this step I also guesstimated the location of the leg support holes by laying the legs on table with the waist form. I built this section thinking about the torso section of course! As such, the support box extends from within the top of the waist section in anticipation.
4) TORSO For the torso section I build another box shape out of the honeycomb board. I first measured inside the completed torso shape then worked on the box - I made this to attach to the waist area support area by making it slight wider than the waist support box so it would slide onto this a bit like a giant sleeve. I then cut two 5/8" dowels and sharpened the ends to insert through scored holes to attach the sections together. Once the box was attached, I slid the torso over this form, trimming the box as needed, then gluing numerous interior supports to attached the box to the inside of the torso form. Once I had a few pieces glued in place, I removed the pegs and stood the torso form to allow further access to glue other attaching supports inside. I also added some further honeycomb board and supports to attach the arms and made holes from these outer plates and on the interior box structure into which I positioned the arm pegs...
5) ARMS The arms require a bit of engineering to make the arm pegs to attach to the upper torso. I started by making some plates out of the honeycomb board that fit just inside the area where the arms meet the body. I then roughly positioned the arms to the torso and drilled the peg holes in the aforementioned support plates on the arms. Once these were drilled, I removed the arm pegs from the torso, poked the arm pegs through and positioned the arms where I thought they should be in relation to the body and glued away. This part was very tricky as the torso needed to be standing rather high on a box on a table to allow enough room for the arms to clear the floor to text the position. Crucial to get the arms as correctly aligned on the pegs as possible so the Pepakura forms meet up logically.
6) HEAD The head positioning begins by creating a removable plate that goes in through the neck of the figure resting on top of the interior box support which was secured by board with velcro so it could be removed to access the arm connections covered in the next step. I then made a plate on the inside of the head, glues and inserted a tube through the hole made therein and roughly positioned the head to the torso, marking where the tube meets the plate inside the body. Cutting the hole, I then positioned the head and marked the tube to glue on some stopping plates.
7) THE DHOTI I will cover the Dhoti in the final step assembling the figure.
1) LEGS I started with the legs. Inserting carpet tubes in the legs through holes drilled from the bottom of the sandaled feet, these were inserted and pieces of the honeycomb cardboard were formed to fit around the top of the tubes inside the legs. I then put a 1/4" masonite board cut to fit hot glued onto the sole of each sandal for extra support. (see photos).
2) I then cut some larger diameter cardboard tubing that I slid over the leg tubes, these will be attached to the support structure for the waist of the body to create a connective system.
3) WAIST For the waist area, I build an interior structure within, first forming a honeycomb cardboard shape to fit within the cavity that rests on the crotch area, glued and secured with smaller pieces of board glued above and below where the piece meats the body form. I then formed a box-like structure of the honeycomb board to rest on this platform, this was supported and glued with various pieces attached to the body form. Before this step I also guesstimated the location of the leg support holes by laying the legs on table with the waist form. I built this section thinking about the torso section of course! As such, the support box extends from within the top of the waist section in anticipation.
4) TORSO For the torso section I build another box shape out of the honeycomb board. I first measured inside the completed torso shape then worked on the box - I made this to attach to the waist area support area by making it slight wider than the waist support box so it would slide onto this a bit like a giant sleeve. I then cut two 5/8" dowels and sharpened the ends to insert through scored holes to attach the sections together. Once the box was attached, I slid the torso over this form, trimming the box as needed, then gluing numerous interior supports to attached the box to the inside of the torso form. Once I had a few pieces glued in place, I removed the pegs and stood the torso form to allow further access to glue other attaching supports inside. I also added some further honeycomb board and supports to attach the arms and made holes from these outer plates and on the interior box structure into which I positioned the arm pegs...
5) ARMS The arms require a bit of engineering to make the arm pegs to attach to the upper torso. I started by making some plates out of the honeycomb board that fit just inside the area where the arms meet the body. I then roughly positioned the arms to the torso and drilled the peg holes in the aforementioned support plates on the arms. Once these were drilled, I removed the arm pegs from the torso, poked the arm pegs through and positioned the arms where I thought they should be in relation to the body and glued away. This part was very tricky as the torso needed to be standing rather high on a box on a table to allow enough room for the arms to clear the floor to text the position. Crucial to get the arms as correctly aligned on the pegs as possible so the Pepakura forms meet up logically.
6) HEAD The head positioning begins by creating a removable plate that goes in through the neck of the figure resting on top of the interior box support which was secured by board with velcro so it could be removed to access the arm connections covered in the next step. I then made a plate on the inside of the head, glues and inserted a tube through the hole made therein and roughly positioned the head to the torso, marking where the tube meets the plate inside the body. Cutting the hole, I then positioned the head and marked the tube to glue on some stopping plates.
7) THE DHOTI I will cover the Dhoti in the final step assembling the figure.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
 |
Add Comment
|
