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Completely build a CNC router from the ground up without plans, just your hands, some cheap materials and basic tools, and common sense. Did I mention you don't need plans? It's easy, and I guide you through a process of building that the measurements are derived through a logical approach, so all the pieces will fit and the structure will be solid. Moreover, you'll be able to build a CNC with almost any dimension.
And when you finish Part 1, don't forget to head on over to Part 2 where I detail the z-axis and y-axis and I start on the Gantry.
A while back, I built a very shabby machine and I knew there must be a better design. You will be able to take advantage of what I've learned from a great depth of research on the internet and personal building, testing and experimentation.
The instructable will be very long. I will probably take the cake on the length, so I'm separating the instructable into several parts. This is part 1 if you haven't already determined that. It is this long due to the amount of detail I will be providing. Since we are discussing detail, I will also provide almost all of the detail via video. Pictures say a thousand words, but video must be exponential. I really hope you enjoy this series and provide comments to help me improve and be more effective.
Even though there is another instructable on building a CNC router, it details a completely different approach and I feel that this video series will contribute to the understanding of mechanical components and unique building methods.
What is a CNC router you ask? I will define it as a computer controlled router, where the router will move on three axes and the computer controls the motion for these axes.
What you'll need:
95% of the structural components can be found at the local hardware store, like the MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard). Have the hardware store do most of the cutting, you'll mostly need 4" widths by various lengths (you don't know the lengths yet because in this build, you can make almost any size CNC router). Don't get particle board. Aluminum angle 3/4" and 1/8" thick.
A few basic tools like a screwdriver and a miter box saw. Both are pretty inexpensive and 4" width pieces usually fit into a miter box saw, especially if it plastic and the miter box can flex a bit. A circular saw would be helpful, but use the hardware store cutting service to your advantage.
A couple of links that you may find useful for these types of builds are cnczone.com. My official build of this machine is here at my site BuildYourCNC.com with almost all of the video step, but don't cheat and skip to a later step. The series is developed to follow a logical process to get measurements, etc.
And when you finish Part 1, don't forget to head on over to Part 2 where I detail the z-axis and y-axis and I start on the Gantry.
A while back, I built a very shabby machine and I knew there must be a better design. You will be able to take advantage of what I've learned from a great depth of research on the internet and personal building, testing and experimentation.
The instructable will be very long. I will probably take the cake on the length, so I'm separating the instructable into several parts. This is part 1 if you haven't already determined that. It is this long due to the amount of detail I will be providing. Since we are discussing detail, I will also provide almost all of the detail via video. Pictures say a thousand words, but video must be exponential. I really hope you enjoy this series and provide comments to help me improve and be more effective.
Even though there is another instructable on building a CNC router, it details a completely different approach and I feel that this video series will contribute to the understanding of mechanical components and unique building methods.
What is a CNC router you ask? I will define it as a computer controlled router, where the router will move on three axes and the computer controls the motion for these axes.
What you'll need:
95% of the structural components can be found at the local hardware store, like the MDF (Medium Density Fiberboard). Have the hardware store do most of the cutting, you'll mostly need 4" widths by various lengths (you don't know the lengths yet because in this build, you can make almost any size CNC router). Don't get particle board. Aluminum angle 3/4" and 1/8" thick.
A few basic tools like a screwdriver and a miter box saw. Both are pretty inexpensive and 4" width pieces usually fit into a miter box saw, especially if it plastic and the miter box can flex a bit. A circular saw would be helpful, but use the hardware store cutting service to your advantage.
A couple of links that you may find useful for these types of builds are cnczone.com. My official build of this machine is here at my site BuildYourCNC.com with almost all of the video step, but don't cheat and skip to a later step. The series is developed to follow a logical process to get measurements, etc.
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Signing UpStep 1Linear Slide Bearings Video
The CNC router would be useless without a way to move the router on the axis without play. Linear slide bearings are the answer. They enable a very stable and smooth sliding motion without binding. this method of bearings has been used many times, so you can be sure they will work.
The slide bearings are one of the most important component to the CNC router, and it's good to get the concept down in the beginning. You will need about 6 of these in the CNC build at varying sizes (the gantry slide bearings will need to be much longer than the y and z axes.
You will need regular skate bearing (609zz), 5/16" nuts, 5/16" x 3/4" bolts, various drill bits and a 5/16" tap/drill bit set.
The slide bearings are one of the most important component to the CNC router, and it's good to get the concept down in the beginning. You will need about 6 of these in the CNC build at varying sizes (the gantry slide bearings will need to be much longer than the y and z axes.
You will need regular skate bearing (609zz), 5/16" nuts, 5/16" x 3/4" bolts, various drill bits and a 5/16" tap/drill bit set.
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I'm going to build this! However, I'm going to use MDO rather than MDF. Is this a good idea, any problems with it?
wanabop
Use acme thread unless you can afford (beg, borrow, steal, or some happens to fall out of the sky and land at your feet ) ballscrews, or absolutely need the performance only ballscrews can deliver. There is no good reason to use all thread as CNC lead screws. Check out my Instructable if you go with acme leads.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-an-Acme-Tap/
unless you can "borrow" one from work :)
If you want a typical hobbyist CNC setup get Gecko motor drivers
http://www.geckodrive.com/categories.html
and motors to run your machine. Yeah sure there are other choices but in the long run you're likely best off with those. If you're an electronics nut like me you can make your own:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgbeyNNBZ68
You're going to be doing some "electronics" making your own CNC machine anyways so I hope you're not squeamish when it comes to such things.
CAD and CAM can come packaged together but they are usually separate. The two big choices are Mach3 and EMC2 for CAM.
http://www.machsupport.com/
Mach is closed commercial and of limited utility due to its nature. Many prefer this though as it runs in an environment they are familiar with.
http://www.linuxcnc.org/
EMC2 is free, open and virtually unlimited in its scope. Most who try this excogitate why any choose differently. I'm sure they have their reasons, none worthy.
CAD you're on your own as choices vary widely and it really depends on your budget and what you're after. The sky is the limit with both costs and complexities.
I plan on making positive halfs of molds to be vaccum formed later for cars.
Also, when cutting out pieces from a larger piece. How does one prevent the part from moving while its being cut out? As the piece becomes less in contact with the parent piece, it can pop loose, and or chatter against the bit, damaging it. Possibly a solution would be to not cut all the way through?
Any help on this would be great!
Thanks
Screw it to the table somehow: machine screws, at the edges using a block of wood to clamp the piece down.
Use wood screws. This will damage the table, so a sacrificial (spoil board) can be used.
For PCB, super glue and acetone to remove glue afterwards, or my favorite, carpet tape that leaves no residue.
Fence clamp at the edges,
Standard clamps at the corners.
Thanks...
Many thanks and my apologies for the inconvenience and my screaming children, Patrick