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Now, have you, as a kid or an adult ever wanted to build a custom bike? I am sure some people have whether it was a motorized pedal bike to an full on motorcycle. However, as you maybe aware, it can become a costly process. I learned this, and decided I wanted to build a custom bike for as cheap as possible. Since I have never built a bike before, but have a fair amount of mechanical know-how, I decided to start with the engine, and build the bike around it. The reason I decided on this course was because, I thought, starting with the frame, whether I fabricate one, or buy one, I will either be looking all over for an engine that fits, or modifying the frames. If I start with the engine I can fabricate a frame to it, or I would still have to modify a bought frame for it. So it boils down to fabricate a frame or buy a frame and fabrication would lend itself better to starting with the engine.
EVERYTHING IS ON HOLD AT THE MOMENT, SOMETHING UNEXPECTED HAS COME UP. CAN'T HANDLE ANY LARGE PROJECTS RIGHT NOW.
Now this is a short version mostly of lesser important matters. Anything very important or in need of more care will be covered in part 1b. If you have know how in this area, feel free to skip right to Part 2 (COMING SOON!).
So, now you are wondering, OK, great, now what about the engine.
Now, I know someone is going to tell me this, but yes, I used a very weird engine. I think it will work out great though with the specifications below:
400cc Wisconsin Engine
-Cast Iron build
-lots of torque (30 ft/lbs)
-1900rpm idle, 3700rpm max. (No load)
-the carb is made to be able to tip to extreme angles without flooding or starving
-it has an oil pump (Much better then splash lubrication)
So it has some good credentials, however, it is 60 years old, but has no wear on it which is excellent and a bit surprising even. Now, you may think, where can I pick up one of these from! Well, you can try the bargain finder in your area, and even junkyards tend to have then, and usually they only have minor problems. So there is the option of the odd engine like I used, or similar (A twin cylinder 20hp Honda, those are fairly common), or the second option.
Now the second option is opting for a standard bike engine, something that is made for a bike. These, although I can guarantee will probably be more expensive, they will require less fabrication for installment. Using a non-bike engine means it will not have the same mounting abilities of a bike engine.
So there is trade offs.
Once you have picked an engine, if its used, it is a good idea to clean it up, even if it runs. You might find you didn't get a great deal, you might find you got a great deal.
*Sorry some of the pictures are sideways, I am trying to figure out how to fix that.*
EVERYTHING IS ON HOLD AT THE MOMENT, SOMETHING UNEXPECTED HAS COME UP. CAN'T HANDLE ANY LARGE PROJECTS RIGHT NOW.
Now this is a short version mostly of lesser important matters. Anything very important or in need of more care will be covered in part 1b. If you have know how in this area, feel free to skip right to Part 2 (COMING SOON!).
So, now you are wondering, OK, great, now what about the engine.
Now, I know someone is going to tell me this, but yes, I used a very weird engine. I think it will work out great though with the specifications below:
400cc Wisconsin Engine
-Cast Iron build
-lots of torque (30 ft/lbs)
-1900rpm idle, 3700rpm max. (No load)
-the carb is made to be able to tip to extreme angles without flooding or starving
-it has an oil pump (Much better then splash lubrication)
So it has some good credentials, however, it is 60 years old, but has no wear on it which is excellent and a bit surprising even. Now, you may think, where can I pick up one of these from! Well, you can try the bargain finder in your area, and even junkyards tend to have then, and usually they only have minor problems. So there is the option of the odd engine like I used, or similar (A twin cylinder 20hp Honda, those are fairly common), or the second option.
Now the second option is opting for a standard bike engine, something that is made for a bike. These, although I can guarantee will probably be more expensive, they will require less fabrication for installment. Using a non-bike engine means it will not have the same mounting abilities of a bike engine.
So there is trade offs.
Once you have picked an engine, if its used, it is a good idea to clean it up, even if it runs. You might find you didn't get a great deal, you might find you got a great deal.
*Sorry some of the pictures are sideways, I am trying to figure out how to fix that.*
THAT REMINDS ME! I was wanting to make an Instructable on Vertical to Horizontal conversions for engines! So if it is Vertical Shaft, I will post an 'Ible later on how to get it to run horizontally. I planned on doing that awhile back because there are always people asking, "How can I get a lawnmower engine to run horizontally?" and I have never seen an answer, but I tried it and its very simple. Really, its just adjusting the carb position and putting a piece of Acrylic over the crank case to see what needs to be added to sling oil...Which usually is just a stiff piece of metal in a check mark type shape.
Also, I hate pull starts, or at least fixing them. If they have to be taken apart, the spring inside is such a pain to rewind and reassemble. I might make an 'Ible on that too! :D
Thanks for the comment! :D
In your photo editing software there is a menu option for View. Usually there is a Rotate command in a sub-menu, or Rotate may appear as its own separate menu header. Click on it once and the photo turns 90 degrees. Some programs allow you to rotate both clockwise and counter-clockwise. If yours allows only clockwise rotation, you may need to click three times for 270 degrees of adjustment to get what you want.
And It's every bit as useful as a "small engine repair" tutorial (maybe more so) as it is about your bike...
I like your project!