Step 5Solder Everything Together
The first thing I did was punch one small hole in each can. This gave me something to thread the wire through and helped give a better soldered connection. I then soldered one wire to each of the cans.
Next, I soldered the wire from one can too the outside coaxial wire, and the wire from the other can to the inside coaxial wire.
Once everything was soldered I used electrical tape and hot glue to insulate everything.
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Now, to address your question:
Although solder won't actually "wet" to aluminum, your "cross-hatching" trick, with gouges in going in many different directions, will have created enough opposing "hills and valleys" for the molten solder to "grip" the roughened spots - sort of - similar to the way "scarifying" or "etching" glossy surfaces will improve the adhesion of a new coat of paint.
Plus, if the solder flowed through on the (presumably copper?) wire to both sides of the hole, it would form a fairly snug "plug", holding pretty well mechanically. Signal-strength problems may arise later, though, when corrosion works in between the solder and the aluminum.
If the material will stand the gaff, pop-rivets might be a longer-term solution. (Then again, the rivets might simply rip through the thin can walls before "popping" properly.)
http://www.instructables.com/id/Soldering-to-large-metal-objects/