If you are interested in building a window seat, you can read about it here >> https://www.instructables.com/id/Build-a-Window-Seat-with-Storage/
Step 1: Making the Table Legs
My table saw cannot cut a leg this thick without making 2 passes so I tapered them on my bandsaw. The bandsaw leaves a rougher finish and that looked even better on this rustic table. I made a quick and dirty jig to cut the legs which you can see in pic 3. The jig has a runner which slides in the miter track of the bandsaw table. Two hold downs were sufficient to secure the leg to the jig. I anchored an L-shaped block & a long block for positioning the leg on the jig. Once you've cut away 2 sides, the long block is no longer accurate and it becomes necessary to line up your mark on the bottom of the leg with the edge of the jig before clamping.
Because these legs were salvaged they had old screw holes in them which were filled prior to painting. In retrospect, it probably would have looked cool to just leave them. I lightly sanded the legs with 100 & 150 grit sandpaper which smoothed them without removing all the saw marks. One coat of chalk paint and 2 coats of clear Briwax was used to finish the legs. Briwax yellows the finish a bit which aged the paint nicely. Between coats of Briwax I sanded through the paint on some of the edges with 100 grit paper to show wear.
Step 2: Making the Table Aprons
I decided I would attach the table top using metal clips (pic 3) and cut a kerf for the clips in the back of the aprons. Clips let the tabletop expand and contract which prevents splitting and warping. The kerf cut is roughly 1/4" deep.
Step 3: Assemble the Table Base
Step 4: Make Your Table Top
WARNING: Take appropriate precautions when cutting and sanding old wood with paint on it. Old paint may contain lead. Make sure you do not inhale dust while you are working with painted wood and wash your hands frequently. If you have children who might chew on the wood, it would be best not to use it.
Per usual, I used pocket screws to fasten the table top together after applying glue to the edges. Pic 3 shows the underside of the table. A straight edge clamp and a circular saw were used to trim the ends of the top. The blue masking tape helps limit splintering from the saw. To see if the table was square, I compared the diagonal measurements across the table top. Diagonal measurements on a square or rectangle should be equal if the piece is square on all corners. It's not very critical on a rustic, distressed table since the table's charm comes from it's imperfections.
There was one crack which required stabilization to prevent further splitting. On an old piece of wood there is nothing more beautiful than a contrasting butterfly inlay to lock the pieces together. Alternatively you could glue and clamp the split, however it is hard to get enough glue into the crack and an inlay looks much better. I used a piece of bloodwood and an inlay jig on my router for the butterfly. This was the first time I've tried inlay and it was very easy. While the butterfly is beautiful & interesting, it acts functionally as 2 opposing wedges to prevent the crack from widening. The last pic shows the finished product.
Step 5: Finishing the Table.
I hope this instructable has given you some ideas for making your own farmhouse table! I look forward to your comments and suggestions for improving. Thanks!