Instructables
Picture of Build a Flexible DSLR LED Video Light
LED lighting panels for your DSLR are great, but they can be expensive. So why not build your own? I decided to, with a twist - literally, as my panel is flexible and can conform to various shapes for mounting or to broadcast light in various directions. 
The basic materials and tools I used are:

Materials:

Neoprene - I used an old backpack made of the stuff, so free!
Hardware Cloth - not really cloth - basically a fancy name for chicken wire, available at home center
Flexible LED strips - available on eBay and such, which is where I got mine - about $15 for 300 LED strip (Mostly used on Tron Suit)
Velcro or substitute 
Flexible Wire - I used an old ribbon cable salvaged from a computer
Needle and Thread - I used heavy duty thread, but standard should be fine too
Type M port and plug (x2) - For power in and output to light panel, any type of quick connect will work
10K Potentiometer with SPST switch - For dimming/power on control

Tools:

Scissors
Tin Snips
Dremel
Drill + bits
Soldering Iron
Epic music to work to.


 
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Step 1: Part 1 - Light Panel Construction

Picture of Part 1 - Light Panel Construction
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To build the flexible panel base:

I decided on a 6" x 6" square light panel (somewhat arbitrarily), so I needed about a 12" x 6" section of neoprene to make a sleeve out of.
So I took some scissors to an old neoprene backpack (the neoprene was about 1/8" thick) and cut out the needed piece. I folded it over with the side I wanted inside facing out (this one had a blue inner), and pinned it at one corner to hold it in place. Then I sewed a seamed up one side, tied it off, and sewed up the opposing side. Once the two sides were sewed up, I flipped the whole thing rightside out.

Now time for the inner frame:
Take your snips and cut a 8" x 8" square of wire - getting that from adding 1" to each side of the final dimension. Then cut a 1" x 1" square out of each corner, so the sides can be folded in. With that done, fold each edge in half, then in half again, then finally in to the final 6" x 6" dimension. This folding in gives a thick edge that will help the panel hold its shape when formed.

Finishing off:

With the frame formed, next insert it into the neoprene sleeve (which will take some wiggling, as the frame may snag the neoprene). Once the frame is fully inserted, sew up the open end of the sleeve.

Lastly sew back and forth though the entire panel, so that when flexed the stretched neoprene will stick to the frame and not simple stretch straight across the gap.
owhy1 year ago
Nooo, I love my built bag now that I downsized to a normal laptop. Should have found this a couple weeks ago and I'd have a fun flexible ..

No, I'd just find a different material. I can't think of a time where I'd want this bendable and non.. I'd want ball bearing hinges or something for flexibility. (now I'll actually read)
i love the design! plan on getting a t3 soon and this will help lots! 1 concern, why didn't you use diodes on your positive wires from the battery and from the external power?
jonathan.elwell (author)  gman2000watts1 year ago
I did! LED = Light Emitting Diode, so current can only flow on way (well, if you really over voltaged you could break them down). Even if I were to put in battery the wrong way it just wouldn't work, but it wouldn't harm anything though. Now, if I added a PWM circuit then absolutely I would put in a protective diode.
I was more concerned with the batteries getting over charged from the external power.