Step 9: Mark positions of the remaining deck beams

We have already marked the positions of three of our deck beams. Now we need to mark the positions of the remaining deck beams. Do all the marking on the top edge of the gunwales.

Make a mark 24 inches from the bow and another 24 inches from the stern. Make another mark 1-1/2 inches toward the center of the gunwales. This will be the position of deck beams 1 and 11. Label them on each gunwale.

Space deck beams 2 and 3 evenly between deck beams 1 and the footbrace which is deck beam 4.

Space deck beam 5 halfway between deck beams 4, the foot brace and deck beam 6, the knee brace.

Space deck beams 8, 9 and 10 evenly between deck beam 7, the back brace and deck beam 11.
<p>I am building this boat using 14' gunwales. Should I make the center to back proportional? Instead of 17&quot; back of center make it 147/8&quot;? Would you do the same with the risers? How about the beam for my size I would need a 22&quot; for the 16' boat would I make the 14' boat 23'? Thanks</p>
I just want to say thank you for posting all this hard work. I have started your project and have been enjoying every step. Your explanation is very thorough and I am looking forward to the final outcome
You're welcome. One suggestion, If you're not planning on using your kayak primarily for rolling, putting in a longer than traditional cockpit makes getting in and out of the boat easier.
I scrounged up some old growth redwood decking (tight, straight grain). Am I crazy to try using this for the gunwales?
the redwood should work. I've used it here and there on kayaks. Just go a little deeper on the gunwales, like maybe 3 inches instead of 2. The place where breakage tends to happen is in hull stringers and the keelson. I would avoid the redwood there.
How deep do you drill the holes for the rib mortises?
rib mortise holes are 1/2 inch deep.
The precision in this step has me a bit worried. Does this mean two different people can use the same kayak effectively?
two people might be able to use the same boat if they are close enough in size. Greenland boats tend to be tight and fit to the individual. However, you can install more than one foot brace or install adjustable foot braces available from various sources. If you install adjustable foot braces you would leave out the deck beam that would normally be used as a foot brace or move that deck beam farther forward or back.
I had a question about the centerline when marking the gunwales. Are you just marking the center of the 16 ft boards or are you taking in consideration the risers? Later, you add a piece on the bow and stern. Is this taken into consideration too when measuring the centerline? Thanks, Jeff
Yes, the center line is marked on the boards as is without taking later additions into consideration.
I have a quick question about overall kayak length. Since I am a smaller paddler (115 lbs), wouldn't a 17' kayak be much too long for me? Would you recommend that I shoot for 14' or so? It would definitely make searching for gunwale wood much easier. :) Thank you so much! I've wanted to build one of these for quite some time now, and your instructable is amazingly helpful!
I have made Aleut kayaks in 14 foot and even 12 foot lengths. Haven't tried it with the Greenland kayak yet. But a friend of mine has. He built a 14 foot Greenlander, I think he made it about 24 inches wide. It changes the geometry a little but it's worth experimenting.
I have a quetion regarding dowelling the risers...do you use glue on the risers and in the dowel holes?
I don't use glue, but you could. The dowels are bigger than the holes by 1/64th of an inch so they fit pretty tight. Traditionally, bow assemblies were just doweled and lashed because glue was not available.
Hi there! I am locating my tools and materials to build a greenland kayak. Question: I would prefer to make the 10-foot long version of the kayak, so I can easily store it in my apartment and manage to carry it down to river, as well. How does this change the lengths/dimensions of the wood I need? Also, what is the lightest wood (as in least dense) of pine, spruce, and the others you recommended? Thanks!
If you want to build a short boat, check out this option:<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.wolfgangbrinck.com/boats/tales/playboat.html">http://www.wolfgangbrinck.com/boats/tales/playboat.html</a><br/><br/>For a Greenland kayak, I would go with at least 12 feet since you have about 2 feet of overhang. A 10 foot boat would have an 8 foot waterline. You would want to go with a 24 inch beam. Other things to consider would be your weight. <br/><br/>Lightest weight wood for the gunwales would be western redcedar, after that spruce. Ribs can be anything that you can bend. Deckbeams can be redcedar or redwood. <br/>
Can u buy the wood at a lowes hardware store ???
Yes, I've used wood from discount lumber places. If you make the gunwales 3/4 x 3-1/2 inches, then you can use wood with some knots as long as they're small, tight knots, not exceeding 1/2 inch. You can get the wood from anywhere as long as you can get wood in the 16 foot length. If you can't get wood in 16 foot lengths, you can scarf two shorter pieces together. Most books on wooden boat building have information on how to scarf boards together. See your local library.
Do you have any wood type recommendations? Other than simply being knot free?
For the 16 foot long stuff stick to softwoods like spruce, pine, fir. What is available will depend on your location. Deck beams are short so you can get usable lengths of wood out of construction lumber by cutting between the knots.
very nice detailed instructions. i like the methodology you use here for ensuring symmetry, it really simplifies accuracy of the work being done. cheers :-) WL
cool part 2, i cant wait till its done.

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Bio: skin on frame kayak builder since 1987
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