Step 1: Shopping List

Here is what you'll need to build your own remote control deadbolt:

I used two 110V solenoids out of an icemaker, but you may want to build your lock using DC solenoids. Some of them are very strong, and your options for powering the lock in the event of a power outage are greater. Just something to think about. IMPORTANT! -- Make sure you get a continuous duty solenoid, some solenoids are only meant to be energized momentarily, which will cause a problem if you leave them energized and walk away. Read up on the various types of solenoids here.

X10 Controller
I got my X10 controller (Keychain Remote type) on eBay for about $15.00 shipped. This is a simple kit that includes the receiver/appliance module and one remote. Search for "X10 Keychain Kit" or "RC6500" on eBay to find the one I bought.

In addition to the above, you'll need 2 return springs per solenoid used, 1/2" steel dowel rod (about $6.00 for 3'), an extension cable long enough to reach your outlet with enough to spare for some additional wiring, and possibly some bits of steel for reinforcement. Depending on what kind of connections your solenoids have, you'll probably want to get some crimp-on connectors. Solder and shrink tubing work better, but are harder to get apart if you should need to.

Optionally, you can buy a couple of magnets to mount inside the recessed mounting hole. This will help the bolt to stay extended, and make a great noise as the bolt closes.

Another improvement on my design would be to use a small hobby box as an enclosure for each solenoid. This would look a lot cleaner and keep the electrical contacts under wraps.
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Zamaan1 month ago

how can I connect solenoid and other remote control circuit?

termark9 months ago
Could you please send me your email? I have a lot of questions :)
Dric.s1 year ago
Hi, can I email you or something? I am interested in your ideals, I need help in my major project regarding the locking system. I really hoped you could teach me a few pointers.
EET19822 years ago
Dumb question. If you have a push pull selinoid, what are the purpose of the springs. It looks like they would have an opposite effect on it. Thanks in advance for anyone who answers my question!
Ricochet842 years ago
Peter Parker! Hell yeah!
jmmgmm3 years ago
It might be possible to use a simple garage door remote. For example, I used the extra button on my garage door remote to power on my interior lights to my house. I was thinking that it just might be possible to activate a solenoid as well. This picture below is the model that I was referring to. I found one with the cover removed that might provide a better idea to what I'm talking about. Notice how the female connectors provide a good attachment to a solenoid. It would be much more secure than X10 and I only needed to order the control since I already had a remote that worked with it. You can buy it at Garage Door Remotes . It can be turned on or off with a key chain remote, regular car remote, or even a biometric fingerprint keypad if you felt like it.
txoutback3 years ago
In my scenario, I have a large gate for my driveway. Currently it has a manual latch that must be used each time I drive in or out. It's mainly there to keep my dog in the yard, and other dogs out of my yard.

There is AC 110 power out there, and I happen to have an old icemaker that is unused. What I'd like to do is make a gate latch "popper" so I can remotely pop the gate latch, and allow a spring and gravity to pull the gate open.

This would save me one stop/trip each time I go through the gate in a vehicle, and the hundreds of dollars I would spend on a Mighty-Mule that would probably only last a few years at the most.

Where to start? Should I take apart the ice maker to find the solenoid?
hilldweller3 years ago
Could you please provide information on the solenoid please, such as the manufacturer, model number, and where they are available?
I've tried googling it but most all are valves and pool supply stuff.
Thanks in advance.
eemanuel4 years ago
x10 is awesome, but I live in Europe, so I have 220-230V on my socket, which means I can't use it :(
Couldn't you use a travel adapter of some sort? I'm sure that could work.
no, would need a transformer.
you could always look at car lock solenoids, and just use a 12 volt system?
CodeKid10014 years ago
Quick Question: If I wanted to use this on my bedroom door to keep out pesky siblings, could I use servo motors instead to "push" or "pull" the dowel?
I would like to know this as well for the same application. I'm trying to make a lock for my lab and i am going to put a keypad on the other side. My only dilemma is, how do you reinforce the servo so it can move the bolt but doesn't have to be linked to it (making it a weak point).

My thought right now is something along the lines of this:
(\/) (Servo with gear w/ teeth)
[^^^^^^^^^] (Bolt)
and then the servo just spins the bolt... However, I doubt this is the best way.. Any other thoughts?
eemanuel4 years ago
just take it out, they are in parallel so if you take out one solenoid just ignore the wires that were going to it.
here's how the "diagram" will look with only one
that doesnt work parallel means that it will draw more amps but not volts i prettey sure u would hook the solenoids on series to draw 220V but only a few amp hope that helps ;)
Crucio4 years ago
This is a very nice project and very nicely done.

However, be aware that using X10 (especially wireless) for security this way is a bad idea.  X10 signals are simple, well-known, and published.  Someone would need to know only that you are using X10 to be able to quickly gain entry.  A brute force search of all 16 housecodes and the TM751's fixed unit code (1) can be completed in seconds.

stuffman (author)  Crucio4 years ago
Absolutely, I agree that this is an easy system to defeat if you know what's behind the door running the whole thing.  Think of it as security through obscurity.  Who would think that X10 is being used to secure a structure?  We've since moved and this setup hasn't been replicated at our new house, but when it was in place it was never the only thing keeping people out.  This was used to supplement a hasp/padlock setup that was already in place.
Ianmck124 years ago
im not buliding it but im doing a report on it but thanks for your help
Ianmck124 years ago
 im not much of a techy but i hope i do what i can do

stuffman (author)  Ianmck124 years ago
Okay, here's a very basic diagram of a single solenoid to X10 module setup.  If you need further explanation I recommend picking up a book at your local hardware store on 110V circuits.  I bought one at Lowe's published by Black & Decker that does a really good job explaining how everything works with high voltage current, switching , resistive vs inductive loads etc.  Without this knowledge I would strongly advise against starting this project.  Maybe I'm being overly cautious, but I'd hate to be the reason that you fried yourself. 
Ianmck124 years ago
 how should it look if i only use one solenoid.
reaver264 years ago
hello.. your guide is very helpful but the only problem is the "solenoid" its really hard to acquire one here in the philippines. but anyway thanks
Sn0wl3all4 years ago

I'm thinking of doing something like this for my school's Engineering Fair (if you don't mind, I can still cancel the topic)

Can anyone tell me exactly what type of solenoid is used here? Because I can't seem to find anything like it anywhere, including home depot and ebay.

stuffman (author)  Sn0wl3all4 years ago
You wont find what you need at Home Depot or Radio Shack, these components are used in industrial equipment and can really only be found through a specialty outlet.  I found what may be the exact solenoid I used through Grainger <link>.  I got mine used, but there should be something there that you can use.  Also, you may want to think about adapting this to DC instead of AC.  For practical purposes it's much better (much easier to supply power to the system in the event of a power outage, for example), and it's much safer to work with. 

If you decide to use high voltage in your project, be careful and make sure you understand what you're doing.  In the time since I made this instructable I've done a lot of stuff with 110/220V AC, mostly rewiring the house we bought.  I now know that it was through sheer luck that I didn't wire this wrong and cause some damage.  Just make sure you understand what you're working with before you even start the project.  If I could make a suggestion, find a cheapo car alarm with a keychain remote and use that to trigger as many DC solenoids as you need to.  You can also integrate a solar charging circuit and really impress some people.  If you do that, make sure you post it on this site so we can all see, and so I can copy your design. :0P Good luck, and let me know if I can help out.

stuffman (author)  stuffman4 years ago
For some reason my links aren't working.  go to and search for solenoids.  That should get you on the right track.
Ianmck124 years ago
 and are you sure its 110v becuz the sticker says 120 v
stuffman (author)  Ianmck124 years ago
110V is a loose rating, the actual voltage can fluctuate between 110 and 120 volts AC.  It's confusing, but 110V circuits and 120V circuits are actually the same thing, as long as you're talking about United States (or maybe North American) AC voltage standards.  You may want to think about adapting this instructable to DC if you're asking for a project that you will actually build.  Good Luck,

Ianmck124 years ago
 sizes and mabey the dimentions of the door the wood and springs
stuffman (author)  Ianmck124 years ago
I'm not exactly sure of the dimensions of everything, but if you compare the items to the wood they're mounted to you should be able to infer some scale.  For example, the block that the solenoid and springs are mounted to is a 2x4, which is 1.5"X3.5".  Hopefully this helps, I'm not sure of the exact dimensions.  Anyway, this instructable should be used as a loose guide to your project, no two could really be the same.  Good Luck!
Ianmck124 years ago
 can you be a little more specific im doing a report on this
stuffman (author)  Ianmck124 years ago
I'm not sure what needs clarification.  Please let me know what part you're having problems with and I'll be happy to explain it for you.

The key switch is just that, radio shack should have them same goes for the magnetic reed switch, connect the + & - lines to some metallic things that are accessible from both sides of the building and electrically insulated from each other, personally I like the upper hinge has positive and the lower as negative, nice and easy to remember. The idea is that in the event of power or x10 failure you put a magnet over some small mark on the door indicating the location of your reed switch on the other side, turn your keyed switch and then jump start the hinges of your door with some handy 12v power source, car, lawnmower, jump box, spare robot battery, or worst case a 12V wallwart on a extension cord(if you have power). The last thing is that if your not terribly worried about security you could omit the keyed switch and reed switch and just operate on the assumption that applying 12V across the hinges of a door is not a standard method of unlocking doors, or add more normally open switches("broken" light switch, lose 12V light bulb that you need to screw in, light sensor under a brick, 2 metal tool hooks you need to short together, you get the idea) in series to increase security. and in hindsight it would probably be a good idea to throw some sort of current limiting resistor in series with the relay as well just as a safety factor.
stuffman (author)  cokebottle tuque5 years ago
Excellent, thanks! We'll be moving soon if we get the house we're hoping to get, then I'll be updating this to include the garage sale car alarm (keyless entry) and a 12V battery charged by either a solar cell or a wall-wart battery minder. I'll have to switch to DC solenoids or worm drive system, but I'll probably integrate some sort of failsafe once we're dealing with low voltage DC instead of AC. Thanks for the ideas, and for all the time invested in the diagram! I love instructables, Shawn
Oh no problem diagrams like that take less time to make in muftisim than multisim takes to start up so really minimal effort, and I have been toying with a similar idea for an apartment/dorm lock and all the fail safes I would need to build in just in case. If you hit a road block let me know I may have some different prospective on it.
I'm planning to try and build one of these into a standard deadbolt, so that I can still use the key if necessary. Any idea what the security is like on those wireless keyfobs? I'd like to combine that, and a wireless video intercom/door chime, so that when I'm not home and my wife's in bed, she can admit friends or our home-maker from bed. ~adamvan2000
jammmie9995 years ago
Wouldest it be easier to use elector magnet both sides press switch electromagnet activated locked or vice versa
stusatwork5 years ago
I keep coming back to this one looking for a reason to do it and I came up with what I think is a great backup.... Setup up 2 keyed backups on the door with pivot bars attached to the lock that will manually slide the pins out when you turn the lock. I would use round locks just to be obscure. Now juice the locks with current from any # of sources. That way if someone goes around randomly probing in the lock while there is power then they get a nice jolt. Just insulate your set of keys and if the power is out it won't matter anyway. If you get a marine type lock they are usually pretty well insulated already so that casual brushes against it shouldn't be an issue. If all else fails dip the face of it in liquid rubber. May even be possible to stick the electrodes in the lock in such a way that only something that isn't the key would set it off... take out a pin on the lock??use that area?
stuffman (author) 6 years ago
probably not. For one thing, it moves the wrong direction, though you can get solenoids which act as rams when voltage is applied. The one I've chosen however retracts and therefore would be unsuitable. Good luck, Shawn
Coffee bean6 years ago
do u think this moves enough to shoot a bb
All this worrying about backup power, have an inverter et. all inside the building with a pair of hidden jump leads to use the car battery, or if you use the inverter for stuff in the car just have an extension cord style attachment to inside, problemo solved, no worries of the battery just discharging over time either. Also for a backup switch system a good plan might be two contacts at the bottom of a hole in a brick of the wall, shole a potential burglar attempt to switch after observation their finger gets zapped, assuming they find the hole as a possible switch point. Also why not take a standard garage door and use solenoids to control that and leave the outer handle as a dummy mechanism?
Mr. Rig It6 years ago
Would love to see you add this to my new group.
Hope to see you there.
Home Repair, Refurbishment, and New Projects
stuffman (author)  Mr. Rig It6 years ago
Added! Thanks for your interest, your group has some cool stuff.
Thank You! I hope to see more stuff from you stuffman. I love the Remote Control Deadbolt, really cool.
CitizenX6 years ago
I use the extra button on my garage door remote to power on my house lights. You could use it to activate a solenoid as well. This is a picture of the model that I am talking about with the cover taken off. The connectors to the female outlet slide off giving you a good spot to attach a solenoid (or whatever). It would be much more secure than X10 and I only needed to order the control since I already had a remote that worked with it. You can buy it at TD Supplies. It can be turned on or off with a keychain remote, regular car remote, or even a biometric fingerprint keypad if you felt like it.
stuffman (author)  CitizenX6 years ago
I'm surprised I didn't see this sooner, this is a great alternative to the X10 hardware I'm using. I can't seem to find a small keychain remote for liftmaster openers, but this sort of answers all of the folks who nag me about security with the X10. Thanks for the suggestion!
Greenehouse6 years ago
Neat idea, I've been trying to come up with something like that for a hidden door (covered up by a movable bookcase.) Check out "Kenbob" in the Home section and the Group "House of Hidden Passages." I have alot of x10 stuff already from so this might work. I think I might secure the remote behind something that I could just reach around and press. Hummmm, thanks for the ideas!
Goodhart6 years ago
I guess the only comment I have is that, many homes have the line coming in from the street split into 2 seperate phases, and with that, the X-10 does not always work "across" from one phase to another, so make sure you are on the same side of the circuit breaker box with actuator and x-10 control box or it may get frustrating trying to figure out what is wrong.
Fatvod6 years ago
Whoa this is cool. But for a secondary switch (Might be hard) you could make a fake light or handle on the side that turns and activates it. Or you could create (EVEN HARDER) a sliding piece of panel on the outside. Ok im getting out of hand lol. I guess just something discreet.
stuffman (author)  Fatvod6 years ago
Oooh, you know what would be awesome? A switch activated by a wall sconce, or by tilting a book on a bookshelf, like in the scary movies :0) You're absolutely right, I have to figure out a backup plan, what I've thought of doing is drilling a very small hole through the wood for each bolt, then if I get locked out I can use two paper clips to push the spring loaded rods back and open the door. I don't like the idea of anyone with two paper clips being able to get into the garage, but I think that it would be effective. This whole design relies on a potential thief not having much of an imagination, or putting enough between them and my stuff for him to choose another target. That said, I guess it would still be nice to get to my stuff in the event of a power failure. Now that I think about it, my garage is probably not a good place for my flashlights, either.
Fatvod stuffman6 years ago
Yea but a bookshelf outside? But yea I mean that same principle of a hidden switch activating it. I mean what damn thief would EVER think of that?!?!? And you could be coming home with your friends and go "damnit locked out. Watch this" KACHUNK and then they will flip! But umm yea something like that.
Bor stuffman6 years ago
What if you use this to make a secret compartiment? You just lift a book to open.
ve2vfd7 years ago
Nice! I hope you do have some sort of backup or manual override in case of power outage or malfunction?
vaxjo ve2vfd7 years ago
It's called a crowbar. Or you could run a regular wall switch in parallel with the X10 module and mount it somewhere discreet on the exterior of the garage.
you could make a box that could be locked
Ah, yes! The box that protects the auxiliary switch could itself be secured with an X-10 powered solenoid deadbolt. And then the recursion would cause your head to explode.
MrStupid vaxjo6 years ago
No No, the box that protects the auxiliary switch (or emergency lock bypass) would be secured in a more conventional manor(IE lock and key)
zachninme vaxjo7 years ago
What about a hidden *female* 3-pronged power outlet, hidden on the outside.
To get in, use an adaptor & an UPS.
stuffman (author)  zachninme7 years ago
The problem with that, if I understand your suggestion, is twofold. The first problem is having a male cable end providing power rather than accepting it. Those exposed bits could give you a pretty good shock. Second, and I might be way off here, but in order to do that you'd have the x10 controller receiving power from the end that plugs into the wall AND from the switched end while the power from the UPS was connected. That could do irreparable damage to the x10 controller, or worse. I'm sure there's a workable solution though, and I appreciate the suggestions. My girlfriend is going to be mighty upset if we get permanently locked out of the garage because that x10 controller fails :0)
The UPS would be something somewhere else, and only used in power outages. And if the power is out, and you plug the adaptor into the wall first, then there's no risk. Order is everything. I'd also install a switch, mounted by this power box, to disconnect. That would also solve the first problem.
stuffman (author)  zachninme7 years ago
Very nice, I take it back. I now have a reason to buy a replacement battery for the dead UPS that's been sitting in my office for 2 years! Thanks.
What if you would use a 12 volt pull type solenoid that opens the door when energized and then connect a backup battery to the solenoid and then wire it thought a key switch which you can put somewhere outside (in some hidden place?), and then if there's a power failure, you just use the key and the backup battery energizes the solenoid and opens the door
i was going for pad lock but that sounds fun =]
stuffman (author)  vaxjo7 years ago
stuffman (author)  vaxjo7 years ago
I'm working on the UPS angle right now. Otherwise I think I might drill a very small hole through the door jam that follows the same path as the steel dowel. Then I can open the right-hand door and insert 2 coathangers into those holes, pushing the bolts back to their retracted position. I think it's strange enough that no one would think to try it if they were breaking in. The switch is a really good idea though.
You could bury the wires for the switch, and partially bury the switch..then hide it under a plant or something. That'd be funny.
Here is a link to the website to buy the controller.
stuffman (author) 6 years ago
I guess I'll post an update since this seems to be a fairly popular instructable.

My garage was broken into a couple of months ago. Well, I should say that my neighbor's side of the garage was broken into a couple of months ago. Someone popped the lock with some bolt cutters and rummaged around in her side, but my 1/2 of the garage was undisturbed. So, that was pretty cool...

I can now open this lock from my Blackberry, using the X10 firecracker, an open-source X10 app called Bottlerocket, and a SSH client for the Blackberry called MidpSSH. If anyone wants more information on how to do this, I'll post it.

That is all.
jwater77 years ago
how much electricity is used while the door is unlocked?
stuffman (author)  jwater77 years ago
I'm not sure, but 2 relays aren't enough to overload the X10 controller. I think it's somewhere between an alarm clock and a dishwasher :0) Actually, I turn power off when the door is open and I'm going to be working in the garage for a while. I'll leave it on if I'm only grabbing something from inside the garage.
stuffman (author)  hothmob7 years ago
Nope, not yet. Flying by the seat of my pants for the time being, but that will come in phase two.
What if you would add a very large capacitor to the circuit so if there's a power failure it can use the capacitor as an emergency power supply?
btop hothmob7 years ago
If you had a capacitor attached to a 3 pole switch, with the power supply one one side, the solenoids in the middle and the cap on the other side, then if the was a power faliure, switch the switch from power in, to the cap and then you open the door and swich it back when the power is back on.
I have thought of doing this for my apartment, for a power backup I considered a Motorcycle battery. Althought, electronic locks can be purchased at Home Depot. But this is much more fun.
Unfortunately a capacitor would only work for a DC supply. AC power cannot be stored in a capacitor. Personally I think a DC supply with battery/solar power back-up would be ideal for this setup. You would need a very large cap to provide the nessecary power.
what solenoids did you use?
spasmic7 years ago
thanks for this stuffman...btw, has anyone tried doing the same concept using cellphone as the remote?
srteach7 years ago
I would think that salvaged car door remote solenoids would work nicely. 12 volts would allow battery / solar power for remote locations and lower fire risk, key fob would add quite a bit of security, and the system comes as a whole, very little modification needed. Good job, though.
btop srteach7 years ago
you could use a picaxe I-Button kit to open the door if you used 12 volt solenoids. That would add extra security as no two I-Buttons are the same. There is still the problem of power failure though.
tool_SLinga7 years ago
Why not just run a couple inconspicuous nails thru the door and connect them to a low volt solenoid. Nothin but a key across the two points to activate your lock that way. Keep it simple.
jcastle7 years ago
I guess this idea would also rely on obscurity but I think it might be a little more obscure than an X10. Mount a reed switch at a random point behind the door that only you know about, use it in some sort of relay circuit to activate your AC solenoids. Then you could just have a keyfob that is magnetized to activate the reed switch. I guess you'd want to be careful with your keyfob and your wallet (credit cards)
bumsugger7 years ago
Hi there,I suppose I'm whats' known as an "Eletro-Geek" so I'll be pedantic (since you asked) and declare that in the interests of clarity,not to mention discipline,the wire carrying the voltage to your solenoids ie: your LIVE, should be either RED or BROWN,and your "return," or neutral (negative) should be BLACK or BLUE,apart from that a very nice Instructable.
Coati bumsugger7 years ago
There really is no negative in AC electricity,and in the United States according to our National Electric Code the neutral or grounded conductor should be white for a 120 volt circuit or grey for 277 volts.Sorry one of the few things I know anything about and I could not keep my mouth shut.
Coati Coati7 years ago
Sorry the air must have been thin up there on my soap box and I forgot to say how much I liked your instructable.I have always wanted to do something similar with a hide-out in a bookshelf or pantry with a small hidden switch.However I am much to busy correcting people in comments all over the internet to complete a project of my own.
very funny. :)
stuffman (author)  Coati7 years ago
Thanks Coati, and don't worry, I appreciate the clarification. My next project will be the candelabra that you pull down to reveal...... THE LAUNDRY ROOM!!! kind of a let-down, but we're tight on space here.
bumsugger Coati7 years ago
Thats' NOT the way we see things over here however,notwithstanding that things of this nature(ie: on the World Wide Web) SHOULD be made as lucid as possible ie: by using blatantly obvious colours such as those that are so patently obvious,that even the proverbial "blind man" can discern one from the other,(despite the fact that polarity plays no part in such a circuit as this) I think that we have the drop on the US.on this one.
stuffman (author)  bumsugger7 years ago
Thanks for the info, as you can see in the pictures, the black cable I used from the wall to the solenoid has black,white and green wires, and the orange has blue, brown and green-with-yellow-stripe wires. I think it may be a regional thing, the orange cable I hacked up came from a European overhead projector I bought at an auction (the plug end was definitely not of this continent). I remember reading somewhere that there is a difference in color schemes from place to place, are you in the states?
Nope,I'm in the UK, where for "donkeys years" we've had RED and BLACK as pos. and neg., but now thanks to the EU we've gone to BROWN and BLUE,respectively.I've no doubt that it IS a regional/National thing,however notwithstanding that,considering that there are only three types or denomination of wire,I think it best to remain at least consistent,and stick to only three colours,still a nice Instructable though.
stuffman (author)  bumsugger7 years ago
Gotcha. The black cable I have follows the white/black/green scheme, and wouldn't you know the only other 3-conductor wire I had is from another country with a different coloring scheme just to confuse things. Thanks again, Shawn
Whatnot7 years ago
It seems a bit risky (also in regards to insurance payout) in that when for some reason the thing overheats it puts the door on fire, also I'd advise to put some sort of box over the solenoids to keep them clean and protect the wiring. Oh and if the power goes out it's risky that you can't leave the place, perhaps some sort of bypass for emergencies is in order.
stuffman (author)  Whatnot7 years ago
There's really no power going to it unless you're powering it up to open the door, so at least you'll be nearby when disaster strikes. And what garage is complete without a fire extinguisher? :0) I do see the argument for DC hardware, 110V seems like overkill for such an easy task as sliding the bolt back, DC is less prone to fiery and catastrophic meltdown, and like the guy below mentioned, you can use solar power if you go DC.
cpf7 years ago
Well, very insecure now people know about it, but for the average person :P
mrklaw7 years ago
This system allows any x-10 wireless remote to open the door. There is no security involved besides that provided by obscurity.
stuffman (author)  mrklaw7 years ago
Very true. I still have the padlock on the outside, but that's mostly because the other side of the garage belongs to the upstairs renter. I wouldn't underestimate the power of security through obscurity though, who would think to include an x10 remote in their lock-picking kit? There are more secure ways to do this, a great way would be to use DC solenoids, a car battery with a battery minder keeping it charged/discharged, and a car alarm. That would be a really long instructable :0)
Neotron7 years ago
Hey i have very similar setups on my house and shop. My wife made the same comment. I fixed that with a trip switch and magnets and my power source is solar so i really never haft to worry power outage. i have had it running for about 3 years now and i have replaced the battery in the key fob once so far my wifes and kids key fob i have not replaced. But i like your design with the 2 i have four smaller ones but longer on my doors. Nice way to protect the things and ones you love. Excellent Job a 10 on the Cool Meter in my books
stuffman (author)  Neotron7 years ago
Solar? Awesome! You should write up an instructable, I'd love to see that. Thanks.
bumsugger7 years ago
Since I'm whats' known as an Electro-Geek,(and since you asked),I'll be pedantic purely in the interests of clarity,not to mention discipline,and state that the wire carrying the voltage to your solenoids,should be either RED or BROWN,and the "return" wire should be either BLACK or BLUE.The GREEN wire as an earth is fine.Apart from those few details,a very nice, neat instructable.
Mr. Rig It7 years ago
I love it. Very cool!
robgonzo7 years ago
Oh what I would have given to have something like this on my front door to keep the apartment people out when I wasn't home. Good job!