Once upon a time, I wrote an instructable on this subject and it has changed my life. As things have progressed very slowly, to some it may have appeared that I fell off the planet. To those that know me, it has been a difficult and arduous but rewarding process. Here , I would like to again share a Do It Yourself version of the turbine that I hope will also help change the world. If this sounds idealistic, forgive me, I tend to be that way. :)
I want to thank everyone - over 100 commenters on my original project - for their input and knowledge as well as their questions that lead me further in my pursuit. Thanks Guys!
I will try to take an approach on this project where I will give steps first and explanations of why following. You will also be able to download, as I did on the original project, a pdf with the whole process. Most of the document is the original with additional information that was not in the original. http://www.spinpower.org/DIY/My_Savonius_DIY.php (This is php to force the download instead of trying to open in your browser.) My website is http://www.spinpower.org if that wasnt clear above. I also have the following website name pointed to the same place http://www.smart-turbine.com .
I want to thank everyone - over 100 commenters on my original project - for their input and knowledge as well as their questions that lead me further in my pursuit. Thanks Guys!
I will try to take an approach on this project where I will give steps first and explanations of why following. You will also be able to download, as I did on the original project, a pdf with the whole process. Most of the document is the original with additional information that was not in the original. http://www.spinpower.org/DIY/My_Savonius_DIY.php (This is php to force the download instead of trying to open in your browser.) My website is http://www.spinpower.org if that wasnt clear above. I also have the following website name pointed to the same place http://www.smart-turbine.com .
Remove these ads by
Signing UpStep 1: Materials Tools and Safety
--Materials--:
Specialty Item prices are what I paid and may change
Magnet wire – 780 feet of 24 AWG or twelve 65 foot spools of 24 AWG $22
http://www.bulkwire.com/product.asp?ProdID=7615&added=1
16 Neodymium magnets - 1”x2”x ½” (I had to order 24 for the $150 price) $150
http://www.forcefieldmagnets.com/catalog/
Rectifiers (one full bridge for each phase – I recommend 3) $6 ea
http://www.forcefieldmagnets.com/catalog/
Plexiglass – ¼” thick sheet about 25”x7” $Free
Scrap at city or school maintenance base
Skate Bearings (you only need 2) $3 ea
Home Improvement Stores
Galvanized sheet metal squares 2”x2.5”x about 18 or 20 gage
Glue – not cyanoacrylate or any others with harsh solvents, but must be
very strong and weather resistant I used Gorilla Glue and Liquid Nails
small projects clear indoor outdoor as well as Liquid nails in a caulk gun
Thread Lock (not the permanent variety, but high strength for sure)
Extension cord – sacrificed for delivering power from turbine to charging location
Screws – must be weather resistant (I use the 2” plated drywall screws, they are easy)
Large washers – used with the above screws for attaching coils to VAWT platform
Pressure treated wood for base of structure (32”x32” area for base)
Rounds (24” diameter, 2 for a single tier or 3 for a two tier)
Stove Pipe (2x 6” diameter for a single tier or 4 for a two tier all 36” length)
Pipe Nipples (3x 36” for single tier or 5 for a two tier)
Pipe Nipples (2x 3” for top extension)
Pipe Couplers (2 for single tier or 4 for two tier)
Pipe Elbows (2)
Bolts (to fit in bearing about 3 or 4 inches long, get several but you only need 2)
Nuts (for bolts, get at least 6 to allow for adjustments – its cheaper than a second trip to the store)
Washers (Fender to fit over the bolts, get at least 6)
Weather Treatment – Polyurethane or outdoor grade paint
Ball Bearing (you may find that buying a childs magnet building kit at a Target is cheapest, you only need one, size not critical but about 1/4” diameter or bigger is good)
Guy Wires and accessories (you will have to tie this to the ground so it doesn't blow over or wiggle)
Separate from the power generator is the rest of the power plant:
Batteries to store and buffer power
Charge Controller for batteries
Inverter to make battery power 110 VAC
Transfer Switch to run Inverter power to a house
--Tools--:
Power Tools:
Router with narrow plunge bit to cut a channel or similar rotary cutting tool
Hand Planer or Belt Sander to true up the rounds
Drill for driving screws and the occasional hole
Drill bits, standard and one paddle style that is the diameter of your bearing
Hole Saw (this is to make a jig, size not critical but should be 2” or bigger)
Multimeter
Soldering Iron, Gun or Torch and solder
Welder - optional for heavy duty build which also requires a length of steel and 1/4x20 screws, a tap to match and some steel squares, about $15 of additional materials around here.
Standard Tools:
Screw Driver
Hand Saw
Wire Cutters
Snips for cutting galvanize squares
Strap or Rope to tie unit together while glue dries (you could weight it down)
Clamp not necessary but will make some things easier
Compass (to find center of rounds)
Pencil
Markers (red and black preferred)
Measuring Tape
T-Square or other Straight Edge
Hammer (you never know with this one, something may need persuading)
Vise Grips (for steel upgrade, used to hold tap if you don't have a tap and die set)
--Safety--:
This is a DIY project, as always, you take responsibility for your choices and actions. This is presented for you to learn from and potentially mimic in order to produce a working electricity generating wind turbine. Also, the power generated is dangerous. Please maintain a high level of respect for this machine. My current revision will directly light a 60 watt light bulb in a 6MPH gust of ... Oh wait, thats not so much a gust as it is a breeze. The power output is scary. Treat it like power from a wall outlet.
Always wear safety glasses, ear protection and take all precautions when working with tools and raw materials.
Good Luck!
Specialty Item prices are what I paid and may change
Magnet wire – 780 feet of 24 AWG or twelve 65 foot spools of 24 AWG $22
http://www.bulkwire.com/product.asp?ProdID=7615&added=1
16 Neodymium magnets - 1”x2”x ½” (I had to order 24 for the $150 price) $150
http://www.forcefieldmagnets.com/catalog/
Rectifiers (one full bridge for each phase – I recommend 3) $6 ea
http://www.forcefieldmagnets.com/catalog/
Plexiglass – ¼” thick sheet about 25”x7” $Free
Scrap at city or school maintenance base
Skate Bearings (you only need 2) $3 ea
Home Improvement Stores
Galvanized sheet metal squares 2”x2.5”x about 18 or 20 gage
Glue – not cyanoacrylate or any others with harsh solvents, but must be
very strong and weather resistant I used Gorilla Glue and Liquid Nails
small projects clear indoor outdoor as well as Liquid nails in a caulk gun
Thread Lock (not the permanent variety, but high strength for sure)
Extension cord – sacrificed for delivering power from turbine to charging location
Screws – must be weather resistant (I use the 2” plated drywall screws, they are easy)
Large washers – used with the above screws for attaching coils to VAWT platform
Pressure treated wood for base of structure (32”x32” area for base)
Rounds (24” diameter, 2 for a single tier or 3 for a two tier)
Stove Pipe (2x 6” diameter for a single tier or 4 for a two tier all 36” length)
Pipe Nipples (3x 36” for single tier or 5 for a two tier)
Pipe Nipples (2x 3” for top extension)
Pipe Couplers (2 for single tier or 4 for two tier)
Pipe Elbows (2)
Bolts (to fit in bearing about 3 or 4 inches long, get several but you only need 2)
Nuts (for bolts, get at least 6 to allow for adjustments – its cheaper than a second trip to the store)
Washers (Fender to fit over the bolts, get at least 6)
Weather Treatment – Polyurethane or outdoor grade paint
Ball Bearing (you may find that buying a childs magnet building kit at a Target is cheapest, you only need one, size not critical but about 1/4” diameter or bigger is good)
Guy Wires and accessories (you will have to tie this to the ground so it doesn't blow over or wiggle)
Separate from the power generator is the rest of the power plant:
Batteries to store and buffer power
Charge Controller for batteries
Inverter to make battery power 110 VAC
Transfer Switch to run Inverter power to a house
--Tools--:
Power Tools:
Router with narrow plunge bit to cut a channel or similar rotary cutting tool
Hand Planer or Belt Sander to true up the rounds
Drill for driving screws and the occasional hole
Drill bits, standard and one paddle style that is the diameter of your bearing
Hole Saw (this is to make a jig, size not critical but should be 2” or bigger)
Multimeter
Soldering Iron, Gun or Torch and solder
Welder - optional for heavy duty build which also requires a length of steel and 1/4x20 screws, a tap to match and some steel squares, about $15 of additional materials around here.
Standard Tools:
Screw Driver
Hand Saw
Wire Cutters
Snips for cutting galvanize squares
Strap or Rope to tie unit together while glue dries (you could weight it down)
Clamp not necessary but will make some things easier
Compass (to find center of rounds)
Pencil
Markers (red and black preferred)
Measuring Tape
T-Square or other Straight Edge
Hammer (you never know with this one, something may need persuading)
Vise Grips (for steel upgrade, used to hold tap if you don't have a tap and die set)
--Safety--:
This is a DIY project, as always, you take responsibility for your choices and actions. This is presented for you to learn from and potentially mimic in order to produce a working electricity generating wind turbine. Also, the power generated is dangerous. Please maintain a high level of respect for this machine. My current revision will directly light a 60 watt light bulb in a 6MPH gust of ... Oh wait, thats not so much a gust as it is a breeze. The power output is scary. Treat it like power from a wall outlet.
Always wear safety glasses, ear protection and take all precautions when working with tools and raw materials.
Good Luck!
Visit Our Store »
Go Pro Today »
Gonna have to think about this a bit.
I wanted to thank you for taking the time and effort to share you ideas, especially in a way that helps facilitate people of any background to build one themselves. Thank You!
I have been interested and have read and learned for 3 years on wind turbines. The very first time I 'googled' wind turbines, it was with intention to build one of my own. However I quickly learned that the options and methods varied so widely that I had a lot to learn before I would make my choice for a build. Always in fear that I would begin purchasing and building only to result in failure due to lack of education and preparation. Always on the edge, and ready to dive in, I came across your instructable while browsing after my weekly newsletter update. Immediately i begain reading your website and instructable, researching the pro's and cons of a savonious, and understanding the practicality. I said outloud "I found my first Wind Turbine, this is it".
That was about 2 weeks ago, and in a few days I had my turbine up in the air. On a budget, my first mount failed quite quicklyl, but I was kind of expecting it. I thought maybe you would be interested in my progress so far, and have been posting videos to share with my out of town friends and family: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rQH8i5YGBQY
Again, I wanted say THANK YOU!
Great video, and great build! :) I'm glad to help. Those magnets and wire are the most costly part of this build, but you know first hand how much energy you are collecting from simply trying to stop the turbine.
You are very welcome.
Brad
If the point is "DIY!", I get it. But if you're advocating for more home wind-power to make everyone less dependent on the system, Reduce-Reuse-Recycle is the mantra that points towards grabbing an old motor from a junkyard.
Regardless, this is a great 'ible!
Having Resource Conservation Coordinator as my professional title I really appreciate the mantra and definitely share it. Its thinking outside the box and consideration for all possibilities before we give up that will help change things for the better. Keep it up.
PS - Thanks for the compliment. :)
Thanks!
A regular permanent magnet motor is designed to perform at a specific RPM and specific electrical frequency - house current. Typically the motor RPM rating is 600 or higher - there are exceptions. A vertical turbine may never go over 100 RPMs in its useful life, so you have to gear up, adding mechanical losses. Also, the wiring inside the motor as I mentioned is optimized for a particular electrical frequency or Hz which will rarely be attained as wind speed changes all of the time - changing the Hz as RPM changes. Also, the magnets used in a motor are complimentary to the need of the motor -as a motor- and are typically much too weak to be very useful in the other direction. In the case of a stepper motor you add severe cogging, (magnetic grabbyness <- not the technical definition), as well.
There's still a lot more than this, but I'm trying to keep it simple as you requested. :)
Where can I get a look at your patent, google was not my friend :(
I thought your rotor method is just like using a stepper motor as a generator, been done for many years??
Michael
A stepper motor would be like a distant cousin. What I have done here is very similar to a stepper motor in that we use permanent magnets and wire to generate power. 7 of the specifics in my patent pertain directly to autonomous adaptation for electrical pathways, voltage stabilization, rpm stabilization and output wattage maximizing output power based on wind condition and without adding any additional moving parts. All facets of the patent have design specifics to attain an optimum balance for these specifics to work properly. This is why the patent was filed with the option to remain hidden. Its kind of like the kernels secret recipe, we all know something similar but the magic is hard to reproduce. I'm sharing enough here to help a DIYer build a powerful and useful machine like the first one I built. Where it can go from there is only limited to the skills and imagination of the builder.
Brad
Two questions:
1) looking at your drawings you have the two pieces of opened out ducting or chimney facing in opposite directions and between the two there appears to be a two inch tube. This tube doesn't seem to be mentioned anywhere?
2) If one made a two-tier version with the top and bottom sections going in opposite directions, could one attach the magnets to the base of the top section and the coils to the top of the bottom section? In this way the magnets and coils would be passing each other at double the speed as in your existing model. Whether this would be more efficient I don't know. True there would need to be some way of having a rotating electrical connection, but that is done all the time.
Beekeeper
1) There is no tube, the pipe sections support the structure once they are cemented in the wood.
2) This is a nice idea that was brought up many times when I published the first version several years ago. The problem is simple - We want to convert the force of the wind to electricity. Speed over the wire will have a direct relationship with the voltage as well as the mass of the wire having a relationship to Amperage. When you start factoring the added complexity of what you suggest, you may also realize that using wire half the gage and twice as long would also double the voltage for the same rotational speed. However, consider that voltage is like pressure and will actually play directly into the amount of force required to start the turbine spinning. These variables are all intertwined and are a very interesting set to play with as I have done for several years now.
2b) a rotating electrical connection will most likely require an electrical brush or some point of contact which will add to maintenance. Not out of the question, but I prefer to make a machine I can just look at for 20 or more years without needing to change brushes or service mechanical parts.
re 1) OK, so what is that little circle in the middle of your drawing? I tried to add a picture but it wouldn't work but it is the same as your little icon on every one of your comments.
Cheers
This is the email that is used after filling the form in.
I have several questions:
1. Do you have a good photo of the entire wind turbine so that you can see how the stator coils are mounted? How close are the coils to the magnets?
2. What should be the inside diameter of the coils? i guess this would be the distance of the two screws around which the wire winds.
3. Do you have a video of the turbine in action?
4. What is the difference between magnetic wire and regular wire of the same gauge? Can regular electronic hookup wire be substituted?
1. I don't think any of the overall photos would do a better job than the one already included in the alternator step. Coils are as close to the magnets as you can get them without making any contact during rotation. You have to leave some extra space for turbulent or storm winds that may twist and rock the frame.
2. Inside diameter should be as small as you can get it. And you are correct about the two screws. :)
3. I will try to find some video of the turbine, most of what I have now is the commercial build and there are some significant differences, however this project was the first generation.
4. Magnet wire is solid core wire with an enamel coating that is very thin vs a PVC or similar sheath that is considerably thicker. Hookup wire can be substituted if it is solid core, like individual lines from inside of Cat5.
so whats the output?