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Step 9Attach Smoke Stack and Headlight with Pegs and Glue
Now that we near completion, you can attach the smokestack and headlamp. Before you do, do any edge-rounding and sanding (second to final sanding) while the areas are free of clutter.
1. Mark out locations for drilling from previously marked centers.
2. Drill shallow wide-diamter hole for the smoke stack (enough to fit or 'cradle' the bottom of the candle-holder=smokestack so that the whole will looks as if a high-precision engineer carefully melded the boiler with the smokestack.
3. Drill peg-hole through center-spike-pilot-hole artifact left by any forstner bit at the bottom of its hole, and also drill a peg hole in the bottom center of the candle-holder.
4. Drill a peg hole for the headlamp (option: inset the headlamp into another wide diameter hole drilled by the forstner bit but I just cut down the headlamp and attached with the wooden peg).
NOTE -- "How do I make the headlamp?" I bought two wooden candle holders, one for smokestack, one for headlamp. I cut the one for the headlamp to reduce its height. I drilled peg holes through their bottoms for wooden pegs which will provide the greatest fastening strength along with a dab of glue. Eventually you will also be putting glue in the cradle hole of the smokestack, too.
5. Glue it all. Don't put too much glue in the peg holes because you can get a hydraulic effect as you push the pegs in; either you won't be able to push the pegs in all the way, or your Conan the Barbarian strength could use the hydraulic effect to force hiogh-pressure glue through the wood, splitting it in a worst-case scenario.
My method: dab pegs with glue, and turn them as you insert them to insure you are spreading the glue over the peg surface.
Make sure to wipe any excess glue because these areas will be left clear-finished to exposed woodgrain, and carpenter's glue dries hard, and you can mar the wood getting it off after it dries.
6. If I forget to tell you later: paint the sinside and top of the smokestack black to simulate soot stains. Pain the headlamp whatever: Ipainted it red to match the other paint, but if I had had yellow, I would have painted the peg-head yellow to simulate a lamp light.
7. Come to think of it, if you understand train technology well, you can add other things on the boiler; I forget what they are even though my friend Ken, an expert with computers, networks, D&D, science fiction, and trains, told me all about them on our trip to the Museum of Science last month. Condensers? Relief valves? Whistles too, no doubt.
1. Mark out locations for drilling from previously marked centers.
2. Drill shallow wide-diamter hole for the smoke stack (enough to fit or 'cradle' the bottom of the candle-holder=smokestack so that the whole will looks as if a high-precision engineer carefully melded the boiler with the smokestack.
3. Drill peg-hole through center-spike-pilot-hole artifact left by any forstner bit at the bottom of its hole, and also drill a peg hole in the bottom center of the candle-holder.
4. Drill a peg hole for the headlamp (option: inset the headlamp into another wide diameter hole drilled by the forstner bit but I just cut down the headlamp and attached with the wooden peg).
NOTE -- "How do I make the headlamp?" I bought two wooden candle holders, one for smokestack, one for headlamp. I cut the one for the headlamp to reduce its height. I drilled peg holes through their bottoms for wooden pegs which will provide the greatest fastening strength along with a dab of glue. Eventually you will also be putting glue in the cradle hole of the smokestack, too.
5. Glue it all. Don't put too much glue in the peg holes because you can get a hydraulic effect as you push the pegs in; either you won't be able to push the pegs in all the way, or your Conan the Barbarian strength could use the hydraulic effect to force hiogh-pressure glue through the wood, splitting it in a worst-case scenario.
My method: dab pegs with glue, and turn them as you insert them to insure you are spreading the glue over the peg surface.
Make sure to wipe any excess glue because these areas will be left clear-finished to exposed woodgrain, and carpenter's glue dries hard, and you can mar the wood getting it off after it dries.
6. If I forget to tell you later: paint the sinside and top of the smokestack black to simulate soot stains. Pain the headlamp whatever: Ipainted it red to match the other paint, but if I had had yellow, I would have painted the peg-head yellow to simulate a lamp light.
7. Come to think of it, if you understand train technology well, you can add other things on the boiler; I forget what they are even though my friend Ken, an expert with computers, networks, D&D, science fiction, and trains, told me all about them on our trip to the Museum of Science last month. Condensers? Relief valves? Whistles too, no doubt.
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