World's Smallest Electronic Shocker w/LED-PCB Mounted

Picture of World's Smallest Electronic Shocker w/LED-PCB Mounted
This is a 450v high voltage shocker/capacitor charger. Please note, though, that this device has a very high output voltage, and it (might?) kill the weak of heart (not to mention, it HURTS), so be careful when handling any capacitor or high voltage circuit. Thanks to Plasmana who got me started.
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: 1: Get the components.

Picture of 1: Get the components.
Go to any place that devolopes desposable camera film. Ask nicely and you should be able to get a couple for free. The guts have already been removed...

Step 2: 2: This is the camera board with components

Picture of 2: This is the camera board with components
Here we have the components needed labeled.

Step 3: 3: Components desoldered-PCB marked for cut

Picture of 3: Components desoldered-PCB marked for cut
Step title says it all.

Step 4: 4: Sand PBC for soldering and drill holes for

Picture of 4: Sand PBC for soldering and drill holes for
I used 220 grit sandpaper and a mini screwdriver to sand the board where illustrated. I couldn't find a drill bit small enought so I used a regular drill with a snapped in half sewing needle for a drill bit. Use the raw edge of the broken needle for the drill tip.

Step 5: 5: Cut PCB board

Picture of 5: Cut PCB board
The saw.JPG
I used a small reciprecating saw to make the cut. I've seen that some have used wire cutters to do this. But I got the saw.

Step 6: 6: Everything ready for soldering

Picture of 6: Everything ready for soldering
Here everything is ready to be soldered. The capacitor faces text side out. I bend the leads of the capacitor and wires such that they would not fall thru the holes. After makeing sure that nothing was touching something that is shouldn't be, I soldered everything up. Updated picture forgot to add jumper wire (Shown in Blue on PCB).

Step 7: 7: Finished

Picture of 7: Finished
shocker done 1.JPG
shocker done 2.JPG
shocker done 3.JPG
shocker done 4.JPG
shocker done 5.JPG
All done. The close up picts are second shocker I built. The blue wire in first pict is the orange wire in the rest of the pictures.
1-40 of 78Next »
Ploopy10 months ago

Cool Project !

Could I Modify This To Make It Into A Capacitor Charger ?

my wookie1 year ago
"6:6" is a little hard to read, maybe its just cause i'm partially color blind but just in case, is this correct?
sshiraj2 years ago
this was the ckt that i chose.
sshiraj2 years ago
I need your help guys!im doing my pre-final year in Electronics and Communication engineering.Im kinda desperate here, coz i chose the Taser for my mini project and it turns out that i cudn find the damn transformer used in the ckt anywhere.Thats when i stumbled upon this page.So could you please give me more details about this project.
Thanks in advance.
will this capacitor work?
dlcoates13 years ago
Here is a quick question. I have seen you and Plasmana attach that little yellow capacitor to the circut. Is it really necessary? There is another video of someone making the same one as you but he doesn't add the capacitor at all and it still does the same thing without the capacitor. Can you please explain the difference?
ddvniek3 years ago
The voltage of your shocker is pretty weak compared against mine. Mine gives out 720V...
Why is this?
N3v3rm0r33 years ago
The 450V negative lead is the battery negative, right?
Slim494 years ago
Hello all, have redesigned & created the    Tube Tazer.
grabbed more fun pic cameras for my "Daughters School Project". I wanted a more "D R O P" resistance device & everything neatly protected.
the subminature micro switch is positioned inside the 1 1/4 "PVC tube.
you squeeze the tube to charge, .....3- 5 sec. is plenty!!
I also wanted my actual college bound daughter to be able to change the batterys. So, I cut the battery holder out of the camera case & slide inside.

I only wish for a way to drain off the excess charge w/o blowing the board!
have KILLED 2 after discharging it against a metal surface. bummer :-(
its all fun,
Mr. Steve
Props to xkred27... this works sooo well!
Slim494 years ago
Hello All,
built a 2nd one today!
I found that of the 7 cameras I received, only 2 were red LED's.
I believe the correct fun camera's item # is 3J9162.
{ located on bottom right }
see attached pix.
I concealed everything inside a Grill Lighter ! :-)
very cool,
Slim494 years ago
I went to the local big "W-box" drug store & asked for 6 Fun cameras for my daughters' school Photo project.
Scored 7 !
I built this in an hour , mostly due to finding gear & stuff.
a 5 sec. charge is a shocking surprise.
THIS WORKS AS STATED. probably make a couple more .
I used a Dremel tool with cut off abrasive wheel for the surgery on PCB bd.
I am trying to "shoe horn" it into an old Grille Lighter. {more innocent looking}
will post pic when done.
Congrats to Plasmana & to Xkred27 for a great follow up.
Slim494 years ago
this is the basic electronics method.
to protect the dioder or transistors from HEAT while soldering.
you take a alligator clip or a aluminum heat sinking clip, made just for this purpose.
even small needle nose pliers & a rubber band on handles work.
clip to the lead you are soldering, between the body & your heat.
that keeps you from cooking the transistor.
though pre-tin & be quick.
Mr. Steve
codex6535 years ago
nice job! the bottom of it looks really professional! do you know that you can make this even higher? like in th 760v range?
add more batteries i had mine cranking out 1.2kv before the transistor popped :D
How many batteries did you use?
OXI2vasyl4 years ago
how much voltage can stand?
OXI2vasyl4 years ago
I took 12 cameras codak and all plates were colorful lol, few were equal
More power!4 years ago
Help, my PCB is really strange, it has a 7 pin transformer for example.
Will  post pics when I have time but in the meantime I welcome any suggestions.
chemguy5 years ago
Please show the top of the board. And a schematic would be nice..
chemguy5 years ago
This step is very unclear about what you are soldering and desoldering. Please show us more clearly where the jumper wires go and WHAT you are sanding because I dont see any need for it at all.
bylerfamily5 years ago
Yay!Mine works!I soldered the negative wire of the shocker directly to the negative of a battery and the positive wire hangs below the positive so to shock someone I hold the wire to the positive terminal of the battery.
smallll zapppppppppppp!.jpg
xkred27 (author)  bylerfamily5 years ago
Cool, I'm glad to see that you were able to get it to work.
can you edit in a schematic, an illustrated picture of where the capacitor and wires go, or something? I would love to build this, but I can't quite make it out. thanks for the feedback in advance.
Yeah,I was to lazy to add a capacitor but it still hurts,the shock I recieved was far from faint.
*cough* Add a 220 F capacitor *cough*
you mean 220 uf or .22 uf or 2.2uf or 22 uf, but not 220 f.
He means 220 farad capacitor,OW!
Shagglepuff5 years ago
Here's an idea- hook up a flash cap to it so that it charges it up and pulses out all of its current when you zap someone with it.
bryanb3335 years ago
you can use a hack saw witha blade fore metal but.... be very careful the board will prolly crack
bryanb3335 years ago
kodak fun saver has the right board for this project other kodak may not.
Arduino Guy5 years ago
The world's smallest electric shocker has became smaller!
the AA batteries are way too big to hide it good. but if u use 2 LR44 button cells
it becomes smaller!
bloke20225 years ago
can you use this as an electronic sparkler (for spud gun ignition)?
142595 years ago
thats not the capacitor
Colonel88 142595 years ago
That actually is. Google image "Film capacitor".

The bigger one is actually an "electrolytic capacitor.
bloke20225 years ago
wire cutters do NOT work for this project, the board cracks and chips.
edit: sorry, actually i found another camera that has the (date) as said below is 4/2011, and 30416 (i think that's the lot number or something) and the led is red. I have another camera that says 4/2011 too, but the other number is 40416 and THAT camera is orange lighted. That's my guess on which ones will and won't work.
I have a camera that has 11/2010 printed on the bottom. It's probably close to the last date that kodak manufactured that has the right circuit for this project. all my other cameras have newer, incompatible circuits.
deathshells5 years ago
hello dont know if anyone can help me on the matter but does this work with this board... it is a kodak disposable and looked exactly like the one in the photos of the instructable. i have attached a photo of what i mean... hopefully anyone can answer this question or whether kodak caught onto the tazer idea lol
which one.jpg
No,sorry.That one uses an neon bulb indicator,and it has only a four pin transformer.You can tell if it is a working camera or not by the color of the light.If the light is orange,no.Red or green,sure.
1-40 of 78Next »