This is a 450v high voltage shocker/capacitor charger. Please note, though, that this device has a very high output voltage, and it (might?) kill the weak of heart (not to mention, it HURTS), so be careful when handling any capacitor or high voltage circuit. Thanks to Plasmana who got me started.

Step 1: 1: Get the components.

Go to any place that devolopes desposable camera film. Ask nicely and you should be able to get a couple for free. The guts have already been removed...
<p>Cool Project !</p><p>Could I Modify This To Make It Into A Capacitor Charger ?</p>
&quot;6:6&quot; is a little hard to read, maybe its just cause i'm partially color blind but just in case, is this correct?
this was the ckt that i chose.
hello <br>I need your help guys!im doing my pre-final year in Electronics and Communication engineering.Im kinda desperate here, coz i chose the Taser for my mini project and it turns out that i cudn find the damn transformer used in the ckt anywhere.Thats when i stumbled upon this page.So could you please give me more details about this project. <br>Thanks in advance. <br>
will this capacitor work? http://www.wellgainelectronics.com/ero0047uf350v10kt1807.aspx
Here is a quick question. I have seen you and Plasmana attach that little yellow capacitor to the circut. Is it really necessary? There is another video of someone making the same one as you but he doesn't add the capacitor at all and it still does the same thing without the capacitor. Can you please explain the difference?
The voltage of your shocker is pretty weak compared against mine. Mine gives out 720V...<br>Why is this?
The 450V negative lead is the battery negative, right?
Hello all, have redesigned &amp; created the&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Tube Tazer.<br> grabbed more fun pic cameras for my &quot;Daughters School Project&quot;. I wanted a more &quot;D R O P&quot; resistance device &amp; everything neatly protected.<br> the subminature micro switch is positioned inside the 1 1/4 &quot;PVC tube.<br> you squeeze the tube to charge, .....3- 5 sec. is plenty!!<br> I also wanted my actual college bound daughter to be able to change the batterys. So, I cut the battery holder out of the camera case &amp; slide inside.<br> <br> I only wish for a way to drain off the excess charge w/o blowing the board!<br> have KILLED 2 after discharging it against a metal surface. bummer :-(<br> its all fun,<br> Mr. Steve<br> Props to xkred27... this works sooo well!
Hello All, <br>built a 2nd one today! <br>I found that of the 7 cameras I received, only 2 were red LED's. <br>I believe the correct fun camera's item # is 3J9162. <br>{ located on bottom right } <br>see attached pix. <br>I concealed everything inside a Grill Lighter ! :-) <br>very cool, <br>Steve
Whoa.....! <br>I went to the local big &quot;W-box&quot; drug store &amp; asked for 6 Fun cameras for my daughters' school Photo project. <br>Scored 7 ! <br>I built this in an hour , mostly due to finding gear &amp; stuff. <br>WoW! <br>a 5 sec. charge is a shocking surprise. <br>THIS WORKS AS STATED. probably make a couple more . <br>I used a Dremel tool with cut off abrasive wheel for the surgery on PCB bd. <br>I am trying to &quot;shoe horn&quot; it into an old Grille Lighter. {more innocent looking} <br>will post pic when done. <br>Congrats to Plasmana &amp; to Xkred27 for a great follow up. <br>Steve
People, <br>this is the basic electronics method. <br>to protect the dioder or transistors from HEAT while soldering. <br>you take a alligator clip or a aluminum heat sinking clip, made just for this purpose. <br>even small needle nose pliers &amp; a rubber band on handles work. <br> clip to the lead you are soldering, between the body &amp; your heat. <br>that keeps you from cooking the transistor. <br>though pre-tin &amp; be quick. <br>Mr. Steve
nice job! the bottom of it looks really professional! do you know that you can make this even higher? like in th 760v range?
add more batteries i had mine cranking out 1.2kv before the transistor popped :D
How many batteries did you use?
how much voltage can stand?
I took 12 cameras codak and all plates were colorful lol, few were equal
Help, my PCB is really strange, it has a 7 pin transformer for example.<br /> Will&nbsp; post pics when I have time but in the meantime I welcome any suggestions.<br />
Please show the top of the board. And a schematic would be nice..
This step is very unclear about what you are soldering and desoldering. Please show us more clearly where the jumper wires go and WHAT you are sanding because I dont see any need for it at all.
Yay!Mine works!I soldered the negative wire of the shocker directly to the negative of a battery and the positive wire hangs below the positive so to shock someone I hold the wire to the positive terminal of the battery.
Cool, I'm glad to see that you were able to get it to work.
can you edit in a schematic, an illustrated picture of where the capacitor and wires go, or something? I would love to build this, but I can't quite make it out. thanks for the feedback in advance.<br />
Yeah,I was to lazy to add a capacitor but it still hurts,the shock I recieved was far from faint.
*cough* Add a 220 F capacitor *cough*<br/>
you mean 220 uf or .22 uf or 2.2uf or 22 uf, but not 220 f.
He means 220 farad capacitor,OW!<br />
Here's an idea- hook up a flash cap to it so that it charges it up and pulses out all of its current when you zap someone with it.
you can use a hack saw witha blade fore metal but.... be very careful the board will prolly crack
kodak fun saver has the right board for this project other kodak may not.
The world's smallest electric shocker has became smaller!<br /> the AA batteries are way too big to hide it good. but if u use 2 LR44 button cells<br /> it becomes smaller!
can you use this as an electronic sparkler (for spud gun ignition)?<br />
thats not the capacitor
That actually is. Google image &quot;Film capacitor&quot;.<br /> <br /> The bigger one is actually an &quot;electrolytic capacitor.
wire cutters do NOT&nbsp;work for this project, the board cracks and chips.<br />
edit: sorry, actually i found another camera that has the (date) as said below is 4/2011, and 30416 (i think that's the lot number or something) and the led is red. I have another camera that says 4/2011 too, but the other number is 40416 and THAT camera is orange lighted. That's my guess on which ones will and won't work.
I have a camera that has 11/2010 printed on the bottom. It's probably close to the last date that kodak manufactured that has the right circuit for this project. all my other cameras have newer, incompatible circuits.
hello dont know if anyone can help me on the matter but does this work with this board... it is a kodak disposable and looked exactly like the one in the photos of the instructable. i have attached a photo of what i mean... hopefully anyone can answer this question or whether kodak caught onto the tazer idea lol
No,sorry.That one uses an neon bulb indicator,and it has only a four pin transformer.You can tell if it is a working camera or not by the color of the light.If the light is orange,no.Red or green,sure.
Wow, thanks, that helped me a lot! i just got a lot of cameras from cvs and didn't want to take one apart only to find that it doesnt have the right circuit. I found one of my cameras has a red light! perfect... :D
sorry only just read... thanks for the info
good job but i tryed it and you don't need the capacitor
dude im confused dont you need resistors? mail me back at fub1985@aol.com cheers
the resistors are surface mounted!
can you post a same instructable with a 4 pin transformer?
<a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-the-Worlds-Smallest-Electronic-Shock/?ALLSTEPS">http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-build-the-Worlds-Smallest-Electronic-Shock/?ALLSTEPS</a><br/><br/>this shocker is smaller than yours, and it has detailed schematics, and has an led build on as well.<br/>
You are correct my friend Plasmana's shocker is the smallest, and is the inspiration for my PCB mounted with led version. I built the version you mention and wanted something sturdier. Plasmana's very last step shows an led installed but the Instructable does not explain how to attach the led.
Shall I make an instructable about how to attach an LED like on the last step?

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