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Build a real bell-striking clock for your PC and a fire extinguisher-striking clock.

Build a real bell-striking clock for your PC and a fire extinguisher-striking clock.
A brass bell, a small relay a few more things and a real bell can strike the hours on your desktop.
Though this project runs on Windows and Mac OS X also, I idecided to install Ubuntu Linux on a PC I found in the trash and work on that : I had never worked with Linux before, I learned some Processing language and wrote a sketch to run an analog clock on it.
Then I interfaced the bell to the serial port of the PC and built this bell striking clock.

Read further and learn how to make a fire extinguisher striking clock also.

In the video the clapper strikes a bit too fast for the camera...


 
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Step 1Processing

Processing
Processing Processing is both a programming language and an integrated development environment aimed at electronic arts and visual design. It is based on Java and is open source as most good things are now. It can be downloaded from Processing's home page.
In its basic use it is very simple to learn and gives "instant gratification of visual feedback" as aptly written in Wikipedia.
I'm not much of a programmer but it took a few hours to me to get to the result from scratch thanks to a great deal of examples and tutorial.
Many stunning visual artistic performances are given with the aid of Processing and many of them have their Processing source code available for download. One of my preferred is Substrate : I spent a lot of time looking at the drawing build under my eyes.

The code i wrote is very basic : it creates a canvas, assigns color for the background. Every hand of the clock is drawn the same vertical position with respect of the coordinate system, the trick is to displace and rotate the coordinate system. A common trick I saw on many examples : the angle of rotation is in linear ratio with the seconds, minutes and hours.

At the hours a burst of space characters is sent to the serial port. The number of characters per burst being the number of strikes I want the bell to ring, the hours actually.

You don't really have to learn Processing to replicate this toy. In the analog_clock.zip attached you'll find the applications ready to run on Linux, Windows and MAC OS X.
For windows just extract the application.windows directory and run the exe. That's it.
The program will look for the first COM port available (serial port COM1 if you don't use it) and attach to it. The character to drive the bell will come out of it.
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35 comments
May 31, 2011. 10:45 PMbeehard44 says:
on a recent trip to switzerland, the church bell has 2 tones, one for quarter minutes and a lower one for the hours. If it's 1215, the bell will ring one time in the higher pitch. If it's 1245, it will ring three times in the higher pitch. If it's 1300, it will ring 4 times in the higher pitch, few seconds pause, then one time in the lower pitch (it's 12 hour, not 24 hour)
Just a suggestion
Feb 19, 2009. 9:35 PMRob K says:
I have build the circuit but I am having problems.

So far it is just a relay, it doesn't click, . Can you explain this a litte better for me

Larger relay may require two space characters per click, others may require a larger Baud rate than the current 300 for a shorter pulse.
Where does this exactly get changed. I looked at where it might be but just messed up the .pde.

It is a fairly good size 5v relay. 115ma coil. 240v 16A. I was able to make it click like crazy when I ran the MiniPOV programing.
Feb 24, 2009. 2:30 AMRob K says:
I will try that,thank you.

So far it is working when I apply 5 volts to the other side of the diode on pin 3 of the serial port( at least the circuit is right). I have always been partial to the if it low voltage and low amps Check it With Your Tongue. I didn't feel anything when the clock did its thing. It is a USB to serial converter. The computer and the and the Processing program finds it as COM8. or as 1 in the black text field below all of the code.

Below is a picture of the modified relay (striker). It works fairly well after I stretched one of the contacts and bent the actuator a little. It has 2.5mm (10 gauge US) copper wire JB welded to it. One piece for a striker and another piece for a stand that will be screwed to the base.

I am taking pictures as I go(so far at 22). I get this done, it is going into a big slide show. The pictures can be found here on my flicker SET page.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/20102150@N06/sets/72157613856120191/
It would not let me do a name of link for some reason.

Thanks again
Rob
Jan 26, 2009. 12:36 AMRob K says:
I would like to try the fire extinguisher striking clock, but I don't have a Arduino or have a parallel or a serial port on this computer. I found the fire extinguisher clock while searching around on Youtube for LED clocks.
Jan 26, 2009. 9:19 AMRob K says:
I liked the clock. It gave me a idea on what I can possibly use a metal motor shroud for. It has a nice clang to it when you tap it with a knuckle.
Jan 31, 2009. 12:21 AMRob K says:
I looked into parts for this. Looks like for the electronics $8 US and for a USB to serial/parallel (parallel for the minipov) around $9 US.
Feb 1, 2009. 11:32 AMRob K says:
I don't really have anything to scavenge through. Well I had a old printer but all that got me was a broken powersupply and 2 stepper motors. The cast aluminum motor shroud is maybe worth 50-60 bucks and the heat sink for the control board about 30. The metal motor shroud and heat sink is from a Titan 440XC paint sprayer. I should be able to fit the electronics inside that control board heat sink or inside the shroud itself.
Feb 25, 2008. 10:39 AMJack of Most Trades says:
I like this! one question, 5Volt, I haven't taken a look at Processing, but would it be possible to program it to strike ship's time?
Feb 22, 2008. 8:38 PMDoc Holliday says:
I don't have a motor. This bell is from the 1880's and was used at a missionary church for the Slickpoo (Nez Pierce) in Idaho. It's cast iron, has a cast iron frame, and a wheel which pulled by a rope, swings the bell. It takes two people to even maneuver it on a dolly. Is it okay to post pictures here without an instructable, or should I forward the pics to somebody who can do something with them? Also, since I know where more bells can be found, is there a way to set up a sequence of bells ringing? Thus "chimes". Warning: bells are pricey: $200 for small antique farm bells, over $2K for church bells like mine (I was in the right place at the right time), and these are just the cast iron ones; brass is only for the rich, so unless you buy an Indian Fake Ship's bell fugettaboutit. All the ship's officers vied to get the bell from their decommissioned ships. Still, there's no reason not to collect a lot of misc. bells and have a go.
Feb 23, 2008. 9:41 PMtechnodude92 says:
You can leave another comment w/ your pics at the bottom just click add images when writing a new comment and upload them to your instructables library.
Feb 23, 2008. 8:32 AMDoc Holliday says:
I'll get pics. It's at a friend's place in the country now. When we moved to the city, I had to store lotsa stuff. And sell my farm equipment...I miss my tractor, and my trout pond, workshop, lumber supply, storage areas ... 8<{( Working on moving back. The bell swings as you describe and the clapper hits it. However, hitting the rim of the bell with a piece of metal or even a rock works just fine. I also have one of those "one-lung" gas engines (ca 1920) what I swapped a bell for. It was used to pump water in a well house, so came with a hydraulic ram and is in really nice condition. I want to take both it and the bell and place them under glass tops as "end tables" in one of our courtyards. Ring the bell, fire up the engine. Back to the bell: what I saw in Tacoma (Point Defiance Park) was essentially a hammer head striking the inside rim of the bell (it's sheltered that way) and it looked to be driven by a large solenoid similar to those in washing machines (120V). Maybe X10 has something that would help me cobble this together? I'd like to do it this year, since I'm planning on building another country place real soon, and getting lesser projects done now is helpful.
Feb 22, 2008. 6:45 AMARIrish says:
I believe this is my first ever comment...I'm absolutely trying this out, just as soon as I can get hold of a nice bell. I wonder if I can then get it to ring when the phone or doorbell rings...that would be great.
Feb 21, 2008. 6:59 PMDoc Holliday says:
I have a *huge" wheel driven antique iron church bell, and want to automate a "BAWAOOONG" using this idea. I saw something along these lines at a waterfront park in Tacoma, WA. A hammer mounted to a solenoid slammed against the inside rim of the bell. I think I'd need a 120v washing machine solenoid and an old hammer head to do this, but have no clue about how to get a computer to activate it. Would appreciate ideas, and then send resulting pictures (and sound!) to here.
Feb 21, 2008. 9:56 PMjoe.08 says:
just use a relay
Feb 21, 2008. 3:02 PMmaestro8 says:
Ack! Looks like someone hasn't read "The Art of Electronics"... Never forget that every digital circuit is, at heart, a specially-designed analog circuit! Your circuit has a few shortcomings that may bite some unwary hobbyist in the arse, if she makes a poor component selection. I'd be a bit concerned about connecting this circuit to my USB port... you don't seem to have any provision for limiting the current drawn from the USB's 5 volt supply! Why not add a resistor between the NPN's emitter and ground? I'm also concerned about your use of the RS232 signal. According to spec (which isn't often followed) it may swing as much as 15 volts. Between the diode and the NPN's base-emitter junction, only 1.5 volts will be "dropped". The rest of the drop will happen in the resistor, causing a current draw on the order of 10 mA. This is more than enough to charge the cap and saturate the transistor... luckily, most RS232 drivers have short-circuit protection. Don't depend on source protection in all your designs, though! It's a bad habit to get into... Lastly, there doesn't seem to be a clear path for the capacitor's current to flow to ground, other than by leaking through the NPN's base-emitter junction. This makes it quite difficult to determine the RC time constant for your switch. An easy fix for this would be to add a resistor across the capacitor. A more elegant fix would be to introduce a 555 timer IC in "single shot" mode... just be sure to keep the wide swing of the RS232 signal in mind.
Feb 19, 2008. 5:30 AMLinuxH4x0r says:
Cool! might have to try this
Feb 18, 2008. 3:47 PMtechnick29 says:
This is great! I can't wait to try this myself...
Feb 18, 2008. 11:51 AMGorillazMiko says:
Smart.
Way too complicated for me, but amazing job you did anyways, a very good job.
Feb 18, 2008. 4:39 PMnf119 says:
I love this kind of stuff. Did you have to disable flow control on the serial line?
Feb 18, 2008. 8:05 PMnrlaing says:
That's self defeatist. Nothing is too complicated, given enough time... :)

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