While I have not yet found an aluminum can that is equivalent to the brass Trangia, I have been able to find a single solution that does the following:
1. uses readily found materials
2. supports a "pot" to boil water to heat or cook various trail mix
3. integrates a windscreen that will not blow away
4. reduce lost heat and improve boil time
...by building a chimney for my can stove.
The can stove chimney I built solves all of the problems listed above using readily found 214 or 215 and a 315 tin can. There is room for improvement, however, as far as how the cans are connected and stabilized and what other materials and coatings might be used. (With tin (zinc) coated cans you may want to add some barbecue paint )
Since temperatures can get pretty high its probably best to stay with steel unless you can afford titanium. You can experiment with aluminum if it is thick enough and you are prepared to handle the situation if the aluminum melts out on the trial.
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Signing UpStep 1The cans (or whatever material you choose to use)
Starting from the left with the last can - a mixed vegetable can, it is shown upside down with the top cut out and a 1-1/2" hole cut in the bottom. Holes are easy to cut by first using a punch to knock dots in a 1-1/2" circle which are then cut-connected with a knife.
The next is the "pot" can that holds water for boiling. I used a 16 oz. slim Coconut water beverage can. After the top is popped and the contents consumed the remainder of the top is cut out to make the opening wider and uniform.
Next is a sweetened condensed milk can with both top and bottom removed with a can opener. It is the same diameter as the vegetable can.
Next is another vegetable can with both top and bottom cut out. I had to find one that had a folded seam on both ends in order to do this. 8 holes are punched just under the rim and steel wire inserted to hold a piece of 1/4" hardware cloth which will support the pot.
Next can is the stove.
Next is the bottom can which is a 315 tin can for the air intake unit. Only the top needs to be removed. Punch 8 holes below the rim (or you can go deeper) to receive the steel wire mesh. Hardware cloth can also be added on top of the mesh but I just used the wire mesh by itself.
As you can see neatness is not an absolute necessity for the chimney to work. The wire's job is to support the entire load of the stove, the pot and the rest of the chimney setup so build accordingly.
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