The parts list:
8x 10-32 x 3/8" pan head screw - 5/8" long
8x 10-32 wingnuts
6x #4 brass wood screw - 1" long
White cloth
Wooden bits
Tools:
Saw
Staple-gun
Small drill with 1/16" and 3/16" bits
Countersink tool (or a bigger drill bit)
For the wooden bits, I used 3/16" x 1 1/8" slats, cut into the following lengths:
6x 4"
2x 14"
4x 20"
2x 26"
This will make a 14"x20" frame and a 20"x26" frame. You may use any lengths you want as long as the shorter slats are at least 2" shorter than the longer slats.
The parts picture (second picture below) shows all the parts for the smaller of the two frames.
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Signing UpStep 1Drill the frame components
In one long and one short slat from each frame, drill one or two small holes into the edge of the slat. On the small frame, I used one hole and on the larger frame I used two. This will be where the feet are attached with the brass screws. If you are using one foot per edge, drill the hole in the center of the slat. If you are adding two feet per edge, drill the holes a quarter of the way in from each end.
Drill a 1/16" hole in the center of the 4" foot pieces. Countersink the holes for the small brass screws using a countersinking bit or a larger drill bit.
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I have used 54"x108" (137.2x 274.3 cm) white plastic banquet table cloths as difussion material (cut to size) in both light boxes and diffuser frames. One tablecloth would make 4 ea. 20" x 26" frames. They work very well and are super cheap. I have found them for as little as $1.99. If using incandescent or other lighting source that creates heat, keep your light source at least 10" from the plastic or it could melt .