Step 3: Remove the Original Lateral Indicators

The original lateral indicators are simply metal dowels that are held in place by rubber o-rings that allow some resistance and hold the indicators firmly. This system is functional but imprecise and frustrating, since when you are trying to move them a tiny distance to just barely touch the rim you end up either pushing too far or not moving them all!

To remove them, simply grab ahold of the plastic tips with pliers and pull them off, then pull the indicators out the other end. You may find that another set of pliers to grasp the other end is helpful if you have them available, but they should not be necessary.
<p>better yet, find an old thrown away bike, use that</p>
<p>This again runs into the issue of having to true wheels of different dimensions.</p>
<p>Thanks for sharing this. The instructions were clear and I'm sure anyone can now replicate it. </p><p>Question: How wide of an axle would this thing accommodate? I regularly need to work with electric bike motors that have a 150 mm dropout spacing.</p>
<p>I used $20 of 1.5 inch PVC and a piece of scrap metal. It works perfectly for quick release wheels (there's a changeable center piece for front or rear hubs that joins the stand together), but different upright bars would be needed for axles with nuts.</p>
Seriously? There is nothing precise about this. why not just spend a couple more bucks and buy the Workman Pro stand. still sub par compared to the ones we use at the shop, but better than that thing and it works right out of the box. If you really wanna build your own get an old fork, mount it upside-down to a board then find a way to attach a dial gauge to it so you you can keep track. then just flip the wheel. You can use the gauge to tell when it is even on both sides.
I'm looking at the Workman Pro on REI's site. Looks like it's pretty much exactly the same as my modder for 50% more. So everybody can decide individually if saving 50% is better for them or not. It has a roundness gauge that will hit both edges of the wheel too, which as discussed in the instructable is not preferable according to most wheelbuilders and Barnett's, so if I were to buy the Workman Pro I would personally want to mod that anyway. Also, the bolts installed on this mod can be moved hundreths of a millimeter and can true to well under 0.2mm, which is widely considered an extremely tight tolerance, and well as under the "acceptable" tolerance of 0.5 mm. So that seems pretty precise. Finally, the old fork method and a dial guage is a good idea, but for me personally, flipping the wheel over and over is unnecessary effort, when my modder or a Park TS-3 or the Workman Pro holds it right there for ya and does the job just as well (the value of a dial gauge is discussed in the instructable, too). Thanks for the input!
Any ideas on how to attach a dial gauge sturdily? Love this mod by the way.
Very cool! I will try it ;-)
This is a great mod to a good truing stand. I've got one of these stands on the way and am looking forward to modifying it along these lines. Regarding dial gauges and the like, two things. Firstly, a dial gauge will make the work easier as it can just rub on the rim, removing the need to fine tune the lateral screws. Secondly, one the key issues is to maintain the rim in a central position relative to the hub. Using a dial gauge you can judge not only where the rim goes to the left and right, but also where the true centre is. Knowing this makes truing the wheel more accurate, especially the rear where there is considerable dish. The Park TS-2 truing stand get around this problem by using a pincer gauge that simultaneously brings in the left and right indicators. A neat solution, but the TS-2 retails for 5 times the Performance stand.
Great instructable!&nbsp; I recently bought this truing stand and was looking for a way to mod it for better precision.&nbsp; This is perfect for my needs.&nbsp; I agree that truing while using the frame is doable, but is just not a great system.&nbsp;&nbsp;By nature, the Seatstay and Chainstay do provide areas to mount a temporary gauge but it is just that, temporary.&nbsp; In the time it takes a person to clamp their temporary gauge on their chainstay, I've got my wheel in the truing stand and already making adjustments.&nbsp; I'm not quite sure why people comment on an instructable just to prove they don't need to do the thing they're reading.&nbsp; I&nbsp;used to true on the frame, but there are things you cannot do while it is on the frame.&nbsp; The first time I checked my wheels on this stand, I realized my roundness was out as well as the true wasn't as good as I thought.&nbsp; If for $50 I can get a more precise way of measuring and adjusting roundness, trueness, and dish&nbsp;then I'll take it!&nbsp; Good jod and thanks!
Not to discredit this project or comments to it, but I have the best truing stand for free, and that is the bike frame/fork itself. Honestly, I have never seen the necessity for a truing stand despite over two decades of cycling experience, and I'm about as perfectionist as it gets when it comes to wheel-true, since I expected to have perfect stability at 80MPH+ (and have tested that when going for the world speed record). Since a typical bicycle fork will not accommodate a rear wheel width, and since the wheels are already mounted on the bike, why not just use the frame itself? An ideal brake setting (assuming you have properly matched your brake levers to your cantilevers or calipers) puts the brake pads 1mm from the rim surface (and they should meet firm and flat, with exception to toe-in to counter fork/stay torsion). If the question of more precise truing is asked, just tighten your brakes to allow less and less clearance. I have gotten wheels true "mounted" in every circumstance, with no need to remove the wheel from the inherent truing stand to another device to simulate what was already there before I removed the wheel in the first place. Again, no disrespect to this project, but IMHO, truing stands are about as useful as training-wheels for tricycles, and I still do not understand how they save any labor in truing a wheel when the equipment is already available to anyone owning a bike in the first place. Careful attention to detail gives me a true within 0.01" without disturbing the wheel mountings at all once I determine that both sides of the axle are properly bottomed in the dropouts. Bicycle forks and rear triangles are built on jigs that assure proper alignment, and that is about as true as you need to get. If your front wheel leans to the left, but is "true", reverse it and see if the deviance is the same in the other direction. If not, replace your fork as it has likely collapsed one side of the crown or one blade has more rake than the other. For suspended forks, the center-stay may have been warped. These are extraordinarily unlikely, as well as a final reason, being that the fork was poorly-assembled to begin with. Do not discount this before checking to see that the axle itself isn't bent (always replace an axle with a "black-steel" or Chro-Moly axle if ever, the minimal extra cost is far more worth it's weight in gold). If you are expecting perfect true and you are riding a Huffy/Murray/Free-Spirit, or such, you don';t need a truing stand, you need a quality bicycle in the first place, if not for your own safety. Again, I never needed a stand because the frame itself made one inherently, but a good project in any case. I applaud the effort.
Yes I have built wheels on the frame, but have disk brakes, so obviously I can't use the brake callipers to true it. A stand would, for me, appeal because a dial gage could be added rather than sticking bits of tape or what ever to the frame. My eyes just don't work well enough any more. Off the point a bit, can anyone tell me why $200 dishing gauges sell, they're just 5 welded parts and a centre bolt?
I see your point, but one of the benefits is that perfect true is not entirely necessary. However, if you are like me, you want them perfect anyway.<br/><br/>Try a <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.performancebike.com/shop/profile.cfm?SKU=3760&subcategory_ID=4221">Park Tools WAG-3</a> for a cheaper solution. The idea of &quot;dish&quot; is just to make sure the rim is centered on the axle, so this should do you well. I haven't seen a $200 one, but I'm sure you are paying for a name or excess features with that one.<br/><br/>The <a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.bikepartsplace.com/products/wheel-alignmentdishing-gauge/">Park Tools WAG-4</a> is twice the price, but allows you to dish the wheel on the frame.<br/>
Excellent point, and diplomatically made. I was considering dropping some $$ on truing before I read your post! Now I'll just do it myself. wicked.
Ok I am a sort of dumb ass in this respect - mostly. But I can see your point... really you only need to "gap" between the rim and the frame and there you have it. Dubble butt.... I can also see a truing stand as a neat thing by and of it's self, if one already has a fully functioning bike and or one needs to build an extra wheel or one has to periodically build a number of wheels for a number of different people - who may or may not have their bikes around the place. Plus - with me being a fat bastard, when it comes down to it, when I have to start spoking up my OWN wheels from scratch, for a special upcoming project, I'd rather be assembling my own wheels, on a NICE clean, well lit bench (kitchen table), with a meal, a cup of tea, the wireless (plus pencil, paper and calculator)... some time between dinner and going to bed, rather than wrestling on the floor with / without a bike, and odd shaped parts . I feel it's valid to say that YOU do not and have never needed a truing stand, but I feel that it's one of those areas - that is' not right or wrong, it's more down to personal choice or ones own needs.
I use 5 minute epoxy to glue a 1/4 nut to the fork or frame and then use a bolt as the indicator. It works really well for my purposes. I'm usually just fixing my kids bikes after their crashes (and mine too) so I'm no purist. When I'm done I just knock the nut off. I might do an instructable when all our snow finally melts.
I agree with Prometheus there that the bike frame can be a perfectly good truing stand - though there are pros and cons - and I actually have an idea similar to yours that I'm formulating an instructable on. Haven't been able to get to the hardware store to get the stuff for it yet though.
This is really excellent. I was just starting to get frustrated with the low precision of my Performance stand. I'm excited about modding it now!
Very cool! I just bought this truing stand and I know now what you are talking about. I don't know why Spin Doctor didn't start with a threaded indicators in the first place. Thank you for the how to!!
How about doing an "ible" on how to true a wheel?
I am thinking about it. A simple yet complex task, so I'm mulling both how to explain it and also how to communicate it with graphics. If I think I can do a good job I will.
For mine I just took an old front fork and welded it to a piece of angle iron and clamp it to the bench and then use two dial indicators on mag bases on either side of the wheel.
Sounds cool. Got an instructable for it?
No, it was just something I threw together one time when I needed to true a wheel.
When I was a boy, I spent all day in bicycle, and to align the wheels (truing, did it occasionally) used only the rear bracket of the bicycle. Never I had need of a special device. Nevertheless, good job!
i like it! i used to be a pro wrencher in moab, utah, and obviously we had all the best toys, so if a wheel truing stand doesn't cost $300 and also make you coffee, i tend not to consider it a "real" one. my finances being what they are now, i just true by feel and eyeball on the frame. of course there's nothing inherently wrong with this, but it is extremely time consuming: it now never gets done until it's really bad. :( Maybe now i'll make your "real" one. thanks again, it couldn't get much easier unless you just come over to my house and do the mod for me!
this is exactly what i've been thinking of doing, but i just had no clue how. Thanks for the great instructable. i've kept the truing stand under a bunch of crap for a year since it was so worthless, but i suppose i'll have to dig it up this weekend.

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