Build a simple Marx Generator

Step 6 The construction of the marx generator.

Depending how you want your marx generator, I will tell you how I did mine...

I first hot glue the capacitors on the base.
Then I soldered the 1M resistors on the capacitors using my handy helper's hands, and cutting off the excess resistor's leads. But I did not cut the capacitor's lead down, you will see why on the next step...
Then I soldered the 4.7M resistors in.
And one more thing, make sure you have good solder joints, and make sure they are no pointy ends on the marx generator, except the capacitor's leads and the HV output of the marx generator. Otherwise having pointy ends all over the marx generator will cause corona discharge, and that will decrease the performance of the marx generator.

Comments

[nathanielg]

(im actually fairly smart in electronics i just have no other way to really say this) i have shiny solder and when i melt it it is stilly shiny but when it cools it is dingy and looks like crap can anyone tell my why?

[looking4ideas]

That is most likely because you are using a lead free solder.

( i know this is an old post )

[timishier]

I guess that would be because of the oxidation of the solder( lead / tin) when it cools down it creates a little layer of oxidation, in theory you could prevent this by spraying something airtight over it.

[The Lightning Stalker]

Wood isn't great to use as a base material. It will absorb moisture and the marx generator may not work on a humid day. Acrylic plastic (Plexiglas) is readily available and works well but cracks easily when holes are drilled. Sometimes you can melt the holes by putting a nail in the flame on a stove and heating it up and using that to pierce the plastic. It gets hot so hold it with pliers. If you can find Lexan (polycarbonate) it's the best to use because it won't crack when holes are drilled. Acrylic is cheap and everywhere though so I just use that.

[Eriswerks]

If acrylic is cracking when you drill it, try using a masonry bit instead of a regular drill bit. It seems to heat up the acrylic as it goes, so that it half-drills half-melts its way through. Also, I'm betting you know this but there are different grades of acrylic, some less susceptible to cracking than others. Spending a little more on better acrylic could solve a cracking problem.

[dilligaf9791]

or take a junk bit and make the cutting surfaces parallel with the axis of the shaft. same idea as a masonry bit..the flatness scrapes away the acrylic instead of trying to slice and pull into it. and it's cheaper too.

[Plasmana]

Wow! Thank you for telling me that! I did not even think of acrylic! I will use that next time...

[kruser495]

another amazing and well done ible from you! 5 stars!

[Plasmana]

Thank you!

[The Lightning Stalker]

You're welcome. Acrylic works great for HV except where things get hot. The best stuff for insulating HV is regular RTV silicone like you get in the auto parts section.

[kruser495]

he said thank you to me not you.

[Wargasm]

LOL. I'm pretty sure he thanked you both.

[Plasmana]

Okay, thanks for your advice! :D

[The Lightning Stalker]

Oh, btw, hot glue melts when you solder so it's good to just bend the leads a little so they don't fall out.

[Plasmana]

Yeah, I had already learnt that lesson...