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Step 3Assemble the parts
Attach the sides to the 2x4s that will become the ends. I used 3" #10 screws because they were handy, but 2" screws are probably long enough.
Draw a pencil mark on each side at the origin of the parabolic curve.
Draw a line across the center of the backing (the 18" x 4ft sheet of 5/16" plywood) dividing it into two halves (each 18" x 2ft).
Line up the backing with the sides and put a small screw (I used 3/4" #6 screws) through the center line on the back and into each side at the origin marks you made.
Every 6" or so, put another screw through the backing into each side until you have attached the backing to the sides along the entire length of the sides (bend the backing to match the shape of the sides as you go).
Now glue your mylar or tin foil to the inside surface of the backing. Spray adhesive works well. Try to smooth out the surface as much as possible. Any little wrinkles will reduce the efficiency of the cooker. You can see that I wasn't that careful myself.
Draw a pencil mark on each side at the origin of the parabolic curve.
Draw a line across the center of the backing (the 18" x 4ft sheet of 5/16" plywood) dividing it into two halves (each 18" x 2ft).
Line up the backing with the sides and put a small screw (I used 3/4" #6 screws) through the center line on the back and into each side at the origin marks you made.
Every 6" or so, put another screw through the backing into each side until you have attached the backing to the sides along the entire length of the sides (bend the backing to match the shape of the sides as you go).
Now glue your mylar or tin foil to the inside surface of the backing. Spray adhesive works well. Try to smooth out the surface as much as possible. Any little wrinkles will reduce the efficiency of the cooker. You can see that I wasn't that careful myself.
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