Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 4Build the Main Panel
It is important to construct a layout for the meter that works. A sketch will help. Layout the switches, meters, and outlets. After a good spacing is achieved use a square to draw lines. The horizontal lines were based on what looked like good spacing. The first vertical line was at 6", the half way point. The other two were 3 1/8" away on either side, enough to accommodate the meters.
If possible drill the holes starting on the front, this helps avoid tear outs. If you are drilling from the back have the workpiece on a solid, flat surface that give even support.
Drilling the Holes:
1. Meters
The meter I used required a 7/8" hole. This is slightly undersized, but only by a very small amount so I sanded to make up the difference. Once I had the hole through I glued and screwed a piece on the back side covering the holes. The panel I used was 1/2" thick so I use a 1/2" piece to ensure the holes were deep enough to accommodate the meters. I then re-drilled the 7/8" holes so they went all the way through.
2. Outlet, Lamp Socket, and Binding Posts
The outlet is in fact a connector used to repair the female end of an electrical cord. It mounted in a 1 3/8" hole. The lamp socket was the same size. I used my layout lines to drill the holes. Once I fitted the fixtures I backed them out and use a high strength epoxy all the way around and pressed them back into place.
The binding posts were quite simple. I drilled a hole to accommodate the shaft of the bolt. When I required a little more length I drilled counter sinks with a forstner bit.
3: Switches
This was the most difficult part. Toggle switches are not often designed to be mounted in thick materials. Thus I had to drill counter sinks with my 1 3/8" forstner bit. The holes also required a small amount of hand chiseling.
Drilling Tips: To get flat bottomed holes use a forstner bit. The point can be placed directly on the layout mark. Start with the biggest hole, the counter sink and then switch to the smaller bit you are going to use to drill all the way through. This way you have a center guide point for both holes.
Forstner bits are recommended for use only with a drill press because they are designed to only be used at 90 degrees and not on an angle. However, I have used them with a hand drill working on a solid surface, with proper leverage, and a good deal of caution.
If possible drill the holes starting on the front, this helps avoid tear outs. If you are drilling from the back have the workpiece on a solid, flat surface that give even support.
Drilling the Holes:
1. Meters
The meter I used required a 7/8" hole. This is slightly undersized, but only by a very small amount so I sanded to make up the difference. Once I had the hole through I glued and screwed a piece on the back side covering the holes. The panel I used was 1/2" thick so I use a 1/2" piece to ensure the holes were deep enough to accommodate the meters. I then re-drilled the 7/8" holes so they went all the way through.
2. Outlet, Lamp Socket, and Binding Posts
The outlet is in fact a connector used to repair the female end of an electrical cord. It mounted in a 1 3/8" hole. The lamp socket was the same size. I used my layout lines to drill the holes. Once I fitted the fixtures I backed them out and use a high strength epoxy all the way around and pressed them back into place.
The binding posts were quite simple. I drilled a hole to accommodate the shaft of the bolt. When I required a little more length I drilled counter sinks with a forstner bit.
3: Switches
This was the most difficult part. Toggle switches are not often designed to be mounted in thick materials. Thus I had to drill counter sinks with my 1 3/8" forstner bit. The holes also required a small amount of hand chiseling.
Drilling Tips: To get flat bottomed holes use a forstner bit. The point can be placed directly on the layout mark. Start with the biggest hole, the counter sink and then switch to the smaller bit you are going to use to drill all the way through. This way you have a center guide point for both holes.
Forstner bits are recommended for use only with a drill press because they are designed to only be used at 90 degrees and not on an angle. However, I have used them with a hand drill working on a solid surface, with proper leverage, and a good deal of caution.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
 |
Add Comment
|
