Once the coating is cured assembly can begin. Epoxy the acrylic tube on the lid with the big hole right in the center.
Use the four #4 flat head screws (brass ones in my case) to attach the pinhole mounting plate. Use the two #4 washers to lift the shutter up above the plate and give the felt some breathing room. Fasten it with a #4 round head screw, tightening it so that it holds itself down firmly enough that it doesn't move without being pushed.
Use another #4 screw and washer to put the film number cover in place. I inserted a small piece of acrylic into the hole but without a laser cutter making that piece might be difficult. It isn't something that is required, just a nice touch I added. You can see it in Picture 5.
Once things were in place and I started testing out the film movement, I noticed that the spools would fall off the holder after a few turns so I had to add some little tabs that swing in and out to keep them in place. You can see them in Picture 6.
Insert the knob shafts with retaining ring and washer and tighten the knobs on the surface of the camera. Load up the two test spools and test paper and see how the film advance feels. If it is tight try putting some smooth tape on the wood edges so that it has less friction.
I made a small plate for on the front of the camera so that I know what aperture the pinhole is and the numbers that I need to wind the film to for each shot. I glued it on with epoxy.
The lid and box are fastened together with a pair of 10-24 machine screws converted into thumbscrews by tightening them into a wing nut.