Step 8: Assembly

Once the coating is cured assembly can begin.  Epoxy the acrylic tube on the lid with the big hole right in the center. 

Use the four #4 flat head screws (brass ones in my case) to attach the pinhole mounting plate.  Use the two #4 washers to lift the shutter up above the plate and give the felt some breathing room.  Fasten it with a #4 round head screw, tightening it so that it holds itself down firmly enough that it doesn't move without being pushed.

Use another #4 screw and washer to put the film number cover in place.  I inserted a small piece of acrylic into the hole but without a laser cutter making that piece might be difficult.  It isn't something that is required, just a nice touch I added.  You can see it in Picture 5.

Once things were in place and I started testing out the film movement, I noticed that the spools would fall off the holder after a few turns so I had to add some little tabs that swing in and out to keep them in place.  You can see them in Picture 6.

Insert the knob shafts with retaining ring and washer and tighten the knobs on the surface of the camera.  Load up the two test spools and test paper and see how the film advance feels.  If it is tight try putting some smooth tape on the wood edges so that it has less friction.

I made a small plate for on the front of the camera so that I know what aperture the pinhole is and the numbers that I need to wind the film to for each shot.  I glued it on with epoxy.

The lid and box are fastened together with a pair of 10-24 machine screws converted into thumbscrews by tightening them into a wing nut.
I'm having a hard time printing out the exact ratio for the wood box portion. Do you have the measurements for the box frame?
Can you be more specific? The overall dimensions are in the images on Step 2, you can also make all the measurements you want from the DWG file supplied on the same step, using AutoCAD or a free DWG viewer like http://usa.autodesk.com/adsk/servlet/pc/index?id=6703438&amp;siteID=123112. <br><br>Hope this helps.
so very nifty! simple (as it were) and elegant!
wow man roll another fattie! <br>seriously <br>very cool
It appears that the acrylic added some reflections to the image that may or may not be wanted. Would it be possible to replace the cylinder with a geared disc, in line with the film edges? Also, the full surface contact between the film and the acrylic will lead to scratches. <br> <br>If the cutting is done with anything but a laser, the precision involved in this project would require a good deal of sanding for alignments.
You are right about the reflections, and I'm not positive about what you are saying about a geared disc. I have since made some changes which I will add to the Instructable once I have confirmed them to actually be better. I am no longer using an acrylic tube not because of scratches or reflections, but due to the immense friction it created making it difficult to advance the film. <br> <br>Also, finger joints aren't exactly necessary, the camera could be built with the wood edges glued simply. My first pinhole was like that and it worked fine.
Totally awesome project! Although I am fairly certain digital photography has already taken over ;) <br>
I'm fairly certain I like film better ;)
Beautiful work! <br> I LOVE all you folks who share about making and using Pinhole cameras. <br> <br>I personally believe they are an underutilized tool in education, useful across fields of art, science, engineering, reasoning, and naturally fascinating for children - to engage them across all these areas, getting their hands on stuff, even in poorest material environs. I have it on my long-term list to assemble such camera-making info + natural photo-reactive media for eco-friendly picture-making-recording - albumen, citric acid, tin (eco?) photo reactive. <br> <br>Greg
Thanks, I agree, people need to be taught about pinhole cameras because of the educational value. Its a great way to study optics and light.
What is a anamorphic images!?
An anamorphic image is any image which is optically distorted. In this case, the distortions are caused by the film being wrapped in a cylinder instead of laid flat like normal.
Design and execution is absolutely brilliant. But I can't help thinking that if you'd put a bit more into the external finish, you'd have a camera that looked like a fine instrument. A few coats of sanding sealer and some time with sandpaper before you put on the varnish would have really paid off.
Very nice work! Love both the camera and the shown result!
Instead of having the acrylic cylinder fixed in place, you could have it so that it rotates along with the film when you advance it. Ok, it's a lot of fiddle to do, but it should overcome the friction problem.
You're right, but the mechanics of that kind of solution would be difficult, especially since at one end the pinhole cannot be obstructed in any way.
nice one.love the wonkee pics. plastic tube a supprise. could you tell me a little more about the lazer cutter?
The laser cutter I used is a Trotec Speedy 300, and is about 45 watts. Cuts this material at 100 power 0.9 speed and 6 passes, -0.05&quot; Z-offset per pass. With another machine experimentation will be required but many passes and Z-offset on each pass helps prevent the wood from heating up too much and charring.
Cool,Cool,Cool,Cool,Cool, project! Excellent instructable!
Glad you liked it!
Magnific work, Matt.
As always, thank you!

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