Can't afford a Nissan Leaf? No Problem!
Build a cheap electric car yourself by removing the the car engine, replacing it with a forklift motor, and adding batteries.
I have plenty of videos about this project at:
http://www.youtube.com/user/BenjaminNelson
and 300MPG.org
The primary "build blog" for this project is at:
http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/ben-nelsons-electro-metro-build-thread-848.html
but watch out! That is a good read for when you have WAY too much time on your hands.
For a good intro to basic electric car construction, stick with this Instructable.
For more in-depth construction information, check out the instructional Video DVD available at 300MPG.org
If you are a teacher, and would like to start a class or extra-curricular at your school, I would like to GIVE you a copy! (Click this link for details.)
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I was looking for something lightweight, with no power anything.
Heavier cars need more energy to push down the road, thus limiting your range on batteries.
Things like power steering and power brakes run off the engine, which is going to be removed anyways, rendering them useless. Power windows and locks add weight and complexity to the vehicle.
I ended up finding a Geo Metro for sale, for $500. The engine ran fine, and the body wasn't too bad, but I couldn't drive it home because the clutch was messed up. Oh well, this conversion isn't going to use a clutch anyways!
Make sure the car doesn't have anything major wrong with it (other than maybe a blown engine!) You want to do a Conversion, not a Restoration!














































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My background is mechanical engineering (operating steam plants in the Navy) I do have a question though. My relatively average knowledge of electronics would lead me to think that as long as the motors are identical and the current to them is regulated properly that you could use 4 smaller motors (one at each wheel) instead of one big one to propel the vehicle. If run in parallel the motors should all turn at the same speed (I am sure a computer could further regulate the current to keep the wheels within a certain range of each other)
I ask this because the price of motors that are 25+ hp are a little high for the average person to purchase for their first EV project this (as BigTurd suggested) would also cut the need for a full sized transmission.
Second issue is synchronizing the two motors so they spin exactly the same speed (unless turning). If one spins faster (or slower) than the other, the car will pull to one side. Not fun. Dealing with tracking issues when turning due to a different turning radius on the wheels would be even harder. Better to drive a differential and let it do the work.
In a brand-new, custom-built vehicle, it would be easy to design for. In fact, with the motors out of the way, and no traditional transmission, it would give you great design flexibility. Modern car manufacturers talk about that sort of thing all the time. But for a simple conversion of an existing car, just replacing the engine with an electric motor and adding batteries is far more straight-forward than designing/manufacturing/fabricating everything for multiple motors and driven wheels.
I think that a four-wheel-drive hub-motor vehicle would be a great project to see. It might start off best as an "off-road-only" vehicle, something like a dune-buggy, ATV or something similar.
The "Tropica" electric car, designed by Bob Beaumont, also the inventor of the Citicar, was rear-wheel drive with TWO electric motors. Each motor was mounted on the swing-arm of the wheel, along with a belt and pulley to get the gear ratio right from the motor to the wheel. Also, each of the two motors had its own controller.
As for the cost of motors. There are plenty of good ones that can be bought brand new, specifically for EV use for $1000-$3000. That was a little expensive for my project, which only cost about $1300 total. My motor was from an electric forklift. I bought it for $50, cleaned it up, and installed it in my car. It works great.
For more information on repurposing forklift motors to power electric cars, please visit this link.
If you really want speed in an EV, check out the Tesla Roadster, White Zombie, or Killacycle.
I know several people with electric boats, and might be consulting this summer on converting our state university's sailing team flagship to electric drive.
I made a blog entry on electric boats a while back you might want to check out. http://300mpg.org/electric-boats/
Since you are in Pittsburg, you might also want to check out the Mother Earth News Fair at Seven Springs in September. There are presentations on all sorts of great info, including several I will be giving on electric vehicles. http://www.motherearthnews.com/fair/SevenSprings.aspx#axzz2OvmtGPKe
Heated coat!
The heated coat gives me instant warmth, and puts the heat where I want it - on me!
If there was a way to leave the clutch you could shift gears while running. The electric motor was designed for slow heavy use not hwy speeds?
Shifting without a clutch really isn't a problem. It's a very different thing having an electric motor that comes to a complete stop when you do (rather than an engine that has to idle) The electric motor has been working great.
Choosing electric motors working voltage is important and the batteries important.
If you have a car for coversion and you have money everything is ok.
But how to do ??? I am searching on internet.Articles , videos , there are lots of websites for it.
I have a skoda favorit 1300cc engine car.Converting it to electric can be better than using with lpg....
I found some seller that explains how to do it ? And which parts We'll use.
I was interseted in one of them.Explains good.... And cool )
It was Electric Conversion
http://ozantavsan.evsecrets.hop.clickbank.net
You need a larger motor that can handle the continuous amperage required to ride the tractor around and mow the lawn.
My friend converted a gas riding lawn mower to an electric one. You can read about it at:
http://ecorenovator.org/forum/lawn-garden/161-ecorider-riding-lawn-mower-electric-conversion.html
i am an electrical engineering student from pakistan
i wanted to do this as my final year project.
could u tell me how much HP your motor was?
i meen whats your motor power in HP or kW?
regards
bilal tahir.
btahir90@yahoo.com
Cruising, it typically takes 100 amps, but I can pull up to 500 amps (accelerating, uphill) briefly.
72vx500 amps is 36kW or about 48 horsepower.
72V x 100 amps is 7.2kW, or just under 10HP.
People have built drill-powered bicycles too. Just make sure to do the hard work of pedaling to get getting, then use the drill for cruising speed.
oh, and my first ible was a drill powered bicycle.
i have also done the same with a razor scooter.
they were both friction drive.
also is there any other way to generate electricity to maybe extend the range?
Adding alternators to each wheel wouldn't help. It would be crazy trying to do fabrication for the space and gearing needed for that to work. Even then, the alternators could only be active when you WANT to slow down! (As the alternator creates resistance on the spinning motor to create electricity.)
You COULD add solar panels to a car, but unless it is a very slow speed, boxy vehicle, with a large flat roof, it won't help much, but will add to your expense. (I do know of golf carts and electric pontoon boats with flat roofs, covered with PV panels.)
The simplest way to extend range (other than having more or better batteries) is with a range-extending generator. That's the route that I took when I converted this electric car into a Range-Extended Electric Car (sort of like a Chevy Volt) with a propane generator.
I made an entire Instructables on that, which you can see at: http://www.instructables.com/id/DIY-Plug-In-Hybrid-Car/
I was thinking that if you park somewhere that gets sun all day while your at work, you could use them to get some extra mileage out of the batteries while the vehicle is parked
yeah, I guess, I did have an idea over the weekend tho, why not use the fuel tank to house extra batteries? that would increase range and save some space :D
Power steering runs off of engine power. If you remove the engine, you need to somehow provide power to the power-steering pump. That could be an additional electric motor or a pulley off the tail-shaft of the drive motor.
Some cars also have both a manual steering rack and a power steering rack, and you could swap it out, but that sure sounds like a lot of work.
My Geo Metro retains its original manual steering. It drives and steers great.
It's a simple thing threaded onto a tee on the vacuum bottle with three terminals on it. The switch has a common, normally open, and normally closed terminals. I ran 12V power from the circuit that switches on, when I power up the car, to the pressure/vaccum switch. If it senses there isn't enough vacuum, the circuit is completed, and the pump turns on, pulling air out of the white aluminum vacuum bottle. When there is enough vacuum, the switch breaks the circuit, turning the pump back off. The pump runs for a few seconds right when I turn the car on, and briefly again about every third time I press the brakes.
I used an Airtrol F-4200-X30 switch, but anything similar should work fine.
I also have a simple one-way valve on the hose (cheap part from the auto store) to keep air from leaking back in, once it's been pumped out.
This is John. I am a software professional. but i want to do something different from regular life. I read your artical. it is wounderful. I want to run my Matiz Car using Electricity. Can You help me to achieve this?
Kindly provide details about Motors and other items that are required to make the Daweoo Matiz Car as a Electric Car.
Is it required to charge the battery separately or is it automatically charged when we run the car?