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Step 8: Other

Currently, the car is insured and registered, although the DMV is still requiring that I drag it in and PROVE that there is no engine in the car before they give me the emissions tesing exemption.

This car can go for 20 miles on a charge, and has a top speed of 45 MPH, the speed limit right outside my house. In town is all 25 mph anyways. My typical ride is 10 miles for going to work, grocery store, post office, etc, and back home.

If I doubled up the battery pack, I should be able to go 30 to 40 miles on a charge.

This project has cost me about $1200 total, including buying the car in the first place. If I would have done the machining myself, I would have only spent around $800 for everything. This car charges at my house through a renewable energy program. All electricity comes from wind, bio-gas, and other renewable energy sources.

I kept the back seat and can carry four people total.

The original driver and passenger airbags are completely intact and functional.

I mostly drive this car in third gear. Turn the car on - put it in third - drive. It's really that easy. There's no engine to kill, so you don't have to push in the clutch before coming to a stop. The motor has so much torque that I can pull away from a dead stop in fourth gear.

I still need to come up with a heater. (EDIT: Please see below) I think I will wear an extra thick coat and gloves for winter driving and have an electric defroster on the dashboard to keep it from frosting. The heat issue has been on my mind since the start of this project. The inefficiency of a gasoline engine is a blessing in a cold Wisconsin winter.

I did gloss over a few steps of this project.
I skipped telling you how many times I took apart, and put back together, the electric motor. How many times I lugged it back and forth to the machinist's. A friend and I were up til 2 in the morning one night fixing the control arm mount! Or how I had to literally shorten the motor because it was too long to fit in the car! But those things are for another story at another time!

I made sure to have an interlock, so I can't accidently drive away while plugged in. Make sure to have a nice big fuse inline of your main battery pack.

All the little challenges of a conversion like this are part of what makes it fun and interesting. In my case, I did a fair bit of experimenting of the best way to run the power brakes.




Winter Heat:
Sure, gasoline engines aren't efficient, but all that waste heat sure is nice in the winter. Since this car no longer has the original engine, it doesn't have the original heat either. The blower motor is still there and works fine for defogging the windshield.
Some EV converters remove the original heater core and replace it with a ceramic heating element that runs on their pack voltage. That sounded like a lot of work, and I was already sick of tearing apart the dashboard.

I already had a household (120V AC) electric oil-filled radiator. I just put that behind the passenger seat, and run an extension cord out the window to a timer.
The heat comes on automatically in the morning and heats up the inside of the entire car before I get in it.
The mass of the oil in the radiator stays hot for about 10 minutes or so after I leave. Most of my trips aren't any longer than that anyways.

I like that with this heat system in that:
1) I didn't have to buy a darn thing
2) The entire interior of the car is already warm - seats, steering wheel, everything!
3) This also helps keep the batteries warm.
4) All the electric power comes from the wall, instead of the batteries

The only down side is that if I am parked all day somewhere that I can't plug in, I don't have that same heat for the ride home. On the other hand, most of my trips are pretty short, so it's not the end of the world.

This heat system consumes about 5 cents worth of electricity per use.

BRAKES:
One of the reasons why I chose this car to convert was that it has manual windows, manual locks, manual transmission, non-powered steering,pretty much manual everything - except the brakes. The first time I drove the car as an electric conversion, I found the brakes to be a little hard. (You CAN stop the car WITHOUT power brakes, you just have to push really hard!) It was just a low-speed test drive, but it was pretty obvious that I had to work on the brake system. Power brakes work on vacuum created by the engine. Without an engine to make the vacuum, the brakes just don't work the way they should. 
Some people say to find a different, manual, master brake cylinder and install that, or even just to punch a hole in a certain spot in the cylinder to convert it to manual. Neither of these sounded like great options. Really, I just needed an electric way to make a vacuum.
So, to start out with, I played around with an aquarium air pump, just to learn how the vacuum brake system works. After that, I starting looking around for a 12v air pump with a connection on the "In" end, so that it could be used as a vacuum pump. A friend of mine dug one up, along with an aluminum bottle that had a threaded connector already on it.
I connected the air pump to 12V+ power through a vacuum switch. The vacuum switch measures vacuum in the bottle - if there isn't enough vacuum, the switch turns on the pump.

Now the car has power brakes, just like it did originally, only it's driven by a tiny electric motor in a little pump, instead of by a gasoline engine. Compare this to newer versions of the Prius, where the air conditioning is driven by an electric motor. That way, you can have AC without the engine running!
<p>Actually we don't have to buy new battery: <a href="http://batteryrecover.com" rel="nofollow">http://batteryrecover.com</a></p><p>Thank you bennelson ! :)</p>
Can I use 3 phase ac motor without amp regulator just with ac-dc inverter and frequency inverter?
Does the gas engine need to run?
Also what was the total cost
<p>Electric cars are gaining more exposure in the mainstream market of various states due to the proven environmentally-friendly and costs-saving features that the whole idea has got to offer. If you are able to build one of your own in your own backyard, it would only mean more savings for you!</p>
<p>Could you please tell us the total kWh of the 6 batteries you used? Thanks!</p>
<p>If I wanted to build a sports car, would I need to make my own custom motors or buy different ones? Also, in most electric cars, does the motor transfer motion through a transmission... I thought they were connected directly to the wheel and the voltage was controlled to change speed.</p>
<p>and is there any way to make the battery last longer? Would a battery salvaged from a prius for example give longer runs. I know to get a car to run as long as a tesla would be very expensive but maybe around 100 miles per charge would work with a few solar panels on top to make that even more?</p>
<p>Would a couple of these forklift motors be enough to make a hybrid drive like on a locomotive? I'm fabricating most of the truck, I just don't know much about electric engines. I also have access to a 40&quot; 3 phase but it weighs like 1300 pounds. It's for a rather large vehicle. It'll have two large generators, so I'm not too worried about batteries. I can control acceleration with the rpm of the generators.</p>
Through my scrolling I haven't been able to discover the voltage of the motor you rebuilt.
I'm sorry I just saw how much it cost :) you're amazing!!! :)
Hi :) how much did your conversion cost in total?
<p>This is great! I have a little 1995 Ford Aspire, automatic transmission but manual everything else, with medium mileage (80,000). The plan was to run the little bugger into the ground while saving up for a Leaf...but converting it in advance of that (and selling the engine!) sounds much more appealing. Does this process work with an automatic transmission? And 90s Aspires are basically Geos, right?</p>
<p>Are these the regular lead acid batteries we have in cars to start the engine, lights etc?</p>
<p>Hello</p><p>I want my production Electric Car</p><p>But I do not know where is the best engine and the best battery</p><p>Where To Buy</p><p>Please tell me</p>
why try and build some type of altenator that way while u drive it can charge batteries and drive unlimited
<p>because you would be breaking the first two laws of thermodynamics which make doing that impossible</p>
It is not impossible.
<p>It's possible to build, but it wouldn't work so why bother?</p>
<p>a kers system would be excellent on a setup like this, get back some of that power wasted stopping after all that's supposed to be the general purpose of electric vehicles Is efficiency</p>
<p>Who is your insurance provider? I have spoke with 3 so far and they all wont insure a car with a BOM.</p>
<p>You are my hero ! ;-D<br>I will build my own electric car :-D</p>
<p>This project is so advanced but yet does not look that complicated after all. However, I think you would still require a tyre and rim insurance after being done with the conversion job. This is just to help safeguard yourself against any possible unfortunate events that might follow you in your DIY masterpiece.</p>
<p>but does'nt the motor overheat</p>
<p>but does'nt the motor overheat</p>
<p>but does'nt the motor overheat</p>
Awesome sauce!
I thought that transmissions were only for gasoline cars. Why did you have to put one on an electric car's motor?
<p>Most motorized things require some form of a tranmission, electric, diesel, propane, and gasoline engines all typically do dependin on application. They do so for two reasons, one in earlier rwd cars the crankshaft of the engien couldn't directly be hooked up to the wheels, so a gearbox drive shaft, and rear differencial are needed, to change the direction of the power output. Secondly and more importantly, without a transmission of some form the engine would always be engaged to the wheels, meaning the second you start it up, even while idling it will be moving, constantly moving, and with such a setup the brakes would be fighting the motor all the time making for horrible stopping power and great potential of either a damaged motor or failed brake system, the clutch/torque converter allows them to disengage from eachother, allowing you to stop.</p>
<p>How do you change gears without a clutch?</p>
<p>It's surprisingly easy. Just rev the motor up to the right speed, and push it into gear. It took about a day to get used to for me.</p>
<p>That's how most truck drivers do it...</p>
<p>Automotive transmissions aren't made the same way truck transmissions are. Truckers don't shift like that right off the get go, either. Takes some time of learning the truck and how it shifts by shifting properly. I'll be doing this conversion to a 2009 Base model standard jeep compass, and I'll for sure be keeping the clutch. I guess It'll be easier to maybe take out the clutch? But for longevity, keeping the clutch is the smartest way to do it. <u>In my own opinion!!!</u></p><p>More fun that way as well.</p>
<p>MPaulHolmes, does changing the gears in this way not damage the gears? I'm asking, not to be critical, but because I am hoping to build my own EV. I'm wondering whether I need to try to keep the clutch. It seems like most people don't use a clutch, but to me, that sounds like it would damage the transmission pretty quickly.</p>
<p>Mate that was awesome well done something to be proud of :-)</p><p>One thing is I was wondering to save battery power would there be an advantage installing a light flywheel to install the clutch so you can change gears?</p><p>I know electric motorcycles benefit greatly if they have a manual gearbox.</p><p>It requires a lot less power to take off and maybe a smaller motor could be used.</p><p>It would not be that hard to do.</p><p>Regards Rik</p><p>Home Mechanics</p>
<p>This is a great project, thumbs up..I have 2 points to raise: did u do the math how much $ u will save till batteries ascend to God ? the other thing is what about all those bloody sensors hooked all around the notorious combustion engine ? how to keep them quiet from making the computer stop the car ?...oh.. on a 2nd thought, what can the computer do ? cut the fire from plugs? or shut the carbeurator ? they re kicked out of the car anyhow..still some sensors that bring signals to dash may need to modify.</p>
<p>For someone who claims to have a low level of knowledge about cars I salute your ability to soldier on in any case. I am a mechanic and looking at your project for the hints on how to go about the conversion. LOL</p>
Why did you put a trans. To the motor, i thought that transmissionswere only for gasoline cars, why?
Ever put a solar panel on electric car????
<p>hello</p><p>i wanted to now more about it </p><p>i like elec car wil you help me</p><p>greetings sam</p>
<p>Hi guys,</p><p>you are the pioneers of electric cars so I would like to invite you to join 80edays, the hardest EV endurance test driving around the world! </p><p>I would like to make a link exchange with this great website.</p><p>Kind regards</p><p>Rafael de Mestre</p><p><a href="http://www.80edays.com" rel="nofollow">www.80edays.com</a></p>
<p>Hi Ben! The ecomodder and 300mpg links aren't working.</p>
<p>They worked when I clicked them. Maybe try a different browser or check again later. You can always do a google search if you needed to.</p>
<p>the motor u used is a universal motor(ac/dc) or a PMDC motor??? nice work.</p>
<p>It's a series-wound DC motor, 10.5&quot; diameter, Nissan brand, originally out of a full-size electric forklift.</p>

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Bio: Ordinary guy with no special skills, just trying to change the world one backyard invention at a time. See more at: http://300mpg.org/ On ... More »
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