Step 2: Dimensions and background

Picture of Dimensions and background
Over all DImensions:

Tent Diameter: approx 15' ( 5 meters) across.
Tent Height: approx 10' (3 meters) in the centre, and 5'6" ( 1.6m) at the edges.

My Yurt Components (A reference guide for later) :

Wall Timbers: 8'(2400mm)long x 6mmx35mm Slats (see below) Quantity: 70ish

Wall Bolts: 1" or 1&1/2" long x 1/4(6mm) bolts Quantity: almost 300

Main Roof Supports: 8'(2400mm) x 45mmx35mm Beams Quantity: 8

Secondary Roof Supports: 8'(2400mm) x 45mmx16mm Beams Quantity: 8

All roof supports and wall slats are cut-down from 90x35 F8 or F12 pine framing timber - see below for details.

Roof 'HUB': Constructed from metal (see later steps)

Wall Canvas: 8oz canvas - preferably "proofed", but I used untreated and unbleached canvas and treated it myself (see details in later steps)

Roof Canvas: 12oz canvas - MUST be "proofed" (water proofed, and anti-mound treated) ...don't use 8oz or you'll regret it. If you can find a really strong and properly treated 10oz canvas(I couldn't), then that will probably do, but it might sag a little.

UNRELATED ASIDE: If I was going strictly "traditional" I wouldn't be using zinc plated bolts
(or any bolts), I'd be lashing saplings together not using machine-sawn timber, I'd be using
natural felt made from sheep and yak fur mixed and pressed with oils (linseed and boiled
animal fats) not water proofed and anti-mould treated canvas. I wouldn't have a tarpaulin on
the floor, it would be dirt, and there would be a rock-surrounded fire-place inside the tent
for warmth (and smoke). The door would always point south, the north inside wall would have
a religious idol/importance. The men and visitors would always sit/sleep on the west, the
women and children on the east, you would always stop for a meal when passing, you would
always ask 'How are you?' '..And your family?' '..And your flock is fat and well?' (and the
answer would always be yes even if it's not true) I'm not THAT anal about "traditional"
form nor am I a "historical" nazi.

slivie1 year ago

I wonder about making the lattice with 1/2" to 1" pvc pipe, drilled but instead being bolted, using long pop rivets. It might be expensive but it might also be pretty sturdy and still be lightweight.

Any thoughts on using cedar? I'm leaning this way for the natural rot and insect resistance... obviously more expensive but I figure it would be built to last, and worth it.
Shadwfax6 years ago
Have you ever heard of anyone ripping down plywood to make the laths? Might add a little to the cost, but seems like it could be more structurally sound. Probably not as stiff as pine, so might consider going a little thicker.
davidbuzz (author)  Shadwfax6 years ago
no. I haven't. I don't see the value, as I don't have sructural issues at the moment, so it's overkill as far as I'm concerned.... and the glue use in most plywoos is not waterproof or exterior rated, so it's not going to last well in wet conditions either.
ajn1426 years ago
I was wondering, could you construct the lattice out of some kind of metal banding instead? if so, what kind would you reccomed, i don't have much experience in building this kind of thing, although i find it very interesting
I suppose you could, but there wouldn't be any real advantage - it would be heavier, and more expensive, but structurally you wouldn't get that much of a boost - the lattice is pretty strong. I'd be concerned too, that I was making a giant lightning rod...
I was just thinking that metal might be a little more durable, I'm a boy scout and I'd bet that somebody in my troop would manage to break it a piece of it. As for lightning rod, that would depend on your surroundings, but it's a very valid point. Thanks for the advice.
I'm sure it would be more durable in regards to manhandling by troop members (ex-boyscout here). The structure of the skeleton is made to distribute a load - so if you press on any given point (simulating wind), the whole structure flexes into a more aerodynamic shape - I'm wondering if you used a more rigid framework, would you lose any of that? (I honestly don't know - but food for thought). And then of course, the added weight would make it more difficult to transport. I think it might be better to have a few extra spars for repair, and engineer it so you can easily remove a broken one. Another thought is weather on metal - if you used metal, you'd want something like aluminum - I'm thinking rust could be a problem. Aluminum also has an advantage of being lightweight, and easy to work with. I heard that some people have had success using bamboo as the framework for a ger. Definitely worth a google. Hey, if you work this out, definitely document it!