Instructables
Building a rustic wooden chair step by step with simple hand tools.Shown is how to take a Birch tree and make a strong, long lasting chair,with many ideas to finish it with,I will cover that here later.That is why just the frame of the chair right now no seat or seat back yet.
 
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Step 1: Wood and tools you need

Wood needed-  I used one tall, fairly straight, Birch tree about 25 feet of wood from 1-1/2 inches wide to 4-1/2 inches wide.You could use two or three small trees of any kind about the same width.
                          cut into
Ten- 14 inch long by 1 -1/2 inch  or so wide 
Two- 2 foot long by 2 to 3 inches or so wide
Two- 4 foot long by 3 to 4 inches or so wide
all widths and lengths are approximate
   
Tools needed-
Saw
 Drill ,battery power shown but a hand cranked Brace  will work
1 inch Forstner style drill bit- [any 1 inch drill bit will work but a Forstner works best]
1 inch Tenon Cutter- [ Veritus 1 inch Tenon Cutter is what I have]
Glue  - [the wood glue has less fumes but I find Original Gorilla Glue on damp wood holds best over time]
Sponge   -slightly damp if using Original Gorilla Glue
Sanding block  - my sanding block is made from a belt sander belt [package of 8 pieces] then cut a board so the  sanding belt fit around a 1/2 inch wide block of wood .
-
Optional
  20 screws ,3 inch long Wood Screws are best but any length, as long as, or longer than 2 inches should work.  [if you haven't tried the square head screws try them now they work great].
If you use screws you need a pilot hole drill bit [it keeps the wood from splitting] a counter sinking pilot hole drill bit is shown here [meaning when finished the screws head is countersunk or deep in the wood where you don't see it].
Drive bit [try the square headed driver bit it holds screws on the bit better and wont strip out the head as easy].












 

legamin8 months ago

when I was a wee bairn...(a while back)... We had similar chairs that were a little more delicate looking but had a twisted wire tensioning applied diagonally between the joints. They were made in the 1920's and still hadn't started creaking as of the 1970's so I'm thinking that was a good idea. But I think your diagonal cross bracing would give similar structure only without the actual tensioning.

bajablue3 years ago
I ADORE mortise and tenon furniture, and I especially love working with driftwood.

Great Ible... Thanks for sharing!!!

herwood_forest_alaska (author)  bajablue2 years ago
(removed by author or community request)
You're right... I did! ;-)