Step 2: To start, we must locate and mark the bottom of the hole in the trash can for the 6" stove pipe.
Step 4: The plastic lid is flexible enough to lay on the curved surface of the trash can. Using a Sharpie trace the outline.
Step 6: Using a pair of tin snips, cut a rough hole making sure to stay at least 1/2" away from the edge of the black line.
Step 8: Using the tin snips again, proceed to make thin cuts in the metal. We will be folding these tabs into the can.
Step 10: There are many ways to cut a hole in sheet metal but if you only have limited tools this method is more than acceptable and the hole looks "finished".
Step 11: Insert the 6" elbow into the hole. Place the section of stove pipe onto the elbow and mark it about 1" below the rim of the trash can.
Step 14: Using a cut-off wheel, start connecting the dots. Rotate the pipe around and reclamp until the cut is complete.
Step 21: A good view of the trim ring inverted and slid into position. My dog is super excited about this project.
Step 22: The 8" pipe should be cut a couple inches below the rim of the 6" pipe, this will leave room to install the second trim ring.
Step 23: Checking again for fit. Notice the 1/2" metal plate under the elbow, this keeps the fire chamber off the bottom of the can.
Step 24: Four pieces of threaded rod will secure the top of the chimney. Measure from the 6" pipe to the edges of the can and add 1".
Step 27: All 4 rods will touch the 6" chimney to secure it. Adjust the nuts and tighten on the inside and outside of the trash can.
Step 29: A piece of sheet metal will be used for the wood fuel to lay on. Measure the widest point of the stove pipe.
Step 31: This view shows the sheet metal slid into place. Once the sticks are installed, the fire chamber will only burn the tips as super heated air flows in from under the wood and a strong draft is created in the combustion chamber.
Step 33: Once the double walled chimney is full put the second trim ring on and pour the rest of the vermiculite around the combustion chamber.
Step 35: Ready for the first test burn. The great thing about a rocket stove is that it needs very little fuel to operate efficiently.
Step 36: Push the sticks all the way into the combustion chamber. Newspaper, leaves or dry grass can be used to lite the stove.
Step 37: At first there will be smoke. Once the stove heats up not only will the sticks burn but so will the smoke. Smoke is nothing more than unused energy.
Step 38: A view inside the combustion chamber. The stove is almost up to operating temperature, very little smoke can be seen.
Step 39: Complete combustion in under 5 minutes. No visible signs of smoke and an intense fire is roaring in the combustion chamber.
Time to build a couple quick accessories before we take the stove out for field trials.
Step 40: This is an old ash bucket shovel that I had in the garage.
Step 42: Next we will make an adjustable metal skirt which will aid in heating the water kettle.
These pieces will make an adjustable skirt that can wrap around just about any sized container.
The skirts force the hot air to stay close to the sides of the container and is another form of insulation.
Step 43: The stove is not in operation. These pics are to show the adjustable skirt on the water kettle.
Step 45: At the cabin and now installing the rocket stove pad, it's a very simple sandstone slab on bricks.
Step 46: Rocket stove set-up and ready. The stove is now at waist level, perfect for cooking or canning.
Step 51: Burgers and hotdogs on a broiler pan. This is needed to keep the grease from dripping into the trash can.
Step 52: When the burgers were almost done I placed them on a cast iron grate over the stove for flavor.
Step 54: Breakfast is served..... Thank You.
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Food Plot Survival