Designing and building your own subwoofer can be a rewarding experience. Not only will it save you money, you will also get better performance than prebuilt subwoofers, and you can make the subwoofer to what your needs are. Building a subwoofer may seem like a daunting task, but with this procedure, I will show you how easy and fun it can be. To build a subwoofer one of the skills that you need are woodworking skills. The woodworking entails building a box, bracing the inside, and staining or painting the box. Any electrical and acoustic knowledge is not required but it could be helpful. To fully construct a subwoofer it can take a couple of days to a week depending on how fancy you want to design the box and how long it takes you to cut the wood.

Step 1: Parts and Tools

Parts that are required:
Circular saw
A computer
Long wood clamps (length depends on what size you are going to build the box)
Pencil or pen (to mark measurements)

Items that are optional but are highly recommended:
Sandpaper (to smooth surfaces)
woodscrews (to ensure a good tight bond)
Drill (to screw in the woodscrews)
A large ruler (to measure wood)
A helping Hand (if you need to move heavy objects)
Access to a truck (to move boards of wood around)
Router (this is used to cut the circles that the subwoofer will be sitting it, while getting a router is optional it is very helpfull to have one to get dimensions right)

Items you need to buy:
Suboofer of your choice
Speaker wire Terminals
Speaker Wire

Optional Items you can buy:
Subwoofer box feet (optional)
Paint or stain or box carpet (optional)
Insulation (optional, what insulation does is help dampen the box, this can give clear and deep sounding bass)
Speaker grills

If you have a question feel free to ask and I will try to answer it. <br>Thanks!
buddy I already have one but I need to amplify the base and tuning sounds I need to add 2 more speakers and one bass speaker too can u help me out
<p>Beautiful!</p><p>The plexiglass really adds the charm.</p>
Can you pls tell me about the wiring required inside the subwoofer cause you just breezed over it.Thankyou.
So is there no need for any crossovers?
<p>No, because the electricity is just going to one component, unless you're building a speaker with a tweeter or mid range woofer.</p>
Which amplifier to use with 400w sub...and I want to power 2 subs.?
<p>i have yung sd 100 with dayton sda 270A 88 driver, i want to make small box with low response at least 25 fb, kindly advice</p>
Hi, thanks for the instructable! <br> <br>I'm planning on building a subwoofer capable of infrasound frequencies (I'm an artist newly interested in exploring the effects on the human body by such low freq.s as standing waves in specific environments) but unfortunately my knowledge of acoustics/subwoofers is currently pretty minimal... Do you know how I might best go about achieving this? <br> <br>I'd like to generate freq.s as low as 18hz, much lower if possible. So far my plan - based on another instructable - is to use a 21 inch woofer (Pyle-Pro PDW21250) with a 1000 watt amp and build the enclosure myself, around 106 x 106 x 30cm - or whatever is best for projecting the sound forwards. Do you think that would work? I'm also unsure about what frequency to tune the box to when working with such low frequencies. <br> <br>Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Using the Pyle-Pro PDW21250 could be challenging to get what you need, but its possible. First I would suggest making the box as big as you can. Modeling the Pyle subwoofer with your current box size it would get about 105db(at 18hz and at max power) tuned to 15hz. But that would be pushing the mechanical limits of the subwoofer itself and you will probably never be able to reach that. <br>Personally I would suggest a different subwoofer. When you want subsonic sounds you usually choose a speaker that has a high motor strength, low fs, and a high excursion limit. <br> <br>What type of output are you thinking you will need? If you need something above 100db I would suggest getting a different subwoofer. If you are going to be using the Pyle Pro I would suggest tuning it around 15hz, but watch out for mechanical limitations on the driver.
Thanks for your reply, this is a great help. In light of this I think I'll probably make the enclosure 1.2 to 1.5 metres square faced and 30/35 deep... Do you think it's essential I use a 21 inch driver? If you could recommend one or point me in the right direction I would be very grateful!!! I'm on quite a tight budget and the cheapest I've found is this (http://www.bluearan.co.uk/index.php?id=PAUSD211800EL&amp;browsemode=category) but it says its operating range is 30-200hz, which I presume means it's incapable of infrabass...
Have you ever dealt with car audio at all, particularly subwoofer boxes for car's etc. You did an awesome job on the home audio box with the foam trick making the sound larger then it is etc. If you have dealt with car sub boxes and have any tips secrets other people may not know you should download a Instructable on it, I'd be interested to see what you may come up with that myself & others haven't thought up etc. Great Instructable. Phil
Car audio is relatively the same as home audio. One of the first decisions to make in car audio is how much room you want to use in your car and what box will fit in that area. Next you need to decide how much power you can send to the subwoofer. If you are running a stock alternator and battery I would stay around or below 1000Watts RMS(Note: most amplifiers that you buy are rated at peak power, this really doesn't tell you much about what the amp will really send out since that rating is usually abused and overrated) With all of the previous information you go out looking for a subwoofer that you want, if you can afford it go with good name brands like FI audio, Mach 5, DC sounds, TC sounds, RE audio... <br>When you are building the box(lets say you chose a ported box since that is really common) You need to figure out what tune you want to make the box. If you got a very reputable sub and amp(spent a big chunk of change on it) and like sound quality more then loudness I would tune it around 25 to 28 hz otherwise go 30 to 38 hz(the higher you tune it the louder it will be, but you will sound really boomy and wont hit low notes very well) <br>The box design is basic, just make it as strong as you possibly can without violating any acoustic laws that will distort the sound. <br>This is just a very basic summary of car audio, there is a lot more into it then what I have said here. If you want you can find forums and ask questions there, or I can try to answer some here. <br>Currently I sit around 140db flat to about 17hz inside my car, in a 8ft3 box tuned to 27 hz pushing about 1600wattsRMS. Personally 130db to 140db is the loudest i would go, anything above and it starts to sound the same and damages your ears faster. Currently I am fine on hearing but I am still young and RARELY blast it out. So a word of precaution, be careful with high sound levels, even though it may be fun now, its not worth the tinnitus later on in life. <br>Thanks for the comment, and I may do an instructable on car audio later on, currently in college(3rd year electrical engineer) so I doubt I will have the time to do it soon....But if you have any questions I would be glad to try and answer!
Nice instructable! going to build one myself today.
Have fun and take your time!
Nice!! Well I gotta say it is amazing, good job.
How many hertz does the box tune the subs to?
Currently I have it tuned to 18hz for home theater use. The nice thing about passive radiators is that I can change the tuning of the box by taking weight or adding weight to the passive radiators. That way when i want to listen to music for a long time i tune it to 20hz and if I really want to show off the subsonic range of my theater I go to 16hz.
this is awesome. is that needed to use that petterned thing covering inside the box? what does it do?
That covering is just a bedding insulation that i had lying around. What it does is that it dampens the sound inside the box, this eliminates standing waves and essentially makes the box sound bigger then it actually is. Later on I am going to be replacing that insulation with black insulation and change the LED's to either red or blue.
Yeah i was thinking we were building a subwoofer, not an enclosure.
Sorry about that changed the title
Good tutorial but the title is misleading
Good tutorial but the title is misleading

About This Instructable




Bio: I am currently an Electrical Engineering student in my professional career. Currently working at a electrical manufacturing site to get my way through college. Hobbies ... More »
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