Step 19: Pore fill & Finishing

PORE FILL:  Walnut wood has a lot of pores that must be filled to get a smooth finish.  The first mistake I made at this point was thinking that Behlen’s natural pore filler (which I had already purchased) was clear.  Opening the can clarified my misunderstanding.  It was not clear.  After a conversation with a friend and some additional reading, I ended up buying clear epoxy for the pore filling process.  I used System 3 epoxy from LMII for the pore filling.  After light sanding and wiping down the guitar, I applied the epoxy per the instructions on LMII’s site.  The mixture is supposed to be very accurate for the epoxy to cure properly, so this is where I used the small digital scales.  A few ounces goes a long way.  I worked in small areas, applying some epoxy and using a hotel room key card to scrape off the excess.  Once this dried 24 hours later, I sanded level with 320 grit sandpaper.  It appeared that there were still a few open pores, so I applied another coat of epoxy.  I let this dry for a week before sanding with 320 grit.

FINISHING:  Next I applied two coats of Behlen Vinyl sealer, per the manufacturer’s instructions. I applied 5 coats of lacquer, allowing drying time and completing sanding with 320-400 grit between coats.
I give up! I've been looking for good wood for some now. please tell me good sir, where did you order the wood? thank you.
<p>I was fortunate enough to have the walnut and birdseye maple. The only piece I had to buy was the center strip of hard maple. I bought it from Frank Miller Lumber company in Union City Indiana. There is another Amish place in Millersburg Ohio that had a lot of wood - if I were looking. Their name is Keim Lumber.</p>
awesome, I'll take a look at it. hopefully I can find a place in Kansas City.
Thanks jasontsitra. One suggestion. Walnut is pretty but it's heavy. The next one I would make a little thinner - to lighten just a bit.
<p>That is one fine instrument. Great work, man :) about to go outside and cut out a piece of this black walnut tree trunk and start on mine!</p>
<p>I like your example, I too am going to make a custom bass guitar from scratch for My church and this will really help, keep up the good work.</p>
so all said and done, how much was it to make? is it worth it to make your own?
I am glad I did it since I play it every week in our church. I also enjoyed the challenge. I'm starting on serial number 2 now - mainly so I can keep track of the total time by recording the time for each step.
Hey. This is an awesome tutorial and I hope to build a bass at some point. I did some online research and wanted to know if I was correct in saying that if I don't plan to record with this bass and always use an amp, that I wouldn't need to put in a preamp. If anyone could confirm this or give me the correct info that would be great. Thanks in advance. : )
Sorry, I am not an expert in that area. I have never heard it put that way though. I think I read that a 'passive' bass - without preamp - has a better chance of feedback do to other electrical interference; but again, I am not sure. You may want to go to one of the bass guitar forums and check for an answer. Here is one of those forums: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f45/<br><br>
beautiful. fantastic work.
This is amazing craftsmanship.
Thanks. I am about to start on bass guitar - serial #2. This one will be the same general design but will have Brazillian Cherry (Jatoba) in place of the Walnut. This time I am going to try to track the time for all of the operations - just to see if I could make a small business out of building these. Thanks again for your comment.
Congratulations! It was a tough job, that you did beautifully!
That is just beautiful! Excellent work. <br> <br>Makes me miss my my 4 string Peavey Tiger Maple Bass I sold a few months ago.
this is a beast!
wow that is awesome , i am wanting to make my own bass aswell could you possibly send me the sizes of the bass so i could get sizes for my one if that's ok cause i couldn't read them on the paper diagram <br> <br>thanks <br> <br>columbiad
The bass is roughly 47&quot; long, about 12 1/2&quot; wide, and the body/neck is about 1 3/4&quot; thick.
Beautiful! Nice job on the design and they instructions. This is something I'd like to attempt some day. Your instructable has confirmed what I already knew, I'm not ready. ;) Truly a beautiful instrument.
Love it, all of it!! <br>I don't know that much about bass's, but what did you do about the truss rod in the end it's no longer visible at the back side of the neck. how did you cover it? <br>I am going to build a bass myself to but i've not yet started the physical work, I'm still in the planning phase. My biggest problem is absolutely that I have not nearly a tenth of your equipment (no cnc and other heavy machinery), this means I'll have to do almost everything by hand. <br> <br>GRZ Pieter DC
The truss rod is not too bad. If you do not have a cnc, you would need to make a fixture for a router and have a small enough router bit to cut the slot. If you look at about the 6th picture (there are 2 on that page), one picture shows the truss rod laying in the slot and you will notice that I just have a couple pieces of tape holding it in at that point. Once I was ready to install the rod, I use small dabs of silicone to hold it in the general position, then glued on the fret board. Here is a link to some general information on installing the rods. <br> <br>http://www.stewmac.com/freeinfo/Truss_rods/i-0975.html <br> <br>They are not really hard secured in the slot. The ends just fit snug so that any tension on the adjustment rod bows the rod. <br> <br>Good luck.
OH, and if you could also tell me how exactly you installed the truss rod. Because I don't really get it, it has to be secured on one end otherwise it's useless but I dont really see how to.
I must say this is one of the most beautiful bass guitars, used to have a through body and miss it, great build and congrats on being a finalist.....wow
gud pm nailscott do you sell your bass guitar?? i'm interested i'm going 2 buy it..tx me up up..09168567965...thanks
I had not before even considered selling it since I made if for me. Besides, I think the price would be way out of range for the average buyer. I am out of the country and cannot do texting until I return on Mar 17th.
tx me or call up i'll wait..thanks a lot...
that is sooooooooooooo cool
Congrats on being a finalist, and good luck!
Hey thanks. I can only hope it does well.
Thanks for all the comments. I really appreciate them.
This is a hot hot hot looking ax! The nice thing about your CNC process is the level of repeat ability you have now that the drawings and tool paths are done. I am having some CNC envy now.
Great job ...also great design
wow! this is so cool, I would attempt this but I don't have a CNC machine. you probably said it somewhere in the ible' but what type of wood did you use?
This could all be done without a cnc machine, it would just take more time for router fixtures and shaping - but it could be done.<br><br>On the wood, the body dark side wood is walnut; as well as the small 1/8&quot; strips that run from top to bottom through the neck. The very center piece is hard maple, and the two pieces on the outside of the walnut strips are birdseye maple.
You are my hero.
Man, that's a beaut.<br><br>Reminds me of an Alembic with the laminated woods. And you can never have enough clamps.
Thanks caitlinsdad. You are right about the clamps. I think I used everyone in the shop when I clampled the full body and neck together.
I can re-call a clamping event that ended in a frantic search for a diver's weight belt- the glue had introduced an unpredicted chaos the dry fit had not revealed! Nice 'ible, passing it on to my son- who is nagging for a bass!
The greatest story ever told <a href="http://www.gibson.com/en-us/Lifestyle/Features/brian-may-red-special-521/" rel="nofollow">http://www.gibson.com/en-us/Lifestyle/Features/brian-may-red-special-521/</a>&nbsp;If you really want it, you have to make it yourself.
I will pass this on to him! Thanks!

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