Hello everyone

In this instructable I will show you how to make a 3d printer under 200$.

This 3D printer -Tower Simple XL, Maybe I should call it 3D printer of Sauron, lol.

This 3D printer have 6* 6* 6 Inches build volum and you can build it without any 3Dprint part.(*Laser cutting needed*)

If you like this instructable, comment and share this project with your friends who might like this instructable.

Thanks very much.

Step 1: Mechanical Parts List

I buy these things on Alibaba, these things will be more expensive on ebay.

This is the reason why I can build 3D printer under 200$.

M3 10mm screws *29

M3 16mm screws *48

M3 nuts *42

M4 16mm screws *4

M4 nuts *4

M4 shim *4

624 bearing *4

T8 Leadscrew 285mm *1

Leadscrew nuts *1

M3 spring 8mm *5

M5 spring 20mm *1

Coupler 5mm to 8mm *1

M3 pillars 16mm *5

M3 pillars 60mm *1

MXL 20T pulley *2

MXL belt *2

Cylinder Liner Rail Linear 8-215MM *4

Cylinder Liner Rail Linear 8-340MM *2

End stop *3

Nema 17 *4

<p>Hello friend. Did u used LM8UU linear bearings ?</p>
Yes in here we use 12 of those
<p>Hello, I uploaded Marlin to arduino, but nothing shows on LCD, and Cura says the printer is not connected.</p>
<p>could you be more specific</p>
<p>so i am done with the design and it is working really well but can you put a link with the actual code in c so I can modify it on arduino.</p>
<p>is the dollars in USD? or something?</p>
<p>Has anyone tried to scale this up? I'm personally looking to do 12&quot; x 12&quot; x Anything over 6&quot;. </p>
<p>I believe it is possible, but that would be whole new sizes of parts. However, the only mod I have done is a heated bed on this.</p>
<p>My work ;)</p><p>https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZFLqyrLBPF8</p>
<p>I downloaded all the files, and I only have Solidwork. So, few file can be opened while other can't. Could you suggest me what software suitable to view the drawing (as I need to know the sizing and dimension before laser cutting it)? Thanks</p>
<p>Awesome! Would you mind sharing the mods you used? Like, are you using a E3D hotend? How do you mount the hotend and the extruder? Thanks!</p>
<p>And printed mounting and extruder from this project </p><p>http://www.thingiverse.com/make:172739</p>
<p>I use Lama3D hotend ( </p><p>http://www.byq3d.eu/index.php?id_product=22&amp;controller=product&amp;id_lang=7</p><p> ). All mod can view/download in my </p><p>http://www.thingiverse.com/cyryllo/designs</p>
<p>Thanks for your sharing.<br>My printer is made of acrylic with modified filament roll and x-axis.<br>Thanks again.</p>
<p>size X axis ? 150mm or more ?</p>
<p>I downloaded all the files, and I only have Solidwork. So, few file can be opened while other can't. Could you suggest me what software suitable to view the drawing (as I need to know the sizing and dimension before laser cutting it)? Thanks</p>
<p>Finally would call it a built. A big thank-you to AlmusYang on this Instructable. Although it does not cover everything, but the design is really complete. For a newbie like me, I think this printer is easier to DIY compared with other popular choices such as Prusa i3. </p>
<p>I downloaded all the files, and I only have Solidwork. So, few file can be opened while other can't. Could you suggest me what software suitable to view the drawing (as I need to know the sizing and dimension before laser cutting it)? Thanks</p>
<p>So I calibrated my XYZ axis, so how do I get My E steps per mm buck up? What did you use and how did you calibrate it, because when I print the Universal filament filter it ends up looking like a dumbell, so please help. Thank you in advance.</p>
<p>Watch this video by Tom: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YUPfBJz3I6Y. Basically, try to extruder 100mm filament using the LCD controller and see how long it actually extrudes, then change E accordingly.</p>
I've calibrated it, but what I find strange is that my calibration ends up at 116 e mm, then other calibration brings 122 e mm, than another brings 116 e mm and so on. My prints are still not coming out nice, is it bed leveling my problem because my first layers come nice, but the other layers are messed up. So what should I do and what settings did you use for Cura. Thank you for your reply in advance.
<p>I've found provided firmware... inconsistent - for one print I had to set e-steps to 162, the other day I had to set it to 1620.</p>
<p>Well, there are so many parameters that can affect your final results. I suggest having a look at this: https://www.simplify3d.com/support/print-quality-troubleshooting/ to find out which is your problem. It is common to have inconsistent results for the E steps, and a difference of 6 is not so large. If you are printing PLA, a very important is the cooling. Try printing at a lower temperature and adding fans blowing onto your prints. Good luck!</p>
<p>I would like to highlight my issue, my printer isn't printing ROUND objects, but square objects are fine, how do I fix this</p>
<p>I feel like I need to mention some mods I did to my Tower simple. I really recommend reading <a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/dianusindustrial" rel="nofollow">dianusindustrial</a>'s blogs before building. At least for me it saved me a lot of time and money.</p><p>First, as you can see from the pic, I printed myself a fan shroud. <a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:989420." rel="nofollow">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:989420. </a> However, this might not work for the extruder you got. Double check the STL file before printing. </p><p>Next, I printed a universal filament filter (<a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:492067" rel="nofollow">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:492067</a>), not shown in the picture. This is used to remove any dust on the filament and also for lubrication. </p><p>I strongly recommend getting a fan blowing to your print bed, otherwise you will get a lot of curling for the PLA. Also, calibrate your extruder before printing. Took me couple of goes to have just right E step per mm, otherwise you will have over or under extrusion.</p><p>Finally, not sure how effective this is, but for me it turned out putting six rubber bumpers (like this: http://www.mcmaster.com/#standard-bumpers/=10kkjfv) under the printer helped reducing the vibration.</p>
<p>BTW, another thing I would like to mention is that for the Y axis stepper motor, the clearance is pretty tight, but it is the length of motor SHAFT not motor body that matters. I still used a 48mm long NEMA17, but had to use a hack saw to shorten the shaft by ~4mm. </p>
<p>I am Making it with Complete Acrylic, am i require to take any special care in design or will it work</p><p>secondly i am having vibrations &amp; jerks in movement of arms &amp; axis on belt driven axis z is quite smooth</p><p>my build may be completed till tomorrow will upload pics then</p><p>Thanks to Author! of such nice detailed information</p><p>will seek further help once my build completes</p><p>pls advise if any one have symbolic solutions of it</p>
<p>I downloaded all the files, and I only have Solidwork. So, few file can be opened while other can't. Could you suggest me what software suitable to view the drawing (as I need to know the sizing and dimension before laser cutting it)? Thanks</p>
<p>Thanks for the knowledge shared here. </p>
<p>Hello. </p><p>Were there any problems associated with the fact that you printed all lasercut components in acrylic? I am hoping to make this soon and would like to know if this is suitable equivalent. </p>
<p>Hi, i'm currently building one of this printers, but i have several questions:</p><p>1) How do I setup the Arduino board? I have Arduino IDE, but dont know what to do with it.</p><p>2)I bought an LCD12864 Display but I don't know if it will work with the board, and if it will, if it changes the configuration?</p><p>3)I don't understand where does the 4 NEMA 17 stepper goes (the one that is not for the axis), I seen pictures of it with the hot end .<br></p><p>4) What is the blue surface? is it a special tape or hot bed?</p><p>5) I could not find pillars, does any want know a piece that can replace them?</p>
<p>friends could tell me what is the meaning of m3, m4, m5 in the materials list</p>
<p>Standard nut sizes. </p>
My last print.
In Acrylic
Wood vibrates much . It is better in acrylic .<br>Excellent design, thank you very much .
<p>I couldn't help modifying mine a bit, made mine 200 x 150 x 150 build size and woodworked it out of plywood instead of laser cutting. I ended up changing to a Bowden setup to keep strain off the Y and Z axis due to weight. I must admit this probably wasn't the smartest move given the cheap extruder I put on gave me fits (poor design...which I modified to work) and I'm topping out the torque on my direct drive extruder motor setup. It just means I have to run this a little slower, between 15 and 25 mm/s. I had trouble initially with the firmware, I found it was a wiring issue in the end. Before I discovered my error I set up everything in Marlin and have been using that since. Thanks for the inspiring design, it was a fun build (my first) and I was definitely able to keep this under $200 US. </p>
<p>My modyfication:</p><p>New electronic case</p><p>A larger bed 200x150 mm</p><p><a href="http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1621294" rel="nofollow">http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1621294</a></p>
<p>This is a great design, I just finished building mine. It's not shown in this picture but I actually replaced the bed with an acrylic bed and it looks great and the PLA prints perfectly to it, I recommend it. I currently have a friend who is building your $299 printer and its coming out great! Thank you for this instructable!</p>
<p>I'm from Korea and ,I'm 13years old.</p><p>Nice to meet you.</p><p>I want to make this printer.</p><p>I read this guide on the internet.</p><p>But I have a problem.</p><p>I don't know the size of wood and acrylic board.</p><p>Please let me know.</p><p>Thank you in advance.</p>
<p>for the size thing when you open the files for the laser cutting you have the sizes embedded in the file</p>
<p>Thanks </p>
<p>I have a question about the extruder, when you assemble this you have to take the extruder apart and put it back together with that piece of wood in between the motor and the extruder assembly, how does the filament then get brought to the hotend if the cog on the motor is not able to push it through?</p>
<p>why I use the &quot;Auto Home&quot;, my Z axis is going up?</p>
<p>when I set feed rate to 300 stepper motors whistle but they don't move, i set feedrate to 8 mm/s and they work but i think it is't normal, what can I do?</p>
<p>i use drv8825 and print-area is wrong, when start printing the printer go out of border, what can I do?</p>
<p>HI, i have a big problem, all work except for print area, when the printer starts to print exceeds the limit and it begins to strain the engine even though I set max area 150*150*150 (6*6*6), how can i solve this issue?</p>
<p>The code file provided is that everything that is needed for this printer or do i still need to use something like marlin?</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: Maker
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