Step 3: Refining the helmet base
Time to get the shape a little more accurate, Chances are there are some dips and uneven parts to the foam, but we'll take care of that in this step.
Start out by mixing up some urethane resin and brushing a few coats over the top of your foam-and-MDF form. This application of resin serves two purposes: It gives us a strong base to sculpt and sand on top of, and it protects the polystyrene foam from chemicals that will dissolve it in the steps to come. (pic 2)
After letting the resin cure, sand the surface with rough sandpaper. This will give your filler putty something to adhere to. (pic 3)
Start covering the indented spots of the helmet with thin passes of bondo or filler putty. Take your time with this, there's no need to slather on 30lbs of the stuff only to have to suffer sanding it all off later. Make thin, smooth passes and sand them down as needed. (pic 4)
Using a contour gauge will ensure you have symmetry on all sides of the helmet. Remember, the MDF "spines" in the base should be extracted form your blueprints, and represent the outermost edges of the helmet. You want to be able to see signs of these underneath the filler to make sure you're not making the base too large. (pic 5)
This is a "feel" step, so make sure to run your hand over the helmet after each pass, noting the indented areas with a marker and filling appropriately. It will take a little while to make perfect, but put in the time now because the results will be worth it! (pics 6 & 7)
Materials needed:
Start out by mixing up some urethane resin and brushing a few coats over the top of your foam-and-MDF form. This application of resin serves two purposes: It gives us a strong base to sculpt and sand on top of, and it protects the polystyrene foam from chemicals that will dissolve it in the steps to come. (pic 2)
After letting the resin cure, sand the surface with rough sandpaper. This will give your filler putty something to adhere to. (pic 3)
Start covering the indented spots of the helmet with thin passes of bondo or filler putty. Take your time with this, there's no need to slather on 30lbs of the stuff only to have to suffer sanding it all off later. Make thin, smooth passes and sand them down as needed. (pic 4)
Using a contour gauge will ensure you have symmetry on all sides of the helmet. Remember, the MDF "spines" in the base should be extracted form your blueprints, and represent the outermost edges of the helmet. You want to be able to see signs of these underneath the filler to make sure you're not making the base too large. (pic 5)
This is a "feel" step, so make sure to run your hand over the helmet after each pass, noting the indented areas with a marker and filling appropriately. It will take a little while to make perfect, but put in the time now because the results will be worth it! (pics 6 & 7)
Materials needed:
- Urethane resin
- Bondo (or other resin filler)
- Sanding block
- Orbital sander
- 50, 80, 120 & 220 grit sandpaper
- Contour gauge
- Respirator and safety glasses
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