Step 6: Building the Superstructure : Lower Support Structure

Building the SuperStructure: Building the Lower Support Structure

After measuring the washer hull, and determining it's dimensions, you can begin to build the superstructure within which the extractor would operate. The washing machine hull, being made of thin appliance sheeting, was quite flimsy once it's tube and internals were removed. Hence, you will need to build a superstructure to both support a vertical rotating axle about which the honey frames will rotate, but to also provide rigidity to the washer hull. If you are building a simple box frame, instead of using the washer hull, this will not be an issue for you...but what fun would that be?

In order to center you lower bearing block, you will need to build a lower support system from 1" light wall tubing. This lower support system will center the lower bearing block, and will support the weight of the axle.

First, measure the interior diameter of your hull. Check it both at the top, and that bottom, in case your hull is on a taper. If your hull is tapered, use your bottom diameter measurement for construction of your bottom bracket, and your top measurement for construction of your top bracket.

Once you have the diameter at the bottom of your hull measured, you will need to cut three joints of 1" square tubing to length, (leaving a little extra on each piece's length), and 'mock-up' the base structure within your frame (as seen in the photos). You will also need to account for the flat 'plates' you will be welding onto the ends of your cross members through which you will drill and place your mounting bolts (plates are 1/8" thick). Use C-Clamps (as seen in photos) to hold your mocked up lower supports in place.

Go ahead and cut out eight support backing plates, measuring 3" x 2" from your 1/8" thick, 3" wide flat steel stock. You can pick this up at any Home Depot/Lowes type store. After cutting out all eight, stack them in your drill press as shown, and drill two 3/8" holes in each plate, to allow for 1/4" mounting bolts. ALWAYS use a centerpunch to mark your drill points, so your drill bit doesn't 'walk' on your material. Additionally, once you drill your first hole, if you have to remove your 'stack' of plates to drill the second, use another drill bit to maintain alignment of your first holes, so your second holes are perfectly spaces (see photos below, and notes in photos).

After reviewing the mock-up of the lower support/bearing mount, some trimming may be required. It's best to always leave an 1/8" extra or so, and trim it off, rather than wasting a piece you cut too short. Always remember to account for the width of your saw's blade when cutting (see photos).

I would stick to my support design as shown, as opposed to doing a simple support with only two contact points. Using the three (well, four technically) point layout I have shown below will add rigidity to the flimsy hull, and will allow you to center your bearing, without drilling through your cross member (by allowing you to offset your cross member so it doesn't lay in the exact center axis of the hull, where your axle is going to sit).

After final fitting in mock-up, the steel tubing should be removed, and prepped for welding by removing all mill scale/rust using an angle grinder, wire brush, or other abrasive. Also, if appropriate, bevel edges on weld joints.

Use C-Clamps and a 90 degree square to ensure your tubing is set up correctly. Tack weld each piece, and save final welding for when entire superstructure has been test fitted (upper and lower brackets) in case you need to make adjustments. Use C-Clamp setup as shown in photos to weld on your end plates to the lower mounting cross members. ALWAYS tack weld first, then test fit. Only do final welds after you are sure you have everything setup perfect.

Now, you will need to cut a piece of 1/8" thick plate to span your lower bracket, to act as a 'pad' for your lower bearing block (see photos).

After you cut a piece (approximately 6" x 4") weld it into position in your lower bracket.

Determine position of lower bearing block on this plate, and mark mounting bolt holes.

Drill mounting bolt holes (1/2") for lower bearing block in the plate, along with a center hole of 1" to allow the axle to pass through. One method for cutting the 1" axle hole is shown in the photos. Simply cut smaller (3/8"?) holes around the circumference of the axle hole position, and knock out with a cold chisel (again, see photos and photo notes).

You will now need to drill matching mounting holes in your washer hull for the lower support bracket. Simply install the lower bracket and check with a level. Then use a hand drill (as shown) to drill through the hull, using your lower bracket mounts as alignment guides.

Fit-up your lower bracket, and mate external mounting bracket plates, and install loosely your bolts.

Your lower bracket is complete.
What a childhood trip this has been. I remember seeing one of these when I was but a little lad. Finally I may just be able to build one of this! It seems very elaborate and well-thought, props to that! This is probably out of topic but I would most certainly add designs to the exterior with a really vintage paint like red mahogany paint with antique silver designs around it. You know, just to be classy and all.
When I was growing up, my father had a homemade extractor made out of a garbage can. There was a bolt on the top that with the right driver bit enabled two frames at a time to be spun with an electric drill. A pipe was was welded into the bottom of the can to drain out the honey. It worked very well...and, I *hope* the garbage can was painted with food grade paint, but not sure.
Here's a cheap and easy beehive to go with your extractor:<br>http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-your-own-Honey-Cow-Top-Bar-Bee-Hive/
I'm working on a non-electric version of one of these using a 55 gallon barrel and some bicycle parts for the spinner. Hope to post the instructable sometime soon. Thanks for the post, it's great!!
MtnGrown: Thanks for the comment. I've see a couple units constructed using the 55 gallon drum and bike spokes/rims as the basis of frame holders. We just finished using my unit for spring honey harvest on a few hives, and it's worked well, although the ceiling fan motor was grossly underpowered. It worked, but took nearly 20 mintues to spin down to shallow frames....too long. We've switched it to a variable speed 1/2&quot; drill motor, which works much better. The only input I'd have for you is: 1) If you set your frames like i did mine (radially), the wind resistance is surprisingly high. If you are doing a hand crank, or pedal powered...it might be worth considering orienting the frames in a non-radial pattern where only one side is extracted at a time....and then you flip them over. While that seems like a nuisance, it is surprising how much wind resistance comes from a honey frame...and that might be pertinent to your implementation, given you won't use an electric motor. 2) &quot;Pickle Barrels&quot;....Food grade barrels seem shady at best, when you buy them. People here sell them, but I never had any idea how to tell if they are indeed food grade, or if they really came from a factory making something toxic, and the guys selling them are fibbing. That said...I've heard several people say that pickling companies sell their barrels, which are obviously food grade...so if you know someone working in any food supply industry...that might be a good place to get a barrel you are sure has not been exposed to anything that might pollute your honey. Thanks again for the view and input...much appreciated...I'm just glad someone out there has found my post useful! We're in the great state of WV...so keep the 'Mountain Grown&quot; theme going!
Beautiful state, WV! I have kin up there. I'm in the northern Appalachians of North Carolina myself, so we're practically neighbors in mountain terms, lol. I hadn't considered the wind resistance factor, glad you brought it up. I have some recovered motors here from things like old refrigerators, washing machines and waterpumps. Think I'll use one of them on the drive gear instead of a hand crank and I'll just keep the hand crank option open for when I have to extract off-grid. Seems like pedal power would be great but difficult to set up unless you used a worm drive of some sort. Gotta love rural ingenuity...lol.
&nbsp;Very nice and detailed, looks like a professional job! But one question, since the wire basket you made looks like un-protected metal, is there any rust or metal taste that gets in the honey? I'm building an extractor at the moment, and trying to find out what would be best as a basket, but we don't have a welder!&nbsp;
Thanks for the feedback.<br /> <br /> I actually bought a food grade paint (which is clear) and coated the internal components (not the liner, but everything else) with it.&nbsp; It took some digging locally, but I found paint that met the 'food grade' requirement.<br /> <br /> Many apiarist (bee keeper) websites sell a similar paint on their sites, so a quick google search should yield those places as well.<br /> <br /> You can buy &quot;brush on&quot; or &quot;spray on&quot; food grade paint, but the 'spray on&quot; isn't as easy as it sounds, so I'd say go with the &quot;brush on&quot;.&nbsp; I don't sell my honey commercially, so it's not as big of a concern, but if you are going to sell commercially, you might check with your local Agricultural Extension Agent (a free service in your state) and talk to them about other options.<br /> <br /> Thanks again...and if you want to talk about my 'lessons learned' and hear what I would do differently, you can message me with your email address, and I'll be happy to talk about it.<br /> <br /> Thanks again.<br /> <br />
&nbsp;Ah yes food grade paint, I was thinking about that as an option as well. Thanks for the reply!
i am a bee keeper and have to exract at a friends house due to me not having an extracter so thanks for the idea
Happy to help out anyone thinking about bee keeping! Other alternatives to my build might be sourcing a stainless steel 'liner' from a seller of used restaurant equipment/supplies (maybe a large stainless 'pot' or 'kettle'?) Of course...if your friend let you use their extractor for free...you might ask him/her if it would just be easier to "store their extractor at YOUR house"!!!! ;-) Good luck with you hives, and I hope you have a good honey-flow this year!
well honey isn't a aggressive market so i work hand in hand with the guy who has the extractor and he live just down the road... but i might just build it for a weekend project, again thanks. also have you been hit with ccd this year? just curious
Fortunately, I had no CCD events. My primary problem at the current time is ensuring honey stores are enough in the hives for winter, here in WV. I am currently feeding my bees syrup mix, in an attempt to ensure they make it until the Spring, without depleting their honey supplies in the hives.
exactly whats going on here... in NY, what chemicals do you mix with your syrup? i assume sugar, water and,.... the chemical. this is my fisrt year doing it as a 17 yr old, but my father has done it for over 30yrs, so hes obviously abig help.
I'm actually in WV. I don't mix any chemicals in my syrup...I just bring about a gallon of water to just below boiling, add 2:1 ratio of sugar, and stir until the sugar totally dissolves. Then I feed it using a one gallon ziploc bag.<br/>You can how in the following link:<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.beesource.com/eob/baggie.htm">http://www.beesource.com/eob/baggie.htm</a><br/><br/>Good luck with your bees!<br/>
we add a chemical to the mixture for the mites...
this group<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://beehuman.blogspot.com/2009/03/kirkobeeo-rescues-tree-hive.html">http://beehuman.blogspot.com/2009/03/kirkobeeo-rescues-tree-hive.html</a><br/>thinks no chemicals, use &quot;paint stick&quot; as the middle frame and bees will be stronger, less mites, etc. We have bees now for about 3 years, no CCD, and great honey.<br/>
checked the link, but we have top feeders so we dont have to open the hives up ever time. but thanks for the great link
Couldnt you just run the combs through a wringer that it came with?? Great Idea Wonderful Ible'
This was great. You mentioned that you might do an instructable about how to build a hive and start with bees. I'd like to say that I'd love to see that. Can you build a "complete" hive from scratch? That Q comes from my limited exposure to bee keeping when I was shown the parts that hang down into the hive. They appeared to be manufactured and were basically sheets of some material (plastic or wax?) pressed into a hive shaped pattern. If you make a hive from scratch do you need something like that? Thanks again
Hello Flyerd1: yep...you can certainly build your hives from scratch....and that's what I did...except for the frames (which hang in the boxes). it's just cheaper to buy the frame kits (unassembled) than undertake cutting them yourself. you can certainly make your hive boxes, lids, bases, etc yourself, adn save mucho money. just have a look at the links i've posted in other comments, and you'll find free plans online, with easy to follow instructions. as for 'wax foundation' (the sheets of material in the frames)...you can use it if you choose, or you may choose not to...you can purchase such wax sheeting from common bee suppliers (online) in varying sizes/shapes. after your bees are established, wax sheets are less critical, and you'll use less of them (in most cases). i would encourage anyone considering beekeeping to reach out to the free resources online, and the local agricultural office for your area (state organizations)...it's not as complex as it might seen...and once you get started, you'll enjoy it! good luck!
I don't know if anyone has noticed this or not... if so, I apologize in advance... but it appears that your combs go in perpendicular to the walls of the tub. Could you modify this so that they go in parallel? I went to a beekeeping workshop this week, and they had VERY EXPENSIVE extractor there that was hand operated. The beekerper cuts off the caps from the comb with a hot knife, loads the frame in the extractor with the cut side facing out, and spins it by hand a few dozen times to extract the honey. When one side is empty, remove the frame, cut the caps on the other side, insert it again, and spin. This kept the comb from being damaged, too. There was a metal grid around the frame it rested against while spinning. Watching it in use got me thinking about making one... and in looking, I found yours! This is an awesome 'ible! The only thing I'd modify is the orientation of the holders for the frames. Yours holds 2x as may frames at a time, by the way... another improvement. Well done! And I think my mother-in-law has that exact same "antique" washing machine in her barn... in green. I'm gonna go requisition it tomorrow... :-)
Yep...that's right...my frames are perpendicular. This is called a 'radial' setup. Combs are actually built by the bees with a slight vertical 'slant' to the cells, meaning one end of the cell is tipped 'up' in a sense. So...if you orient the combs correctly, the honey will flow out easier. Both radial, and non-radial extractors work. In a radial extractor, you don't have to stop once you've done one side, and flip over the frame and do it again. In a radial, you just load them one time (saving time). Both are legit methods...I just prefer the radial units. If you browse a bit online, you'll see commercially produced radial extractors that can hold EIGHT frames (that's a lot of rotating mass, and has to have a motor large enough to accommodate that much mass)....but they are out there, if you can afford them. The only problem with using the washing machine is it limits the diameter, and hence, using a radial design, you are limited to shallow supers (in my case). If your machine is larger in diameter, or you develop a better liner, you may be able to spin Illinois supers radially...but perhaps your idea to switch to a non-radial configuration could compensate and allow for the narrow radius. In any event, good luck, and if you have questions, feel free to message me. www.northerntool.com is a good place for cheap bearings and such... Glad to meet another beekeeper, and really happy you found the 'ible' useful!!! ;-) again...if you have questions, do message me!
Congratulations! I can almost taste that honey. Enjoy your new tools!
Great project, and great writeup! Only problem is, how many people have access to honeycomb racks conveniently coated with honey? :) I'd love one of these, if I had a honey-farm. Good stuff
FROLLARD:<br/>Thanks for the compliments....so....the other part of my Instructable to get more people interested in beekeeping...so they would have honeycomb frames to spin in their extractors!<br/><br/>I've only been doing it for a year or so now, and I never thought I'd be a beekeeper...but it's great fun...environmentally helpful...educational...and can be done pretty much anywhere...not just on some rural farm!<br/><br/>So....perhaps my next Instructable should be how to build your own hives, and get started with bees?<br/><br/>Do check out these sites, and consider keeping a hive this summer...you'll need to get started soon....it's almost spring!<br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.beemaster.com/">http://www.beemaster.com/</a><br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.beesource.com/">http://www.beesource.com/</a><br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.gobeekeeping.com/">http://www.gobeekeeping.com/</a><br/><br/>Thanks again!!!<br/>
those are some pretty neat resources. Still not sure the landlord would like a bee hive on my balcony :)
Congratulations on becoming a finalist in the Craftsman Workshop of the Future contest! Good luck!
Thanks! I'm excited about making 'round 3'. My girlfriend dug your wine bottle lights...I suspect I'll end up making that soon... They looked great, and are a great recycle...I look forward to seeing what else you come up with. Thanks again.
Beautiful work! I am a WV beekeeper also so you make me doubly proud! I have pics of a homemade extractor (no where near as fancy as yours, but...) on my site if you want to have a look<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.myhomeamongthehills.com/honeybees/equipment/">Homemade extractor</a><br/><br/>Anyhow, you get my vote for the contest!<br/>
Hey...thanks for the compliment! Your extractor is great as well...I like the screen basket you built. Very effective. You should post your unit as an INSTRUCTABLE as well...I think the more people see how easily you can build an extractor...people might further their bee experiences. Thanks again!
Simple in design, but cool.
Thanks so much. Yes...I did a very simple design. This things will get used about three times a year or so...and I needed to be able to pull it out, use it, and put it away, with little effort, and not having to 'fix' it every time, or anything. Thanks for having a look, and the positive feedback.
When I was a girl, we used an old milk separator. It worked very well. I like your plan, it is electric. It will go much faster.
Thanks for the comments. My electric unit is pretty quick, but I was careful to not have it go TOO fast, so it doesn't collapse my honeycomb. Using wire in your combs can help...but too much speed would probably result in collapsed comb, that would come out of the frames. I'm sure your milk separator worked well...and was a pretty classic way to do it. Thanks again!
Great instructable. I took a beekeeping course from George Imari (invented the Imari shim). How are the bee hives doing these days? I've noticed a great reduction in domestic bees and fortunately we have a variety of wild bees in our area. Now, how about some of that delicious honey!?~
Even if I weren't a beekeeper, you'd still get my vote! What a challenging entry and I hope you win!
Hey...I hope I win as well! Thanks for reading...and if you aren't keeping bees...you might think about it...an fun, interesting hobby, that can be done pretty much anywhere. Thanks again!
BTW...I'm the owner of this I-BLE...previous post from SCHRISTY05 was actually from me...it just posted under my girlfriend's account...she was on my laptop voting for me, and it either didn't log out, or cached her account. ...but yes...you should definitely consider beekeeping...it's surprisingly interesting!
I totally agree...I've been a backyard apiarist for about 25 years and know for a fact that suburbia will never have too many bee ambassadors! Thanks for promoting this unique hobby :o)
Fantastic Instructable! You gave such great detail, I'm actually going to try to build this one. Thanks for the recommended bee keeping sites too, were getting Bees in the spring so I'll be checking them out. I thank you and My Garden thanks you : )
I'm glad you found the instructable so helpful! If you aren't concerned about the 'washer factor', you could follow the exact same process, and simply use a 55gallon barrel as your liner, and a simple box frame of 1" square tubing, as used in my build. While it won't be as 'antique' in appearance, it would be equally as functional, and would allow you to radially spin brood frames as well (and probably do the build in about 4-5 hours). As also mentioned elsewhere, you might consider checking with local restaurant supply stores selling used equipment....you might find a nice cheap stainless option for a liner at such a place. Thanks again for the compliment!
BTW...I'm the owner of this I-BLE...previous post from SCHRISTY05 was actually from me...it just posted under my girlfriend's account...she was on my laptop voting for me, and it either didn't log out, or cached her account. -jonathan
Nice ible and cool pictures of that motor, gets me thinking ..
Thanks for the compliment. Yes...after using the ceiling fan motor, and based on the fact that it only costs $20 new...I'm also thinking there are some other creative uses for such a cheap, well built motor.
Indeed .. I'm thinking : .. conversion to a brushless outboarder motor using large, curved neodymes in a lathed aluminium shell. .. same idea as the motor but for a windgenerator. .. large scale steppermotor for really huge robotics or cnc applications. .. using it as is for EV-builds. .. the outboarder motor could be made as an in-wheel motor.
Good instructable, even though I won't need a honey extractor anytime soon, very detailed. I also liked how you tried to get bonus point by mentioning every <em>craftsman</em> tools you have.<br/>
Thanks for the positive comments! If you don't need an extractor...that means you're not keeping bees yet! You should think about keeping a hive...it's great fun, and yields a lot more than just tasty honey. ...and you're right...I haven't met a Craftsman tool I didn't like. Thanks again for viewing my first attempt at an Instructable!
This couldn't have appeared at a better time! I just started beekeeping here in Australia, and there is no way in hell I am forking out $600+ for an electric radial extractor...Thankyou very much!!
Thanks for the comments, and good luck with your bees! You might also consider a more 'torque-y' motor solution than I chose if you are going to do this build...my 'backup' motor is off of a rotary ice cream maker....if you do build one, you might consider picking one of those up as a possible alternative (and perhaps better?) drive motor solution to the ceiling fan motor. Good luck and I hope you're knee deep in honey your first year with hives!

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