Step 8: Building the Superstructure : Making the Centershaft/Axle 1

Building the Center Axle and Honeycomb Baskets

You are going to need a centershaft/axle, with 'baskets' to hold the honey frames. This axle will be aligned in the center of your extractor, DEAD center of your 'liner' (which catches the honey), and will mount into your bearing blocks/bearings at the top support, and bottom support connection points.

In my construction, I made this step WAY too complicated. I'll detail my process I carried out here anyway...but you can save this entire mess (of adapting square tubing to round bearing receivers), if you simply use round tubing for your entire axle. For instance, if you are using 3/4" Internal Diameter (ID) bearings , then simply choose a piece of heavy walled 3/4" Outer Diameter (OD) stainless tubing as your shaft material, and you won't have to make any special end pieces/etc to adapt to the bearings...your tubing will slip right into your axle bearings, with no lathe/other heavy equipment involved.

In my case, however, I used square tubing for the center portion of the axle...and hence, I had to fabricate axle ends which adapted the square axle to mount in the (obviously) round bearing receivers.

So....to do this (overly complicated, and unnecessary) task:

I selected the same 1" light wall tubing I've used in the other parts of construction. You will need to have an axle length AT LEAST long enough to accommodate the fact that your honeycomb hive frames are 19" in width. I calculated my center axle length as 19" plus about 4" on each end to receive the bearing axle adapters, making my center axle length 27" initially (although, I trimmed this down later during test fitting). Since you have already built and test fitted your upper and lower support structures, you can measure the distance between your bearing to get an idea of your axle lenght.

Cut yourself a center axle piece to length, using the preceding measurement you took.

To adapt the square tubing to the round bearings, you'll need to fabricate an adapter.

For this adapter, wyu can choose a piece of 'round stock steel' (a round bar of steel) of size 1". You can see in the photo that this is obviously the same size in diameter as our 1" square tubing.

Mount your 1" round stock up in the lathe, and turn it down until it's just small enough to slip INSIDE your 1" square tubing (this will vary, based on your 1" tubing wall thickness). Try to get a tight fit, to save having to do any alignments. A sloppy fit will lead to a wobbly axle. You want it to slip perfectly in the square tubing, with NO play at all.

You will want to have at least 1.5" in length of this shaft INSIDE the square tubing for strength.

Now, leaving yourself 1.5" of the freshly turned round stock, turn down the rest of the piece to the internal diameter (ID) size of your bearings. In my case, this was 3/4". Again, you want to shoot for a snug fit...as sloppy fit will lead to vibration of your axle.

You should now have a length of square tubing which comprises the center of the axle, and two end pieces of solid steel, which fit snuggly into the end of that square tubing, and also into the bearing sleeves (see photos for details).

Now that you have two finished axle ends, insert them into your square tubing piece of axle you have cut to length, and center punch a mark to cross drill the tube AND axle (see photo). This will allow you to pass a bolt through the axle end, and the square axle tubing, and still let you disassemble the axle unit, if necessary.
What a childhood trip this has been. I remember seeing one of these when I was but a little lad. Finally I may just be able to build one of this! It seems very elaborate and well-thought, props to that! This is probably out of topic but I would most certainly add designs to the exterior with a really vintage paint like red mahogany paint with antique silver designs around it. You know, just to be classy and all.
When I was growing up, my father had a homemade extractor made out of a garbage can. There was a bolt on the top that with the right driver bit enabled two frames at a time to be spun with an electric drill. A pipe was was welded into the bottom of the can to drain out the honey. It worked very well...and, I *hope* the garbage can was painted with food grade paint, but not sure.
Here's a cheap and easy beehive to go with your extractor:<br>http://www.instructables.com/id/Make-your-own-Honey-Cow-Top-Bar-Bee-Hive/
I'm working on a non-electric version of one of these using a 55 gallon barrel and some bicycle parts for the spinner. Hope to post the instructable sometime soon. Thanks for the post, it's great!!
MtnGrown: Thanks for the comment. I've see a couple units constructed using the 55 gallon drum and bike spokes/rims as the basis of frame holders. We just finished using my unit for spring honey harvest on a few hives, and it's worked well, although the ceiling fan motor was grossly underpowered. It worked, but took nearly 20 mintues to spin down to shallow frames....too long. We've switched it to a variable speed 1/2&quot; drill motor, which works much better. The only input I'd have for you is: 1) If you set your frames like i did mine (radially), the wind resistance is surprisingly high. If you are doing a hand crank, or pedal powered...it might be worth considering orienting the frames in a non-radial pattern where only one side is extracted at a time....and then you flip them over. While that seems like a nuisance, it is surprising how much wind resistance comes from a honey frame...and that might be pertinent to your implementation, given you won't use an electric motor. 2) &quot;Pickle Barrels&quot;....Food grade barrels seem shady at best, when you buy them. People here sell them, but I never had any idea how to tell if they are indeed food grade, or if they really came from a factory making something toxic, and the guys selling them are fibbing. That said...I've heard several people say that pickling companies sell their barrels, which are obviously food grade...so if you know someone working in any food supply industry...that might be a good place to get a barrel you are sure has not been exposed to anything that might pollute your honey. Thanks again for the view and input...much appreciated...I'm just glad someone out there has found my post useful! We're in the great state of WV...so keep the 'Mountain Grown&quot; theme going!
Beautiful state, WV! I have kin up there. I'm in the northern Appalachians of North Carolina myself, so we're practically neighbors in mountain terms, lol. I hadn't considered the wind resistance factor, glad you brought it up. I have some recovered motors here from things like old refrigerators, washing machines and waterpumps. Think I'll use one of them on the drive gear instead of a hand crank and I'll just keep the hand crank option open for when I have to extract off-grid. Seems like pedal power would be great but difficult to set up unless you used a worm drive of some sort. Gotta love rural ingenuity...lol.
&nbsp;Very nice and detailed, looks like a professional job! But one question, since the wire basket you made looks like un-protected metal, is there any rust or metal taste that gets in the honey? I'm building an extractor at the moment, and trying to find out what would be best as a basket, but we don't have a welder!&nbsp;
Thanks for the feedback.<br /> <br /> I actually bought a food grade paint (which is clear) and coated the internal components (not the liner, but everything else) with it.&nbsp; It took some digging locally, but I found paint that met the 'food grade' requirement.<br /> <br /> Many apiarist (bee keeper) websites sell a similar paint on their sites, so a quick google search should yield those places as well.<br /> <br /> You can buy &quot;brush on&quot; or &quot;spray on&quot; food grade paint, but the 'spray on&quot; isn't as easy as it sounds, so I'd say go with the &quot;brush on&quot;.&nbsp; I don't sell my honey commercially, so it's not as big of a concern, but if you are going to sell commercially, you might check with your local Agricultural Extension Agent (a free service in your state) and talk to them about other options.<br /> <br /> Thanks again...and if you want to talk about my 'lessons learned' and hear what I would do differently, you can message me with your email address, and I'll be happy to talk about it.<br /> <br /> Thanks again.<br /> <br />
&nbsp;Ah yes food grade paint, I was thinking about that as an option as well. Thanks for the reply!
i am a bee keeper and have to exract at a friends house due to me not having an extracter so thanks for the idea
Happy to help out anyone thinking about bee keeping! Other alternatives to my build might be sourcing a stainless steel 'liner' from a seller of used restaurant equipment/supplies (maybe a large stainless 'pot' or 'kettle'?) Of course...if your friend let you use their extractor for free...you might ask him/her if it would just be easier to "store their extractor at YOUR house"!!!! ;-) Good luck with you hives, and I hope you have a good honey-flow this year!
well honey isn't a aggressive market so i work hand in hand with the guy who has the extractor and he live just down the road... but i might just build it for a weekend project, again thanks. also have you been hit with ccd this year? just curious
Fortunately, I had no CCD events. My primary problem at the current time is ensuring honey stores are enough in the hives for winter, here in WV. I am currently feeding my bees syrup mix, in an attempt to ensure they make it until the Spring, without depleting their honey supplies in the hives.
exactly whats going on here... in NY, what chemicals do you mix with your syrup? i assume sugar, water and,.... the chemical. this is my fisrt year doing it as a 17 yr old, but my father has done it for over 30yrs, so hes obviously abig help.
I'm actually in WV. I don't mix any chemicals in my syrup...I just bring about a gallon of water to just below boiling, add 2:1 ratio of sugar, and stir until the sugar totally dissolves. Then I feed it using a one gallon ziploc bag.<br/>You can how in the following link:<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.beesource.com/eob/baggie.htm">http://www.beesource.com/eob/baggie.htm</a><br/><br/>Good luck with your bees!<br/>
we add a chemical to the mixture for the mites...
this group<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://beehuman.blogspot.com/2009/03/kirkobeeo-rescues-tree-hive.html">http://beehuman.blogspot.com/2009/03/kirkobeeo-rescues-tree-hive.html</a><br/>thinks no chemicals, use &quot;paint stick&quot; as the middle frame and bees will be stronger, less mites, etc. We have bees now for about 3 years, no CCD, and great honey.<br/>
checked the link, but we have top feeders so we dont have to open the hives up ever time. but thanks for the great link
Couldnt you just run the combs through a wringer that it came with?? Great Idea Wonderful Ible'
This was great. You mentioned that you might do an instructable about how to build a hive and start with bees. I'd like to say that I'd love to see that. Can you build a "complete" hive from scratch? That Q comes from my limited exposure to bee keeping when I was shown the parts that hang down into the hive. They appeared to be manufactured and were basically sheets of some material (plastic or wax?) pressed into a hive shaped pattern. If you make a hive from scratch do you need something like that? Thanks again
Hello Flyerd1: yep...you can certainly build your hives from scratch....and that's what I did...except for the frames (which hang in the boxes). it's just cheaper to buy the frame kits (unassembled) than undertake cutting them yourself. you can certainly make your hive boxes, lids, bases, etc yourself, adn save mucho money. just have a look at the links i've posted in other comments, and you'll find free plans online, with easy to follow instructions. as for 'wax foundation' (the sheets of material in the frames)...you can use it if you choose, or you may choose not to...you can purchase such wax sheeting from common bee suppliers (online) in varying sizes/shapes. after your bees are established, wax sheets are less critical, and you'll use less of them (in most cases). i would encourage anyone considering beekeeping to reach out to the free resources online, and the local agricultural office for your area (state organizations)...it's not as complex as it might seen...and once you get started, you'll enjoy it! good luck!
I don't know if anyone has noticed this or not... if so, I apologize in advance... but it appears that your combs go in perpendicular to the walls of the tub. Could you modify this so that they go in parallel? I went to a beekeeping workshop this week, and they had VERY EXPENSIVE extractor there that was hand operated. The beekerper cuts off the caps from the comb with a hot knife, loads the frame in the extractor with the cut side facing out, and spins it by hand a few dozen times to extract the honey. When one side is empty, remove the frame, cut the caps on the other side, insert it again, and spin. This kept the comb from being damaged, too. There was a metal grid around the frame it rested against while spinning. Watching it in use got me thinking about making one... and in looking, I found yours! This is an awesome 'ible! The only thing I'd modify is the orientation of the holders for the frames. Yours holds 2x as may frames at a time, by the way... another improvement. Well done! And I think my mother-in-law has that exact same "antique" washing machine in her barn... in green. I'm gonna go requisition it tomorrow... :-)
Yep...that's right...my frames are perpendicular. This is called a 'radial' setup. Combs are actually built by the bees with a slight vertical 'slant' to the cells, meaning one end of the cell is tipped 'up' in a sense. So...if you orient the combs correctly, the honey will flow out easier. Both radial, and non-radial extractors work. In a radial extractor, you don't have to stop once you've done one side, and flip over the frame and do it again. In a radial, you just load them one time (saving time). Both are legit methods...I just prefer the radial units. If you browse a bit online, you'll see commercially produced radial extractors that can hold EIGHT frames (that's a lot of rotating mass, and has to have a motor large enough to accommodate that much mass)....but they are out there, if you can afford them. The only problem with using the washing machine is it limits the diameter, and hence, using a radial design, you are limited to shallow supers (in my case). If your machine is larger in diameter, or you develop a better liner, you may be able to spin Illinois supers radially...but perhaps your idea to switch to a non-radial configuration could compensate and allow for the narrow radius. In any event, good luck, and if you have questions, feel free to message me. www.northerntool.com is a good place for cheap bearings and such... Glad to meet another beekeeper, and really happy you found the 'ible' useful!!! ;-) again...if you have questions, do message me!
Congratulations! I can almost taste that honey. Enjoy your new tools!
Great project, and great writeup! Only problem is, how many people have access to honeycomb racks conveniently coated with honey? :) I'd love one of these, if I had a honey-farm. Good stuff
FROLLARD:<br/>Thanks for the compliments....so....the other part of my Instructable to get more people interested in beekeeping...so they would have honeycomb frames to spin in their extractors!<br/><br/>I've only been doing it for a year or so now, and I never thought I'd be a beekeeper...but it's great fun...environmentally helpful...educational...and can be done pretty much anywhere...not just on some rural farm!<br/><br/>So....perhaps my next Instructable should be how to build your own hives, and get started with bees?<br/><br/>Do check out these sites, and consider keeping a hive this summer...you'll need to get started soon....it's almost spring!<br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.beemaster.com/">http://www.beemaster.com/</a><br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.beesource.com/">http://www.beesource.com/</a><br/><br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.gobeekeeping.com/">http://www.gobeekeeping.com/</a><br/><br/>Thanks again!!!<br/>
those are some pretty neat resources. Still not sure the landlord would like a bee hive on my balcony :)
Congratulations on becoming a finalist in the Craftsman Workshop of the Future contest! Good luck!
Thanks! I'm excited about making 'round 3'. My girlfriend dug your wine bottle lights...I suspect I'll end up making that soon... They looked great, and are a great recycle...I look forward to seeing what else you come up with. Thanks again.
Beautiful work! I am a WV beekeeper also so you make me doubly proud! I have pics of a homemade extractor (no where near as fancy as yours, but...) on my site if you want to have a look<br/><a rel="nofollow" href="http://www.myhomeamongthehills.com/honeybees/equipment/">Homemade extractor</a><br/><br/>Anyhow, you get my vote for the contest!<br/>
Hey...thanks for the compliment! Your extractor is great as well...I like the screen basket you built. Very effective. You should post your unit as an INSTRUCTABLE as well...I think the more people see how easily you can build an extractor...people might further their bee experiences. Thanks again!
Simple in design, but cool.
Thanks so much. Yes...I did a very simple design. This things will get used about three times a year or so...and I needed to be able to pull it out, use it, and put it away, with little effort, and not having to 'fix' it every time, or anything. Thanks for having a look, and the positive feedback.
When I was a girl, we used an old milk separator. It worked very well. I like your plan, it is electric. It will go much faster.
Thanks for the comments. My electric unit is pretty quick, but I was careful to not have it go TOO fast, so it doesn't collapse my honeycomb. Using wire in your combs can help...but too much speed would probably result in collapsed comb, that would come out of the frames. I'm sure your milk separator worked well...and was a pretty classic way to do it. Thanks again!
Great instructable. I took a beekeeping course from George Imari (invented the Imari shim). How are the bee hives doing these days? I've noticed a great reduction in domestic bees and fortunately we have a variety of wild bees in our area. Now, how about some of that delicious honey!?~
Even if I weren't a beekeeper, you'd still get my vote! What a challenging entry and I hope you win!
Hey...I hope I win as well! Thanks for reading...and if you aren't keeping bees...you might think about it...an fun, interesting hobby, that can be done pretty much anywhere. Thanks again!
BTW...I'm the owner of this I-BLE...previous post from SCHRISTY05 was actually from me...it just posted under my girlfriend's account...she was on my laptop voting for me, and it either didn't log out, or cached her account. ...but yes...you should definitely consider beekeeping...it's surprisingly interesting!
I totally agree...I've been a backyard apiarist for about 25 years and know for a fact that suburbia will never have too many bee ambassadors! Thanks for promoting this unique hobby :o)
Fantastic Instructable! You gave such great detail, I'm actually going to try to build this one. Thanks for the recommended bee keeping sites too, were getting Bees in the spring so I'll be checking them out. I thank you and My Garden thanks you : )
I'm glad you found the instructable so helpful! If you aren't concerned about the 'washer factor', you could follow the exact same process, and simply use a 55gallon barrel as your liner, and a simple box frame of 1" square tubing, as used in my build. While it won't be as 'antique' in appearance, it would be equally as functional, and would allow you to radially spin brood frames as well (and probably do the build in about 4-5 hours). As also mentioned elsewhere, you might consider checking with local restaurant supply stores selling used equipment....you might find a nice cheap stainless option for a liner at such a place. Thanks again for the compliment!
BTW...I'm the owner of this I-BLE...previous post from SCHRISTY05 was actually from me...it just posted under my girlfriend's account...she was on my laptop voting for me, and it either didn't log out, or cached her account. -jonathan
Nice ible and cool pictures of that motor, gets me thinking ..
Thanks for the compliment. Yes...after using the ceiling fan motor, and based on the fact that it only costs $20 new...I'm also thinking there are some other creative uses for such a cheap, well built motor.
Indeed .. I'm thinking : .. conversion to a brushless outboarder motor using large, curved neodymes in a lathed aluminium shell. .. same idea as the motor but for a windgenerator. .. large scale steppermotor for really huge robotics or cnc applications. .. using it as is for EV-builds. .. the outboarder motor could be made as an in-wheel motor.
Good instructable, even though I won't need a honey extractor anytime soon, very detailed. I also liked how you tried to get bonus point by mentioning every <em>craftsman</em> tools you have.<br/>
Thanks for the positive comments! If you don't need an extractor...that means you're not keeping bees yet! You should think about keeping a hive...it's great fun, and yields a lot more than just tasty honey. ...and you're right...I haven't met a Craftsman tool I didn't like. Thanks again for viewing my first attempt at an Instructable!
This couldn't have appeared at a better time! I just started beekeeping here in Australia, and there is no way in hell I am forking out $600+ for an electric radial extractor...Thankyou very much!!
Thanks for the comments, and good luck with your bees! You might also consider a more 'torque-y' motor solution than I chose if you are going to do this build...my 'backup' motor is off of a rotary ice cream maker....if you do build one, you might consider picking one of those up as a possible alternative (and perhaps better?) drive motor solution to the ceiling fan motor. Good luck and I hope you're knee deep in honey your first year with hives!

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