Step 2: terminology

ok just going to run over some terminology I have learned from the various distiller forums and community's.

Wash or Mash : the mix of sugar / fruit / vegetables / grain, yeast water and nutrients which is fermented to produce your starting alcohol. in beer making its called wort.

SG : Specific gravity, this is measured using a hydrometer using this you can calculator your starting ABV from that you can work out how much you will finally get.

ABV : alcohol by volume, measured using a alcohol meter, it can be calculated using the SG click here for a calculator

The Column : this is the 54mm (2 inch) copper pipe we will be using, you can use other sizes but I will be using this.

The Head : this is the top part of the column which holds the plates and condenser coil, this could be made separately from the main part of the column but for mine I am making them all part of the same piece.

Boka : this is just a short term for Bokakob Still, which comes from the original designer of this method.
<p>Any chance you can post the pictures of the new medication? Hows your booze tastin'?</p>
<p>Hey, I used most of your design and instruction to build a version of this with an offset head. Anyway, I am having trouble understanding how the voltage controller works with my heating element. I see one on amazon that looks like it could be the same as yours: </p><p><strong><a href="http://tinyurl.com/oopep5c" rel="nofollow">http://tinyurl.com/oopep5c</a></strong></p><p><strong>Will that work?</strong><br><br>Question #2: Could it also be possible to use a temperature controller instead? So the temperature controller would turn your element on and off to make sure it stays in that temperature zone needed, example here: </p><p><strong><a href="http://tinyurl.com/ndx9w8c" rel="nofollow">http://tinyurl.com/ndx9w8c</a><br><br>Thanks for all of your help and instructions. I wouldn't have been able to figure out all the connectors and flange sizes on the first try without this instructable!!<br></strong></p><p></p>
<p>ok first question, yes that looks like it would do the trick.</p><p>2nd question, the problem with temperature controllers is they turn off the element until the temp drops below a threshold so you would have irregular flow and find it very hard to control the unit.<br><br>KIS - Keep It Simple ;-)<br><br>You will have to upload some pics of your still</p>
Hey man major question, I just finished my condenser. I used 13' of 1/2&quot; tubing. Now after all of that I wanted to text it so I ran some water through it. My water is getting stuck somewhere in it. It's about as even as I can get it and idk if this is a problem. It takes about a half a water bottle before and water will start to come out and to get the rest of it out I have to physically blow through the tubeing. Will this affect my distilling? I'm worried about shine getting stuck in there and making it gurgle.
well you will have pressurised water running through it so I would test it using mains water not a water bottle. you may have a slight kink in your pipe
Also great Instructable man! I can't def see all the time and work you but into to it. I did t just throw a pot sti together ha. Iv takein my time and have put a lot of work Into mine. I'm using a 2gal pot with a hot plate. And def a lager condensed in need. But that can't be detrimental as long as it's working right lol. I chose to go a small pot because I just don't have the momey to spend now on a keg and all that jazz. But I figured I'd get some practice on the basics even though I could of just waited and have no doubt that I coulda made something like this. I'm going to be using a thumper too but that's more for adding flavor than double distilling.
<p>if your condenser is too small it wont condense all the vapour which could lead to a leak of vapour and possibly a still explosion. also you lose valuable alcohol. and if it doesnt leak it will take much longer.</p>
I meant definitely a larger condenser that I need haha
Well I should of explained better, I didn't make this kind of coil I just know your a knowledgeable guy. I made a standerd condenser. Its like I said 13' of 1/2&quot; tubeing, spooled up to a diameter of about 9&quot;. So my steam from the pot will be comming staright from another pice attached to the lid then connected to the condenser. I'm honestly not sure if I even have a problem like I said. Iv done my best to make the spaces as even as I could between the coils and I accidentally half or less kinked 2 or more parts. But I agin did my best to straight them out and there just about nomal. I was using a water bottle because I figured it would simulate closest to actuall running. I can't find any kinks and from as far as I can tell its all down hill. So I don't understand what could be holding water in there. I'm just worried if when I'm running the shine if it's supposed to be dripping out little by little that it's actually gonna end up just getting condensed wherever the water is getting hung up and then eventually build up until it starts gurgling out. Wich I think will make my cuts a lot harder and be a problem. I really really don't wanna have to make a new coil I already spend a bit on the first bit of copper and had to spend a lot more on the rest of the shit. From as far as I know all the water the I put in the pipe should be comming out and it shouldn't take a whole bottel until it starts pouring. I mean I have to blow through the pipe to get the rest out and it gurgles. Sorry for making this so long and I know home distiller would be a better place to ask but I'm still waiting on there pain in the ass post here before you post anywhere els and what not. And I know you have experience and knowalge
Awesome instructable, I've just built my 1st keg still with the aid of this, only question I have is how did you wire the voltage controller, I have the same one as you have in the picture but no instructions to wire it up<br>
I asked the seller how to wire it and they said you wire it with the natural, you only have 2 points ;-)
I have already manage to blow one up... Electrics are not my strongest skills ? can you give me a bit more detail of the complete wiring please
<p>ok, with the heat sink at the back, the furthest connector connect the neutral from the cable with the plug on the end. the closest connector connect the natural to the element. simple. the live from the cable with the plug goes straight to the element.</p>
Thank you, hopefully this one won't go bang
<p>there is photos ;-) blue is nutral </p>
<p>I was following your instructable, but I have some trouble welding the plate inside of the tube. I'm using a silver based bar (strong welding), but I cant reach the correct temperature with the torch I have, and because of that the welding isn't good. What kind of soldering bar are you using? In the picture appear to be a tin (Sn) based with out lead, but if this is the case, is the Sn safe to use in this equipment?.</p><p>Thanks, and sorry for my bad english</p>
I'm using lead free plumbing solder, common stuff from most hardware stores.
<p>Hello, I have some doubts about the size of the pipe, you said 2&quot; or (54mm), but 2&quot; are not the same of 54mm. 54mm should by 2 1/8&quot; . So, what size of pipe whould I buy?</p>
they are the same, 2&quot; is the inner diameter and 54mm is the outer diameter, it just depends on how your plumbing shop refers to them.
<p>Oh I see, thanks for your reply. I will buy 2&quot; then.</p>
<p>hello!I have question .how you fit the thermometer ? the is no any leakage?</p><p>ant the pressure hole on top ,no leakage ,no vapur?</p>
thermometer, slides in to the hole under the plates and you seal it with a few wraps of PTFE tape.<br><br>no vapour does not come out the top, if your coil is run correctly then the vapour will be cooled and turned back to liquid before it gets there.
One more question <br>Where do the neddle valves go and what's the purpose of these? Are they left slightly open at any given stage during distillation? Can you explain pleAse
you put one on the output, you need to control the flow out so that it refluxes, you should be aiming for about 2 drips a second
Do you think I could combine the two designs, pot still and reflux in one <br>I'm thinking about using the same column and invent some sort of attachment for the condenser in pot still mode?
yes i have described a detachable head where the condenser is, if you make this column really short then make an extension column with an easy flange at each end, and use a tri clamp to connect the 2 that would work, thats what my column now looks like.
<p>Could this type of still be used to make gin?</p>
it could if you run it in pot still mode, with the valve fully open so it doesn't reflux. put the botanicals in a basket inside the column
<p>This is a great instructable. Do you have an update for your update? </p><p>I was also wondering if you have an easy way to remove all of the packing from the column for cleaning? Maybe a copper wire with a hook at one end?</p>
<p>I havnt done much on the new column so no update, other than the scrubbers get really dirty very fast. to get them out I have a grabber tool used for picking up screw, but you could use a stick with a barbed prong on the end.</p>
<p>great instructable love it easy to follow. I only thing I did different was the conection to the keg. I used a 4inch milk fitting on the keg so I could easily clean the boiler then made a cone to a 2 inch fitting and it works well. thanks for your instructable keep up the good work.</p>
<p>Has anyone had issues with a 2&quot; clamp? looks like it should be 2.5&quot; or so.</p>
the clamp size refers to the size of the pipe not the ferrule
<p>Very good, thank you.</p>
<p>For those who don't want to make their own flange. They actually manufacture copper triclover fittings that you can solder directly onto your pipe. They are a tad expensive, but you know it'll work, and you won't destroy a column trying to figure out how to flange properly.</p>
I would love to know where you get them? I looked around and couldn't find anything other than stainless steel
I found some on eBay. I any remember my search term though.
<p>and after saying that I did a search on ebay and found one listed, DOH! but it was &pound;17 plus postage from the US</p>
This a is very intertesing project. Unfortunatly a home still in the states is very illegal but I have another use for this. Can you tell me what the psi or kgpsi is for of these stainless steel kegs is? The idea is to build a dune buggy and use the ambient engine heat to aide in making woody alcohol to fuel it. I know it would take about three kegs for the different stages but what can these vessels take in terms of pressure? Thank you Karl.
<p>This won't work, It takes too long to heat the mash to get the reaction going. You just don't have enough heat from an engine to make it work well. You'd burn 100 times the fuel heating the engine, than you would make.. You'd be better off with a wood gasifier. </p>
What if you use a fresnel lens or a series of large maginifiying lensis and paint the target flat black? set a compass in it and plot ideal sun latitude? This all a theoretical but please let me know your thoughts. Thank's K.
That would get hot enough, maybe too hot, though. It could ignite the alcohol vapor. Also, it would still take a long time to get going. You over estimate how long it would take to heat that much fluid. And you could only run it during the day. Seriously, look into wood gasification.
mine says 4.14 BAR, you would have to heck with the manufacturer in your area for your keg.
Is that barometeric preshure? I don't want to make something I can drink I want to make ethanol that will power a large air cooled engine. ATF (alchol Tobbaco and firearms dousn't have a problem with that.
the process is the same either way, I would assume thats barometeric pressure as I said mine has 4.14 BAR stamped on the side of it.
Than'ks code3 but I am looking for psi.
<p>Just a thought if you are trying to produce high PSI then i would suggest a gas cylinder of some type, they make stainless steel ones.</p>
I have been testing some turbo yeasts. One is the Extreme20 and the other is supper 6... The first trial was messed up in that the guy running it through the still changed methods between batches but both came out with clean flavour. I started another batch of each on the same day and the extreme 20 was fermenting vigorously with in 12 hours, super 6 took 48 hours. In the first week it was mostly fermented out but I left it for a month and a half checking SG every week. <br>The extreme 20 started at a SG of 1.120 and finished at 0.980 which makes it about 22% alcohol. The other started a bit lower and has finished at about 18%. When you have to take the time to boil 5 gallons I want max product for my time. If they both produce the same quality product in the end I will be using the extreme 20 in the future. I will continue testing other yeasts as I find them.
I think you will find with a starting sg of 1.120 and an finish of 0.980 thats 18% use the calc on homedistller.org<br><br>http://homedistiller.org/calcs/alcohol_content<br><br>if you are using a reflux still then i guess you can get away with a turbo yeast as it strips the flavors anyway so you don't have any worry about a yeast flavor.<br><br>but if you are using a pot still for flavored spirits I would say don't use turbos as it will effect the flavor.