What ever side you are on, what follows is how to make a Duel-Worthy Lightsabre. That means, you should be able to wield this sword and bash it against things and other lightsabers with little fear of actually breaking the lightsaber. You may end up breaking other things, but the lightsaber will remain intact.*
Total cost of this project is $60 to $1,000 USD. The wide range in cost all depends of how crazy you get with your design. The cost of lightsaber I built for this instructable is about $160.
The Video:
NOTE 1: This Instructable is very TEXT intensive.
NOTE 2: Most of the parts used in this tutorial came from The Custom Saber Shop (TCSS). I am not affiliated or employed with them. I am just a customer.
* The author of this instructable is not responsible for property damage, personal injury, amputation of limbs, decapitation, and/or death resulting from the building and use of the lightsaber prop. All legal responsibility or resulting civil action due to said property damage, personal injury, amputation of limbs, decapitation, and or death belongs solely to the builder. The author is also not responsible for anyone falling into the Dark Side. The author will also not be held responsible if an agent of the Dark side decides to fry you with lightning coming out of his/her fingertips*
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i'm from France ;)
Mr. Tinkerer, you have just been marked as an assassination target by the great Emperor Palpatine for renunciation of the Dark Side.
jk lol. :)
Total $139.
Use color filters to change the white to what ever color you want. my super bright pure green lightsaber is pumping out around 360 lumens, the white star can put out 600 lumen.
MrTinkerer is right on, we currently don't have a reasonable way to build a lightsaber.
If you'd like, you can check out an article I wrote all about it here: Real Lightsabers
Wiki... http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Plasma_cutting
http://science.discovery.com/videos/sci-fi-science-designing-a-light-sabre.html
-Custom Lightsabers
-Custom Lightsabers
-Custom Lightsabers
Hope I've Been Some Help,
-Custom Lightsabers
kenkou ooku no seimi
good health and long life
Parts list for a ~ $60-$75:
Chrome sink tube $7-$9
1 LED Luxeon or Cree $6-$9
LED lense - $4
assorted PVC couplers and fittings (to hold the blade)$4
push button switch $2
polycarbonate blade $15
diffussion film $6
blade tip $4
battery holder $1
assorted screws $5
I'm sure I forgot something...
Good luck
I would buy a lightsaber with sound from them but they are about $400...
http://www.thecustomsabershop.com/default.aspx
So it works like the one in starwars?
If I write an instructable about how to swing a broom handle around your well furnished living room, I would give the same disclaimer.
Secondly, a Lightsaber is a created work of fiction, given that name with that spelling by its creator, so it is in fact spelled Lightsaber.
Here's the Star Wars wikipedia entry:
http://starwars.wikia.com/wiki/Lightsaber
You are absolutely correct. It's a name. If you want to spell your name with a Q and U and V, it's up to you.
Isn't lightsaber a made up word? Kind of like saying that Nissan made a spelling mistake when they created their luxury brand cars I-N-F-I-N-I-T-I?
By the way, awesome instructable, broseph. I should turn that previous paragraph into an instructable. WOO SUNDAY! :D
Just to give you an ideas of where the electronics come from - Crystal Focus is in UK, Ultraboard is in US, Makoto is in Japan.
These guys are hobbiest who took their electronic skills to build lightsaber specific electronics to sell to us.
but cookies are much better!
besides the light side is all "oh we protect the weak"
dark side says "sc**w the weak"
light side "but they want to be safe and to be treated like little kids that can't fend for themselves"
dark side "if you can't handle the power then give it to me or else"
the dark side is strong in me
And I do admit, my living room does in fact look dark in the video.
There is a saying - "There aint no such thing as a free lunch."
You want bright = the blade will NOT retract/fold/collapse/stow into the hilt.
You want folding/retracting/etc = it will NOT be bright and will look like a toy.
You want lights that scroll up and down = you can NOT duel with it.
You want it to cut through anything = you have to move to a galaxy far, far away.
You can't have it all. You just have to pick what you want and know you WILL be sacrificing something else.
I am a total cheapskate but was planning on making a couple of blades--finding the polycarbonate tubing from mcmaster or grainger was easy, but what is an alternate source to TCSS for the tip and the film? I'm having trouble finding those, do you have any ideas?
Thanks for your help, and again, great instructable!
Tap Platics has the domes made out of acrylic. Works great.
Acrylic Cabochons
They look right, but the page specifies that, "The bottom of the 1/2 cabochons are not flat." Is that alright, or is there a different product I'm missing?
Also, did you have an alternate source for the light diffusing film, or is TCSS the only option?
Thanks again!
If the bottom is rounded, just sand it flat. if the domes have a lip at the bottom, then just let it be and glue it on.
u should make a energy sword insead of a lightsaber
Some tips and tricks on getting the brightest output on from EL, it's not about the input voltage, it is about the OUTPUT voltage and the FREQUENCY that the voltage is alternating at. If you really want your EL wire to be bright, try to get an inverter that can put out as HIGH an AC frequency you can afford.
Example, a 100VAC @ 3KHz will only be half as bright as an inverter with an output of 120VAC @ 6.5KHz..
Also, you will still need to use a diffuser unless you want people to see the bare EL wires inside the blade. Diffuse too much and you get an evenly lit dim blade. Diffuse too little and you get a bright but blotchy blade.
Good luck.
I started making EL lightsabers in 2001. I switched to LED a couple of years later. EL wire has a lifespan far shorter than LED. My first EL blade was half brightness after only 1 year of use. LED takes 50,000 hours before diminishing in brightness. EL is an old technology that is cool, but the future is LED and OLED.
007dna
this is a public service announcement brought to you by basement cat
Heavy duty dueling??? Check out dueling vids by Greytale Novastar in youtube. http://www.youtube.com/user/greytale
Polycarbonate tends to bend to extremes before shattering. Safety glasses are made of polycarbonate, as is bullet proof glass. Safety glasses tend to be 1/16th of an inch thick or less. The blade wall thickness is 1/8th of an inch. The small diameter curve also adds strength.
The blades are practically indestructable.
I had wondered much about the strength... even pondered putting two of different diameters inside each-other, with the light diffusion film in between... but I guess it wouldn't be necessary - thanx again! ^_^
Check out the first picture in the intro page. There is 1 EL Aqua and 1 EL Blue. I have made 6 EL lightsabers in the past (including the two mentioned above). I switched to LED becuase it is a LOT brighter.
is it really that dangerous and hard to make
Hard to make? It could be. It really depends on your design as to how easy or hard this can get.
Dangerous? Well... Not really. It's about as dangerous as swinging around a broom handle in the living room :p
seems kind of hard and confusing
I accidentally fried one Li-Ion battery on the lightsaber last Monday. I took it a apart to make sure the rest of the electronics was OK. It is.
On putting it back together, it took me an hour. Keep in mind this is the lightsaber I assembled. I had hemostats holding wires in place while I used a needle nose pliers to manuever the connectors and plug parts together. While working I looked at my wife and asked her "Why do you let me do nutty things like this?!" She just laughed...
It is tricky and is is confusing and it can get frustrating.
Just step back, take a deep breath and try again when you have cooled off.
lol
Answer: Corbin film is pre-cut when purchased from TCSS. You simply specify blade diameter and wall thickness. Then you select Single wrap(1 layer), Double wrap (2 layers), or Quad wrap (4 layers).
I find double wrap to be just fine.
Thanks for asking, this will help me improve the instructable.
NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOoooooo..
New worldwide epidemic - Epicus Failus - EP1(FA1)
Do u have it
1. You are allegic to cookies.
2. You stub your toe on everything in the middle of the night
3. None of your instructables projects work
4. You accidentally glue your hand to stuff
5. You smell like weed
6. You cant keep focused
7. youstop beng abl 2 tipe s tuff prRLY
Oh noes!!! i hav itt :(
This instructable is complete enough to help you build your own. I will keep adding content as more stuff comes to mind or if the same question keeps coming up.
lol it's freaking amazing. :D
Well I guess I can not finish this till the bug in the Editing Function is fixed. I just added a ton of new contents and pictures and lost it all plus half the instructable. i had to revert back to a version from last night. All the new contect is gone <sigh>....
Coming up: How to wire a Hasbro board, how to wire a MR board, Adding a new step - Enhanced Mid Level.
have u got a cheaper one that i could easily build
thanks