Instructables
loading
loading
Picture of Build a Lightsaber
saber_10_11_12a.jpg
HPIM0802_a.jpg
HPIM0581-1.jpg
HPIM0583-1.jpg
DSCN2708.JPG
saberbuild.jpg
NO NEW LIGHTSABERS FOR ME RIGHT NOW becuase -
UPDATE: I've been super busy taking part in Dallas Red Bull Flugtag. I am part of Team Dworks.
https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Down-to-Earth-Dworks/454064038017699#!/pages/The-Down-to-Earth-Dworks/454064038017699


So you have decided to take the final step to embracing the force. Does your path follow the Light or the Dark side? (I hear the dark side has cookies).

What ever side you are on, what follows is how to make a Duel-Worthy Lightsabre. That means, you should be able to wield this sword and bash it against things and other lightsabers with little fear of actually breaking the lightsaber. You may end up breaking other things, but the lightsaber will remain intact.*

Total cost of this project is $60 to $1,000 USD. The wide range in cost all depends of how crazy you get with your design. The cost of lightsaber I built for this instructable is about $160.

The Video: 



NOTE 1: This Instructable is very TEXT intensive.

NOTE 2: Most of the parts used in this tutorial came from The Custom Saber Shop (TCSS). I am not affiliated or employed with them. I am just a customer.

* The author of this instructable is not responsible for property damage, personal injury, amputation of limbs, decapitation, and/or death resulting from the building and use of the lightsaber prop. All legal responsibility or resulting civil action due to said property damage, personal injury, amputation of limbs, decapitation, and or death belongs solely to the builder. The author is also not responsible for anyone falling into the Dark Side. The author will also not be held responsible if an agent of the Dark side decides to fry you with lightning coming out of his/her fingertips*
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up

Step 1: Gallery - My Past Creations

Picture of Gallery - My Past Creations
Christmas_2005_collection2.jpg
Christmas_2005_collection.jpg
saber_10_11_12a.jpg
snap0001.jpg
saber8_d.jpg
saber9_h.jpg
copperhilt.jpg
doubleEL01.jpg
myhilt.jpg
nautilus01.jpg
nautilus03.jpg
nautilus06.jpg
Picture117.jpg
saberIgnited.jpg
These were my past creations and experiments.
I used to own a 7x12 metal lathe. 
I sold the lathe
1-40 of 286Next »

hi man nice i love it but i dont get the LED where to get and what is that can u help me with that LED cuz i dont know where to get them so can u tell which one did u use for the red colour lightsaber LED and from where did u get it

Awesome instructable! I wonder, can this be done to make a curved-hilt lightsaber..
RMP20031 month ago

OH MY GOSH THAT IS THE COOLEST LIGHTSABER EVER! YOU SHOULD PUT THOSE IN STORES! AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!

MrTinkerer (author)  RMP20031 month ago

Thanks.

You're welcome. I was serious about the store thing, but now I'm not so sure the screaming was necessary.... :)

JiggsUp28 days ago

This sure has been fun! I completed the outside of my saber. Im happy with the over all design, but I want to install a push button switch instead of the toggle I currently have installed. The current switch just gets in the way too much and its not as esthetically pleasing as Id like. I dont have any of the electronics installed yet. I have a 700mA buckpuck. Will that work with one of those fancy push button switches that have a LED ring that lights up on it? Or does the fact that the button has a built in LED create problems? Ive uploaded a pic of the type of switch Im talking about. Look forward to your response :)

DSC_1771.jpg51JZ1UfQRVL._SL1000_.jpg
MrTinkerer (author)  JiggsUp28 days ago

That is a beautiful hilt. WOW!!! Great craftsmanship. I love the brass and chrome combo.

I have the same push button switches. I am working on a hilt where the button is mounted in the pommel. Kind of like those flashlights where you press a button on the bottom end to turn it on.

The LED ring on the switch may have to be wired in on a parallel circuit to the buck. Just put a resistor on it appropriate to your voltage source.

MatthewS171 month ago

This is very helpful, but I am curious as to what LED you used in the crystal chamber? I would also love to see a picture layout or diagram of how all of that was powered together along with the crystal chamber.

Also, how did you fry the battery?

Luziviech12 months ago

hey, dude,
(can't get rid off this ible, one of my faves for years now) - Any recommendations for lenghts of hilt and blade for a double-bladed light-sabre?

MrTinkerer (author)  Luziviech1 month ago

Hey man, You are too kind. Thank you for chiming in and helping people out in here with this instructable. Sorry I have been away.

no prob dude. My actual problem with the lightsaber is findin someone who can drill me some inch-fitting into an alu-tube. But if i ever get it managed, i'll let you know.
MrTinkerer (author)  Luziviech1 month ago

can you send me a picture of what you need done? I'm not sure I understand.

SantaB10 months ago

I have two soundboards currently. I have one from a 1995 Luke Skywalker and one from a 2008? Obi-wan (actually the exact one in your picture). They worked great when inside the hilts. They even worked when I got the cases half way off. But as soon as I got the boards, and other parts, out and wired to a AA battery holder, neither work.

I am really only after the sound and could care less about the light (which both wired to a standard flash light bulb socket, no LEDs in these cheapy things). Seeing this and other Forum posts about this shows me I am wiring the correct wires to the battery holder. Ideas why the boards are dead now and what I can test?

MrTinkerer (author)  SantaB1 month ago

Either something shorted out or you over-powered it. I killed a Hasbro board by overpowering it. The either put a resistor between your battery and your sound board or buy a voltage regulator that will drop the voltage down to 5 volts. Also, route the electricity going to your LED parallel to your sound board. Do not connect your LED in series with your sound board. The LED draws too much current and can overload the sound board.

Roland S7 months ago

where do you buy the crystals

MrTinkerer (author)  Roland S1 month ago

ebay. i purchased a bunch of quartz with "points". people sell them in lots. You want to get a bunch because out of a handful only several are the corect size and shape.

Roland S4 months ago

I am getting a lathe and what kind of metal did you use for the hilt.

MrTinkerer (author)  Roland S1 month ago

Sorry for late reply. 3 feet (36 inches) was ideal for me.

MrTinkerer (author) 1 month ago

Hi everyone. Sorry, i have been away. Life has been very hectic. I'll try to check in more.

I need a ultrasound2.5 pcb
jntinker5 months ago

sorry a little late to the party but where did you get the blade end cap? I cant find it any where.

Roland S jntinker4 months ago

I found one on The Custom Saber Shop. What size do you need?

gunman157 months ago

YES! I CAN NOW DESTROY THE REPUBLIC!!! XD

I wish It was Not that much Money Though Its cool But........Expensive

ldilonardo iii10 months ago

How exactly did you wire the soundboard and LEDs without overpowering the soundboard? It was slightly unclear in the instruction. I have a MR that I'm converting and I want to keep the soundboard but I'm using the same set up as you, Tri-Rebel LEDs.

xcuddles1 year ago

I'm 100% not savy with lights and the electric part of this! Is there anyway to commission one? A simple one without sound? There's an anime that uses light saber esq weapons, but I'm more of a wood worker!!

Luziviech xcuddles12 months ago

It's all in the ible yet; Steps 9-10. All you need is a star platine with hi-power leds with a big output, a lense with ~15° angle, a switch, that buckpuck-transformator and sum batteries. The LEDs are industrial soldered stuff, so all you need to do is to wire (solder) the rest of the components. And soldering in the end is nothin more than heatin up sum connection joints and glueing with tin. Check youtube, if you still got probs.

I don't have any real exp with electronics either, though i know to build a circuit with a battery, bulb and switch (and there are sum pretty easy-to-understand maths for A and V). It's pretty simple in the end. Just search the net for "led" in comination with "star" and you'll find sum shops who provide these platines and normally also got fitting lenses. I think mine were bout ~20€ for three of these packs.

xcuddles Luziviech12 months ago

Yes, these instructions are great, but I honestly don't trust myself very much. I may be able to get some help from my uncle to make it, but long story short, I'd prefer not to. If push came to shove, I could probably make one, even if it wasn't entire correct, but I'd prefer to pay+tip anyone who has experience and knows what they are doing.

MrTinkerer (author)  xcuddles12 months ago

Life has me super busy, but I sent you a message...

If you are super busy, I don't want to be any trouble! I can try to manage it! I'm not completely incompitent with building things , I just don't trust myself very much!

xana1 year ago
anyone consider using this one?

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/high-powered/1-watt-rgb-led-130-degree-viewing-angle-43-lumens/637/1922/
Luziviech xana1 year ago

i dunno. But the output dun seem too much: 45lm - and if don't get it wrong, then there's only one led on the star, tho a RGB; color changing one. I'm planning to make contact staff/juggling tool according to this ible and i bought 3 of these plus prism-adapters: http://www.led-tech.de/de/High-Power-LEDs-Cree/CREE-Module/4-x-CREE-XP-G-R5-auf-23mm-Star-Platine-LT-1852_120_117.html

i mean, check this ible for what MrTinkerer took:

Each Rebel I think puts out 130 lumen at 700 mAmp

wdash1 year ago

where did you get those awesome goggles?!

tkillick1 year ago
can you duel with it? now that would be cool.
MrTinkerer (author)  tkillick1 year ago
Yes, yes I can duel with it. The blade is 1 inch outer diameter with a .75 inch inner diameter polycarbonate. That is 1/8 inch wall polycarbonate and has a lot of mass. Dueling against a one inch wood dowel, i am sure I can break the wood dowel with my lightsaber.
Created two designs at tcss if you would like to see pics reply
i am confused, the sabers shown were made by you with a metal lathe, if i can make some of the pieces on the custom saber shop with a lathe that would be awesome!
ok how do you make the crystal chamber because i cant find out how you did it
MrTinkerer (author)  heliophobiant1 year ago
I took apart a dead hard drive and a dead CD drive. I took the center motor of the CD drive and stacked metal on top to make a pillar to hold the crystal. I found a clear tube big enough to contain the pillar and crystal. The crysal chamber is really a collection of broken junk (motors, drives, bits of wire) glued together. The only new thing in it is the piece of quartz in the middle.
1-40 of 286Next »